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Old 05-18-2013, 02:57 PM   #1
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Going to dewinterize.

Do you all dewinterize at a campground on the first trip or at home?
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Old 05-18-2013, 03:01 PM   #2
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my goodness, at home, not at a campground!
you need to have everything flushed out and sanitized before you leave.

plus, what if something was done wrong or you need tech assistance.
many people have the dealer winterize and have no clue how to unwinterize. so they end up not have any hot water and sure enough, they had the bypass valve in the wrong position.
can't even count how many posts we've had here, with that situation.
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Old 05-18-2013, 04:45 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Grey9712 View Post
Do you all dewinterize at a campground on the first trip or at home?
I agree with Dan to do the first EVER dewinterizing (summarize?) at home if this is the first time with this trailer. Especially if its your first time ever with any trailer.

This is a topic that comes up frequently with campers new to RVing. It happens even to those of us who know how to do it. This year, I found two leaks (one with the o-ring on my filter and one at the outdoor shower) and I might have had some challenges fixing that at a remote CG. Its not the end of the world if it happens though and you just deal with it.

But, if you have done this before, know what you are doing, were the one to winterize in the first place and are just asking if its convenient to flush at a dump station than go ahead and do that. I've done that before, too.

Hope this helps you.

Happy camping.
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Old 05-18-2013, 05:02 PM   #4
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Always de-winterize at home. There seems to be at least some springtime maintenance needed after the long winter's nap. The first trip out is usually the 'shakedown' cruise to make sure all works as intended. Enjoy! It ends up being second nature and a ritual that gets easier with each new season.
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Old 05-19-2013, 07:31 AM   #5
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How I dewinterize

My tips:

At Home - At least the first time for all the reasons stated.

MAKE SURE - BLACK OUTSIDE ELECTRIC SWITCH ON THE WATER HEATER IS OFF BEFORE YOU PLUG INTO POWER. (see photos for location)

LEAVE the water heater winterizing valve(s) in "winterize"

Remove and inspect Anode - If properly winterized, water heater is EMPTY.
If anode is good (see graphic and photo) re-install with Teflon tape or Teflon pipe dope.

My "dewinterizing" order:

1) Bucket under low point drains.

2) Open Low point drains.

3) Open all Faucets; including outside and inside shower

4) Hold toilet flush valve open for about 30 seconds.

5) When all RV antifreeze (Pink) has drained out; CLOSE all Faucets; PUT CAPS BACK ON LOW POINT DRAINS.

6) OPEN fresh water drain cock and drain out any old water in the fresh tank.

7) Close fresh water drain cock.

8) Pour 3/4 cup of Bleach (1/4 cup per 15 gallons of tank capacity) using a funnel into the (turned off) water hose and put a (closed) nozzle or shutoff valve on the end. (OLD CLOTHES, RUBBER GLOVES, GOGGLES!)

9) Connect or place the end of the hose into the fresh water fill port and turn on water. OPEN the nozzle or shutoff valve and make sure all water gets into tank as the first blast will be all bleach. FILL the fresh water tank.

10) CLOSE the shutoff valve and connect hose to city water port ("burp" the shutoff valve for one second to flush out city water check valve; then TURN OFF AND REMOVE).

11) Turn on Fresh Water pump and make sure it shuts off (should only take 2 minutes unless you have a water or air leak; or your water heater bypass valves are set wrong). If you have a leak, shut off pump and look for water in the strainer bowl. If the bowl is empty you have a loose fitting in the suction line; if full you have something open.

12) When pump shuts off, go to farthest faucet from pump and open the hot and cold water valves (individually) until you smell strong chlorine in the water. Turn off and repeat until all faucets and inside and outside shower heads have been done.

13) Place water heater valves in "NORMAL" (pump might come on) and go outside and open the pressure relief valve by opening the lever (see photo).

14) When water streams out and you smell chlorine; snap valve closed and make sure there is no leakage from valve or anode.

15) Let stand a MINIMUM of 24 hours; DO NOT rush this part.

16) Place the water heater bypass valves in winter bypass AGAIN. This should prevent anode and calcium bits from being sucked into the plumbing.

16) Open Low point drains and the fresh water tank stop cock and drain the tanks. INSTALL NEW WATER FILTER.

STEPS 17 - 21 are only required if you drink the water in your fresh water tanks and don't like the taste of chlorine.

17) Dissolve 4 heaping tablespoons of baking soda in 1 cup hot water.

18) Turn off water hose; open the shutoff valve; pour the baking soda water into the hose and close the shutoff valve.

19) When tanks and plumbing are empty (except for the water heater), close the low point drains and the fresh water tank stop cock.

20) Fill the fresh water tank to the top with the baking soda and water. Turn on the pump; place the water heater valve(s) to NORMAL and open the taps and the low point drains until all the chlorine smelly water is gone.

21) Shut off pump. Cap Low point drains.

22) Fill plumbing and hot water tank with chlorinated "house" fresh water from hose using the city water connection and add about 5 gallons of city water to fresh water tank. Turn on pump, open the pressure relief valve on the water heater to make sure the water heater is full.

READY for camping!
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Old 05-19-2013, 09:09 AM   #6
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WOW this is great info. Great Forum everyone. Thanks a lot.
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Old 05-19-2013, 02:07 PM   #7
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I have the bleach solution in the water system right now. The manual says three hours soaking or should I wait longer. And do i have to do this before I use the water system every time?
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Old 05-19-2013, 02:09 PM   #8
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And also should I run water into the water heater? Wouldn't the chlorine hurt the anode?
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Old 05-19-2013, 04:48 PM   #9
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I didnt all the steps earlier. Is it common to be hard to get the anode back in due to rust on the threads? I had to put a small amount of grease on the threads on the anode and where it goes in on the tank to get it to screw in.
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Old 05-19-2013, 10:11 PM   #10
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I have the bleach solution in the water system right now. The manual says three hours soaking or should I wait longer. And do i have to do this before I use the water system every time?
I leave it overnight (about 24 hours). Might not need that long, but more is better, IMO.

If you keep chlorinated water in the tank and use it frequently enough to replace the water you should be good for the season. If you use well water, I would treat it every month or so.
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Old 05-19-2013, 11:28 PM   #11
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Thank you I'm leaving it overnight. This is what I'm confused about. I put the valves back into the position they should be for use. No wate goes into the water hheater until I open the bypass valve. Won't hot and cold water be mixing with this open? I've never even used the trailer yet so I don't know if I had hot water before winterizing.
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Old 05-20-2013, 06:35 AM   #12
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Thank you I'm leaving it overnight. This is what I'm confused about. I put the valves back into the position they should be for use. No wate goes into the water hheater until I open the bypass valve. Won't hot and cold water be mixing with this open? I've never even used the trailer yet so I don't know if I had hot water before winterizing.
I gather you have a single valve system. (like the photo).

You only get two choices with that type. Bypass (up) and NORMAL (in line with cold water hose.

There is a one way check valve at the top of the tank that prevents water from going into the tank using the top hose and the valve is bored with a "T" that blocks the vertical pipe when aligned with the cold water line and blocks the tank inlet when aligned "UP".
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Old 05-20-2013, 03:39 PM   #13
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No its three valves. Hot cold and middle bypass. All have to be OPEN for water to go into hit water tank otherwise the pump just runs and no water goes in.
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Old 05-20-2013, 03:48 PM   #14
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Old 05-20-2013, 03:54 PM   #15
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I know but water will not go to my hot water tank until I open the middle valve.
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Old 05-20-2013, 03:58 PM   #16
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I know but water will not go to my hot water tank until I open the middle valve.
Do you have pressure relief valve open for air to escape?
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Old 05-20-2013, 03:58 PM   #17
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Definitely at home. Took us almost an entire day with filling the water tank, bleaching, dumping, filling, etc. Plus we needed a new anode rod, so we replaced that right away. To do this at a dump station at a campground would take way too much time and would certainly anger everyone in line behind you. Better to do at home where you have the time, the room and the resources.

we drink water from our tank all season and we only sanitize it once at the beginning of the season. We're lucky that we have an abundance of clear, safe, water here in Wisconsin.
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Old 05-20-2013, 04:11 PM   #18
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The pressure relief valve was open. No water goes in.
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Old 05-20-2013, 04:58 PM   #19
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Quote:
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The pressure relief valve was open. No water goes in.
Let me get my head around this. You have a 3 valve system but no water will enter the water heater when the top and bottom valves are open and the middle one is closed. Is that right?

Try it with the top and bottom valves open (handles in line with pipe) and the middle one closed (handle cross wise) and see if you get water out of the hot water taps. It should fill the water heater's tank if you open a hot water tap. Opening the pressure relief will vent air to more quickly fill the tank, but it will fill just fine with a tap open.

Opening the bypass will, well, bypass the water heater. This typically results in cool or luke warm water due to the mixing of hot water coming out of the tank and cold water coming up the bypass tube.
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Old 05-20-2013, 08:22 PM   #20
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You are right. When the bypass is closed and I try to use hot water I get a trickle. I tried I the heater tonight with all valves open and I don't know how but I have hot water. Is it possible for this valve to have been installed the wrong way?
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