FYI Install water pressure regulator on trailer end of hose, not source end

[reevesfamily]

Originally Posted by BrandonSmith

Increase your water pressure inside your trailer by installing your water pressure regulator on the trailer end of your hose instead of at the source.

You lose water pressure as water passes through the hose, so it makes sense to install the regulator on the trailer end of the hose, so you get the maximum pressure inside the trailer - so you're not losing valuable pressure through the length of hose. That is all - hope it helps someone.

Been hooking up my Valterra directly to the pedestal for years. I set it at 55lbs. No issues and no lack of water pressure or leaks. And no busted water hoses. We always cut the pedestal off when we leave camp for any reason.

[NJKris]

I have mine set at 50. If anything starts to leak, you can dial it back a bit. I like water pressure when showering.

[NJKris]

Originally Posted by Reeves

Been hooking up my Valterra directly to the pedestal for years. I set it at 55lbs. No issues and no lack of water pressure or leaks. And no busted water hoses. We always cut the pedestal off when we leave camp for any reason.

I try to remember to to do that!

[TitanMike]

RVIA standard for water system testing at factory I believe is 85 PSI minimum.

Stock water pumps are set at pump factory for 55 PSI shutoff.

Any pressure setting in the 50-55 PSI range will be fine.

Much lower than 40 PSI will cause low flow at faucets.

[Baumeister]

We learned long ago to always, always control what you can as far upstream as you can. So on the pedestal whenever possible, sometimes with a 3' hose to 'protect' the regulator from getting knocked about.
The water pressure variability at campsites during a stay is sometimes quite extreme. They require a minimum pressure when they're at full capacity, but most that I've encountered don't regulate for low-use times, so many spigots are like a fire hydrant off-season. They'd certainly save on maintenance/repair and water bills a lot if they did.
At home, washing machine and fridge water supply hoses are probably the leading cause of water damage insurance claims in the home. Replacing every 5 years is like cheap insurance. The steel-braided ones(like faucet/toilet supply hoses) aren't always perfect but definitely an improvement. Some municipalities don't even allow the plastic/rubber ones any more.

[SeaDog]

I run mine at 40

[Jfkmk]

Originally Posted by NXR

On our wedding anniversary we came home to rain in the basement, from an 8 year-old washer gray-colored hose. A pinhole had developed at the bend and it was squirting a stream of water about ten feet across the basement. We were only gone a few hours but wow, what a mess it made.

Now it's steel-jacketed water lines every five years.

Ray

Our washer is on the main living level of the house, not in the basement. As bad as it would be to have such a leak in the basement, it would be much worse on the main floor of the house. Not only do we have the steel braided hoses, but we shut off the water to the machine every time we’re done using it.

[paulyboy]

My regulator is at the Trailer end, hoses are cheaper than adjustable regulators that get stolen.

[paulyboy]

Yes you get what you pay for

[BigHomey]

Originally Posted by NJKris

I attach it right past the blue torpedo filter, don't want to crud up the regulator. I've never had the blue filter rupture yet.

It can happen. We forgot to turn off the water when we left the campsite to go to the beach. Came back to a shower at the water pedestal. The blue filter had separated where the threaded input connects to the body of the filter. Started using the regulator before the filter after that.

AL

[5picker]

Originally Posted by paulyboy

My regulator is at the Trailer end, hoses are cheaper than adjustable regulators that get stolen.

I just wonder how many get stolen?

[frankraney]

Originally Posted by NJKris

Or get a decent one with adjustable pressure setting, they are not that much, and now your hose/inline filter is protected from bursting too.

[NXR]

Originally Posted by TitanMike

RVIA standard for water system testing at factory I believe is 85 PSI minimum.

Stock water pumps are set at pump factory for 55 PSI shutoff.

Any pressure setting in the 50-55 PSI range will be fine.

Much lower than 40 PSI will cause low flow at faucets.

Exactly! Look up what your water pump delivers and set your regulator similarly.

Our SHURFLO 4008 turns ON when the pressure drops to 40 PSI and turns OFF at 55 PSI, -/- 2 PSI. I set my regulator to about 60 PSI.

If it's good enough for the water pump it's good enough for City Water.

Ray

[frankraney]

Originally Posted by BrandonSmith

Increase your water pressure inside your trailer by installing your water pressure regulator on the trailer end of your hose instead of at the source.

You lose water pressure as water passes through the hose, so it makes sense to install the regulator on the trailer end of the hose, so you get the maximum pressure inside the trailer - so you're not losing valuable pressure through the length of hose. That is all - hope it helps someone.

Fwiw

Flow stays the same in the hose, but pressure increases in the RV (smaller hose = more pressure. So in fact, if you put the regulator at the faucet, set it at 25psi, and the pressure will increase with the smaller house size in the trailer, because of smaller house, and increases flow rate. (Take a3/4" house, lot of water at a given pressure, say 50 psi) put your finger over the end, you will get a higher pressure. So, what happens with your RV is the pressure increases, same as putting your finger over the house. So, put the regulator at the faucet and set the pressure a little lower than RV Max, and it will raise to where you want it in the trailer.


I like my RV is at about 30 psi (I don't want the crimp fittings to leak, been there had that happen). So I at my regulator at 25-30 psi and the RV will be a little higher.

The difference in location of the regulator..... At faucet limits the pressure in the hose also. At the RV, only the RV is protected against high pressure.

FYI....


https://hy-techroofdrains.com/water-flow-through-a-pipe/



https://www.pipingmart.com/blog/other/does-increasing-pipe-size-increase-water-pressure/#:~:text=The%20pipe%20size%20and%20water,hence%20t he%20water%20pressure%20decreases.

[NavyLCDR]

Originally Posted by paulyboy

My regulator is at the Trailer end, hoses are cheaper than adjustable regulators that get stolen.

If someone is going to steal it, what different does it make if it is on the side of the trailer, or on the water spigot 6 feet away? And the regulator is $16.50 more than the hose. But what is the cost when the weight of the regulator with the hose attached to it snaps off the plastic city water connection on the side of the trailer?

[chriscowles]

Originally Posted by Mr. Dan

... on a forum where a man's character is judged by whether he uses 1- or 2-ply toilet paper.

You use toilet paper?

[NavyLCDR]

Originally Posted by frankraney

Fwiw

Flow stays the same in the hose, but pressure increases in the RV (smaller hose = more pressure. So in fact, if you put the regulator at the faucet, set it at 25psi, and the pressure will increase with the smaller house size in the trailer, because of smaller house, and increases flow rate. (Take a3/4" house, lot of water at a given pressure, say 50 psi) put your finger over the end, you will get a higher pressure. So, what happens with your RV is the pressure increases, same as putting your finger over the house. So, put the regulator at the faucet and set the pressure a little lower than RV Max, and it will raise to where you want it in the trailer.


I like my RV is at about 30 psi (I don't want the crimp fittings to leak, been there had that happen). So I at my regulator at 25-30 psi and the RV will be a little higher.

The difference in location of the regulator..... At faucet limits the pressure in the hose also. At the RV, only the RV is protected against high pressure.

FYI....


https://hy-techroofdrains.com/water-...hrough-a-pipe/



https://www.pipingmart.com/blog/othe...re%20decreases.

Most of what you posted is incorrect. When water is moving through a pipe, at a specific mass flow rate, when the pipe size is decreased, the velocity of the water increases, and the pressure decreases. Starting at about 4:00 minutes of this video (by a real physicist):

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fJefjG3xhW0

Let's say you have a 3/4" water supply hose and 1/2" pex in your trailer. With all faucets turned off, the pressure will be uniform throughout the whole system and velocity will be zero. As you open a faucet, the velocity of water flowing through the 1/2" plex will increase at a faster rate than the velocity in the 3/4" water supply increases - 1/2" higher velocity than 3/4". However, the pressure in the 1/2" pex will decrease at a faster rate than the pressure in the 3/4" hose - LOWER pressure in the 1/2" pex than in the 3/4" hose.

https://www.khanacademy.org/science/...ullis-equation

Quote: "So within a horizontal water pipe that changes diameter, regions where the water is moving fast will be under less pressure than regions where the water is moving slow. This sounds counterintuitive to many people since people associate high speeds with high pressures. But, we'll show in the next section that this is really just another way of saying that water will speed up if there's more pressure behind it than in front of it. In the section below we'll derive Bernoulli's principle, show more precisely what it says, and hopefully make it seem a little less mysterious.
How can you derive Bernoulli's principle?
Incompressible fluids have to speed up when they reach a narrow constricted section in order to maintain a constant volume flow rate."

[garywilson]

Originally Posted by 5picker

X2

I've seen non-protected water hoses swell and burst from the hose getting soft in summer sun.

It would be foolish to have a pressure regulator anywhere but the pedestal/supply source.

Shucks... I've seen a non-protected trailer spare tire swell and burst from the tire getting soft in summer sun. It was kinda old.

[Mike134]

who woulda thought this would make 78 posts?

We need spring to arrive and get us off the computer

[Mr. Dan]

Originally Posted by NavyLCDR

If someone is going to steal it, what different does it make if it is on the side of the trailer, or on the water spigot 6 feet away? And the regulator is $16.50 more than the hose. But what is the cost when the weight of the regulator with the hose attached to it snaps off the plastic city water connection on the side of the trailer?

I see that in your mind, there can only be one (1) configuration for this and you described it in your question. However, my filter and adjustable regular are out of sight in my utility/water compartment (can be locked with a NON CH751 key but I don't) and are hanging from the interior wall on a brass 90° elbow that doesn't torque the plastic connection.


To answer the question of another member:
I have had zero (0) water pressure regulators stolen.
I have had zero (0) water hoses burst under the Texas (or any other) sun.
One can see (possibly) in my signature that we are out in our trailer quite often.