Frozen Lines, what breaks first? Cost?

[Larry-NC]

Originally Posted by TitanMike

Can't speak for others but that's where I connect the air line from my compressor.

If the RV is equipped with an Antifreeze Port then it could be easily overlooked.

The first couple of years that I used RV antifreeze, I didn't bleed from the fresh water check valve. Fortunately there was no damage.

(The next year I blew antifreeze all over my chest. That was when I learned to step aside when bleeding it.)

The only freeze damage we've had so far was:

• Plumbing between gray water tank and valve (2 places)
• Toilet valve when the toilet was actually out of the trailer and sitting on my deck. (I noticed the crack in the spring and replaced the valve before re-installing the toilet. But I did see heartbreaking damage to the trailer across from ours due to a cracked toilet valve. The water runs in a sheet along the outside of the tubing into the subfloor. You can't see it until the floor heaves or drops out or both.)

[PenJoe]

Originally Posted by DougW

As long as you ran the water pump for a few moments to get the water out of the pump and opened every spigot including the toilet while the air pressure was on you should be fine. It seems normally the most vulnerable part is the toilet valve. It is usually the plastic connectors and elbows that will break second. The PEX lines can freeze up for a little while without damage as long as they don’t get extremely cold.

Since you blew the lines out I think you will be ok.

X2, we have had campers since the early 60's when there was no potable water antifreeze. Never, in all those years did we damage a water connected device. Yes, we always had concerns even in the last few years when we started using RV antifreeze, but the worry was for naught.

[Grouch1]

Originally Posted by kayan121110

So I emptied and blew out my lines but there was not any rv antifreeze at the 10 different stores I went to. It ended up getting 10 degrees colder here than predicted. What is the possible damage? What breaks first and what are the costs associated with. I am so worried about my little baby, 172 RPod.

check your 1 way valve I use to do that and it froze up at my outside shower.

[Grouch1]

Check your outside shower one way valve mine froze just blowing out the lines also check the foot peddle at the toilet it can freeze to mine did I found out when I went camping in the spring.

[TitanMike]

Originally Posted by Larry-NC

The first couple of years that I used RV antifreeze, I didn't bleed from the fresh water check valve. Fortunately there was no damage.

(The next year I blew antifreeze all over my chest. That was when I learned to step aside when bleeding it.)

The only freeze damage we've had so far was:

• Plumbing between gray water tank and valve (2 places)
• Toilet valve when the toilet was actually out of the trailer and sitting on my deck. (I noticed the crack in the spring and replaced the valve before re-installing the toilet. But I did see heartbreaking damage to the trailer across from ours due to a cracked toilet valve. The water runs in a sheet along the outside of the tubing into the subfloor. You can't see it until the floor heaves or drops out or both.)

I've made it a habit for years to inspect the usual suspects for winter freeze damage before filling the system with water. Air pressure as mentioned earlier When filled with water and pressurized I then use a dry finger, touching underneath fittings and hose/pipe connected. You may not see water if it forms a film but you darn sure see it on your finger when you pull it back from the place you checked.

As a boondocker I'd hear the water pump cycling regularly if I had a leak.

[Nomore9-5]

Originally Posted by TitanMike

To add, when the weather improves, and it's time to add water, i'd strongly recommend closing all the valves and low point drains then pressurize water system to 50 psi.

Compressor should build pressure then shut off.

Go around and listen for leaking air.

Air leaks are less messy than water leaks. Still have to repair but no need to mop up too[emoji16]

Great idea. For a lot of us the only way we'd know there's an issue is when we introduce water into the system the first time we go camping after winter is over. I was also thinking if after the compressor first shuts off and you don't hear any leaking air but it restarts again it's going to alert you the leak is in a spot you may have missed hearing

[PenJoe]

Originally Posted by Nomore9-5

Great idea. For a lot of us the only way we'd know there's an issue is when we introduce water into the system the first time we go camping after winter is over. I was also thinking if after the compressor first shuts off and you don't hear any leaking air but it restarts again it's going to alert you the leak is in a spot you may have missed hearing

A compressor can have a minor leak of its own causing it to start. The best gauge is if the system itself maintains pressure. That would be checked with a pressure gauge. Unless it is a pin leak, the pressure should drop fairly quickly.

[Larry-NC]

Originally Posted by PenJoe

A compressor can have a minor leak of its own causing it to start. The best gauge is if the system itself maintains pressure. That would be checked with a pressure gauge. Unless it is a pin leak, the pressure should drop fairly quickly.

In the spring, before your first camping trip, you could simply put some water (and maybe bleach) in the fresh water tank and flush the lines from there. Leave the pump on and hang out in the trailer for an hour. If you don't hear the water pump run again, there must be no leaks.

The problem with putting a tire gage on the Schrader connector you've placed on the fresh water inlet is that every time you put the gauge on you lose some pressure. You would have to permanently attach the gauge for a reliable reading--or maybe use a Y-connector.

[Nomore9-5]

Originally Posted by PenJoe

A compressor can have a minor leak of its own causing it to start. The best gauge is if the system itself maintains pressure. That would be checked with a pressure gauge. Unless it is a pin leak, the pressure should drop fairly quickly.

Good point - I'm just wondering now what you'd use to check system pressure . You'd need to be able to keep the system pressurized while at the same time checking to see if it's holding. Would a tire inflator with a needle or digital gauge modified with a garden hose adapter ( that you normally use for blowing water out ) work. They generally tell you what tire pressure is when inflating so same idea ?

[TitanMike]

Originally Posted by Nomore9-5

Good point - I'm just wondering now what you'd use to check system pressure . You'd need to be able to keep the system pressurized while at the same time checking to see if it's holding. Would a tire inflator with a needle or digital gauge modified with a garden hose adapter ( that you normally use for blowing water out ) work. They generally tell you what tire pressure is when inflating so same idea ?

You can buy a male garden hose fitting that will fit onto a standard NPT pipe threaded fitting at Home depot. Add a Tee, valve, air gauge to tee, and air fitting to the valve.

Install the tee to the water inlet and air to the fitting. Open valve and pressurize the system. Close valve and observe the gauge. If it drops quickly something is broken. If it takes a long time it may just be a loose filter housing or connection at the water inlet. Check, re-pressurize and watch again.

This is a good time to check all the clamps and fittings for tight. Screw in fittings can be checked with soapy water too.

How much effort that goes into this depends on how little water you want to see later outside of the sink, shower, or in toilet.

[PenJoe]

Originally Posted by Nomore9-5

Good point - I'm just wondering now what you'd use to check system pressure . You'd need to be able to keep the system pressurized while at the same time checking to see if it's holding. Would a tire inflator with a needle or digital gauge modified with a garden hose adapter ( that you normally use for blowing water out ) work. They generally tell you what tire pressure is when inflating so same idea ?

With a pressure gauge at the hose fitting and the system charged with air, our compressor has a line shutoff. The compressor can not detect the fall in pressure and will not start. If the air hose from the compressor is not leaking (soapy water test), the RV system fall in pressure would indicate a leak. The pressure may fall very rapidly.

Just a note. If not properly winterized, there may be more than one leak.

[Nomore9-5]

Originally Posted by TitanMike

You can buy a male garden hose fitting that will fit onto a standard NPT pipe threaded fitting at Home depot. Add a Tee, valve, air gauge to tee, and air fitting to the valve.



Install the tee to the water inlet and air to the fitting. Open valve and pressurize the system. Close valve and observe the gauge. If it drops quickly something is broken. If it takes a long time it may just be a loose filter housing or connection at the water inlet. Check, re-pressurize and watch again.



This is a good time to check all the clamps and fittings for tight. Screw in fittings can be checked with soapy water too.



How much effort that goes into this depends on how little water you want to see later outside of the sink, shower, or in toilet.

Ok got it. I'll put something like that together in the spring

[Brother Les]

you will be fine.

[5picker]

Originally Posted by TitanMike

You can buy a male garden hose fitting that will fit onto a standard NPT pipe threaded fitting at Home depot. Add a Tee, valve, air gauge to tee, and air fitting to the valve.

Install the tee to the water inlet and air to the fitting. Open valve and pressurize the system. Close valve and observe the gauge. If it drops quickly something is broken. If it takes a long time it may just be a loose filter housing or connection at the water inlet. Check, re-pressurize and watch again.

This is a good time to check all the clamps and fittings for tight. Screw in fittings can be checked with soapy water too.

How much effort that goes into this depends on how little water you want to see later outside of the sink, shower, or in toilet.

Originally Posted by Nomore9-5

Ok got it. I'll put something like that together in the spring

Yep... something like what I have screwed to my low point drain line.

[JLA956]

We are in North Texas and right now we're having record low temps and windchill. Earlier this week I winterized our trailer by opening all the faucets, drain lines, etc. and blowing them out with air. I then ran the water pump for about 15 to 20 seconds a couple of times to get any water out of it, then pumped the toilet lever several times while blowing air, and then took the anode rod out of the water heater and drained it good. Afterwards, I put RV antifreeze in all the sink drains, shower drains, and toilet, but not in any of the fresh water lines.

However, it's supposed to get down to below zero both tonight and tomorrow night with windchill temps around 20° below. We lost all power at our house yesterday, and since they don't know when it will be back on we have moved into the trailer. Before the cold spell hit I turned on the heat in the trailer and it's been about 68-70 degrees inside and we plan to keep it that way until it warms up on Friday or Saturday. Having a generator sure did come in handy, along with a 60# propane tank.

I have a philosophy of "hope for the best but plan for the worse" so I'm going to assume that something(s) has probably frozen and broken. This is our first TT so I would like some suggestions as to how and what should I check for when we do get to the Spring and put water back into it. I have read several of the above posts where people shared that the toilet water valve is the primary thing that seems to break so I would like to know how to check for that. Also for all the other places and items that I need to be aware of. I sure don't want to have a leak and it go undetected and then the floor rots and falls through like was mentioned on one of the above posts.

Thanks in advance for everyones's help as this is something that I will need to do every year when winter ends.

[DougW]

Originally Posted by JLA956

I have a philosophy of "hope for the best but plan for the worse" so I'm going to assume that something(s) has probably frozen and broken. This is our first TT so I would like some suggestions as to how and what should I check for when we do get to the Spring and put water back into it. I have read several of the above posts where people shared that the toilet water valve is the primary thing that seems to break so I would like to know how to check for that. Also for all the other places and items that I need to be aware of. I sure don't want to have a leak and it go undetected and then the floor rots and falls through like was mentioned on one of the above posts.

Thanks in advance for everyones's help as this is something that I will need to do every year when winter ends.

The best suggestion I have seen is to hook up your air compressor, close all faucets and low point drains, put about 30psi on the system and see if it hold the air pressure. If it holds there’s no leaks. If the pressure drops you have a leak and need to look, listen, and feel for where it is leaking.

[txredfish]

I currently live in south TX near Corpus Christi. It was down to 17 first night and 50 in our house. Below freezing for a few days. About a month ago, I did winterize my rv trailer. I blew out lines one at a time and then went back over a second time. I poured rv antifreeze in all traps. I lived in Indiana for about 10 years where it gets below zero many times. I never had a problem blowing lines. But I have not checked my current trailer in TX. I will probably go over it tomorrow and put in water in a couple of weeks to check for leaks. But for now playing it safe just in case. But I think freezing temps are over for us.

[Underdog]

Another winterizing tip I didn't see here ..... Don't leave an empty glass filter bowl screwed on. Any water trapped between the glass threads can expand and crack off the threaded top of the bowl. It happened to me.

[Rainrider22]

Originally Posted by kayan121110

So I emptied and blew out my lines but there was not any rv antifreeze at the 10 different stores I went to. It ended up getting 10 degrees colder here than predicted. What is the possible damage? What breaks first and what are the costs associated with. I am so worried about my little baby, 172 RPod.

You should be ok if you opened your low point drains as well. Everyone always forgets their
Sink Pee Traps though...You want to get some rv antifreeze in there..

[chaps2018]

In addition to the black flush valve, I also configure the valves on the docking station to blow the Fresh Water Tank fill line.

I put a temperature logger in this go around in South Texas. I wanted to see what the 5er saw. The lowest it got was 17deg in the basement when the temp was 7deg outside.

Pretty cool little device. I will use it going forward to determine when I need to run the furnace to keep the underbelly from freezing. (Otherwise we rely on fireplace and one space heater)

Govee Smart Hygrometer, Wireless Thermometer, Mini Bluetooth Humidity Sensor with Notification Alert, Data Storage and Export, 328 Feet Connecting Range
by Govee US
Learn more: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07R586J37...ing=UTF8&psc=1