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Old 07-25-2020, 05:18 PM   #21
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Nice job!, Thanks for sharing!

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Old 07-25-2020, 09:42 PM   #22
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I thought about using the Unistrut but went with 4" C-channel instead. I attached it to the trailer framer with 2 bolts at each end of the c-channel. The picture doesn't show how badly the factory angle iron support was bent.
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Old 07-26-2020, 04:48 AM   #23
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Excellent use of materials! If I may offer a suggestion, add an additional nut and tighten to the top of the existing nuts to insure that it will not loosen up from all the bouncing and vibration that happens on the road. In the pictures it appears that your clamps have the room to add them.
Or replace the existing nuts with a nylon locking nut on each like is used on aircraft where a cotter pin is not used.

One other suggestion if you drilled that channel fore and aft and put a bolt and nut just outside the clamp it would prevent the channel from migrating side to side as you travel and the rough road vibrates it.

This would allow you to cut off those long ends of the channel sticking out as grabbers for whatever as you drive down the road.

I do not mean this as a criticism of your idea, it is a GREAT idea and an easy installation. Just a different set of eyes looking at the problem and a different brain coming up with its own ideas.
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Old 07-26-2020, 11:31 AM   #24
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Or replace the existing nuts with a nylon locking nut on each like is used on aircraft where a cotter pin is not used.

One other suggestion if you drilled that channel fore and aft and put a bolt and nut just outside the clamp it would prevent the channel from migrating side to side as you travel and the rough road vibrates it.

This would allow you to cut off those long ends of the channel sticking out as grabbers for whatever as you drive down the road.

I do not mean this as a criticism of your idea, it is a GREAT idea and an easy installation. Just a different set of eyes looking at the problem and a different brain coming up with its own ideas.

Appreciate the suggestion and I have considered exchanging nuts for "nylocks".

As for "migrating", the clamps have dug into the edge of the channel a slight amount and can't really go anywhere as long as the nuts are tight.

On the extended pieces of channel, I did that on purpose. I doubt they'll grab anything going down the road. They are above the bottom of the plastic skirting on the sides and are well above other items attached to the frame like folding steps, axles, drain outlet, and tongue jack.

I have future plans for some electrical work, adding a 120 Vac line from converter to my "electrical compartment and rather than fishing through the frame I'm planning on using EMT with watertigh t connectors. I have some extra strut that I will be adding to the frame farther back and will support it on top of the strut. I also don't like the LPG hose the factory used so a future project will be to replace it with black iron pipe with hose only used from the amidship manifold that splits it off to water heater, furnace,stove, refrigerator, and outside BBQ.
The pipe will be secured to the top of the strut as well.

As a brief update, I installed this with the tank empty for obvious reasons. Didn't want to use a jack to lift the stuts into final position. When I filled the tank yesterday I put 300# of weight (36 gallon) on them and if they sagged in the middle with that weight it was too little to notice.
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Old 07-27-2020, 09:06 AM   #25
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Looks good and will keep the tank where it belongs.

I probably overbuilt mine a little.....fabricated a bolt-on support with 1/2" PVC board to keep the tank from sagging between the braces. The two main cross members are 2 x 2 x 1/4 angle and the intermediates are 1-1/2 x 1-1/2 x 3/16, all hardware is Grade 8 with steel lock nuts.

The entire assembly is bolted in and the only holes drilled were two in each of the factory cross members, the new 2"x1/4" angle cross members sit on top of the bottom flange of the frame rails and under the factory cross member angle.







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Old 07-27-2020, 12:13 PM   #26
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TitanMike ..."I also don't like the LPG hose the factory used so a future project will be to replace it with black iron pipe with hose only used from the amidship manifold that splits it off to water heater, furnace,stove, refrigerator, and outside BBQ."...

Be careful using black pipe in this application. The frame flexes which will induce flex in the pipe as well. This could loosen the joints. I could also be paranoid...
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Old 07-30-2020, 07:32 PM   #27
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Been looking for ideas for my tank. I don't want to drill holes or weld. Great solution. Thanks
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Old 07-30-2020, 08:08 PM   #28
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TitanMike ..."I also don't like the LPG hose the factory used so a future project will be to replace it with black iron pipe with hose only used from the amidship manifold that splits it off to water heater, furnace,stove, refrigerator, and outside BBQ."...

Be careful using black pipe in this application. The frame flexes which will induce flex in the pipe as well. This could loosen the joints. I could also be paranoid...
Appreciate your input.

I will say that my 1995 Terry used black iron pipe from the LPG tank tray all the way back behind the axles where it split off to the appliances. Even used copper tubing from manifold on pipe to appliances with a relatively short hose from regulator to pipe.

This setup saw several trips across the nation and even more in the Western states. I bought new in 1995 and sold it in 2017. Nary a single leak.

In my case the pipe was secured with conduit brackets with rubber between the bracket and pipe. Pipe really didn't flex with frame. FWIW, most pipe fittings I've used or encountered are tightened to the point they are really difficult to loosen after they've been left alone for any length of time. The taper in the threads makes them kind of self locking.
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Old 07-30-2020, 08:12 PM   #29
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Looks good and will keep the tank where it belongs.

I probably overbuilt mine a little.....fabricated a bolt-on support with 1/2" PVC board to keep the tank from sagging between the braces. The two main cross members are 2 x 2 x 1/4 angle and the intermediates are 1-1/2 x 1-1/2 x 3/16, all hardware is Grade 8 with steel lock nuts.

The entire assembly is bolted in and the only holes drilled were two in each of the factory cross members, the new 2"x1/4" angle cross members sit on top of the bottom flange of the frame rails and under the factory cross member angle.








I saw this when you originally posted it. Great job and if I had a bigger trailer with more "cargo capacity" I would have done the same. Since my trailer is a MicroLite, emphasis on lite, I had to save weight so I opted for simplicity. Extra weight was less than 30#.

Took it on an outing this week and when I filled the tank, no "beer belly",
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Old 07-30-2020, 08:35 PM   #30
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TitanMike, my friend owned part of I think the original company called Unistrut back in the 60's or 70's and was in Detroit. Their patent may have run out by now. I also have used it in may ways including electrical. You made good use of it.
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Old 07-30-2020, 09:04 PM   #31
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TitanMike, my friend owned part of I think the original company called Unistrut back in the 60's or 70's and was in Detroit. Their patent may have run out by now. I also have used it in may ways including electrical. You made good use of it.
I had a friend back in the 60's 70's that was an electrician. He turned me on to how versatile this stuff is. Common names I have heard is "Unistrut" and "Kindorff" which may be the name it was originally patented under. Patents are only good for 20 years I think unless changes are made and the item is upgraded. Who knows.

Kind of a chicken vs egg as to which one came first but one thing for sure, it comes in handy for projects.
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Old 07-30-2020, 09:20 PM   #32
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I had a friend back in the 60's 70's that was an electrician. He turned me on to how versatile this stuff is. Common names I have heard is "Unistrut" and "Kindorff" which may be the name it was originally patented under. Patents are only good for 20 years I think unless changes are made and the item is upgraded. Who knows.

Kind of a chicken vs egg as to which one came first but one thing for sure, it comes in handy for projects.
It's huge in networking and telephony, especially in data centers, for creating overhead cable runs.
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Old 07-31-2020, 06:10 AM   #33
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Ditto

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I had just come in from crawling around and checking out our water tank belly. It looks like a great idea (minimally invasive...). I made our belly way worse by compounding a mistake with a confounding modification. To prevent the siphon back out a half a tank of water issue, I added a cap. Then I pulled in to a campground hooked up, turned on water thinking I was on City Water, but I was filling. Twenty minutes later we were hearing very... strange noises. I checked for damage, but it is mainly a HUGE BELLY. Sometimes I disappoint myself.

Thanks again. I think you provided the solution to my dilemma
Wow. I thought this only happened to us! We were visiting with other campers and husband also connected to city water port. Then was visiting. I went in camper and floor was ballooned up inside! The overflow valve was closed the floor has been ballooned for three yrs. Never went back down. Dang. Any suggestions? Thanks
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Old 07-31-2020, 07:10 AM   #34
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I saw this when you originally posted it. Great job and if I had a bigger trailer with more "cargo capacity" I would have done the same. Since my trailer is a MicroLite, emphasis on lite, I had to save weight so I opted for simplicity. Extra weight was less than 30#.

Took it on an outing this week and when I filled the tank, no "beer belly",
Yeah, I added about 70 lbs with this mod, but I gained it back (plus a lot) going to LiFePO4's
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Old 07-31-2020, 07:49 AM   #35
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"Super Thread" with great info shared!
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Old 07-31-2020, 08:27 AM   #36
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Appreciate your input.

I will say that my 1995 Terry used black iron pipe from the LPG tank tray all the way back behind the axles where it split off to the appliances. Even used copper tubing from manifold on pipe to appliances with a relatively short hose from regulator to pipe.

This setup saw several trips across the nation and even more in the Western states. I bought new in 1995 and sold it in 2017. Nary a single leak.

In my case the pipe was secured with conduit brackets with rubber between the bracket and pipe. Pipe really didn't flex with frame. FWIW, most pipe fittings I've used or encountered are tightened to the point they are really difficult to loosen after they've been left alone for any length of time. The taper in the threads makes them kind of self locking.
Fair enough. I am going through leak detection and repair at my work in our compressed air system right now. I could be a bit sensitive to this issue.
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Old 07-31-2020, 08:31 AM   #37
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I had a friend back in the 60's 70's that was an electrician. He turned me on to how versatile this stuff is. Common names I have heard is "Unistrut" and "Kindorff" which may be the name it was originally patented under. Patents are only good for 20 years I think unless changes are made and the item is upgraded. Who knows.

Kind of a chicken vs egg as to which one came first but one thing for sure, it comes in handy for projects.
Unistrut was the egg. It was designed/invented by Decelco in the 1920s, which later changed its name to Unistrut Corporation.

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Old 07-31-2020, 12:03 PM   #38
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Dammit TitanMike, like I needed another project!
The last few years my 'sag' has increased to where it probably holds 5 gallons I can't get out of the side mounted output.
Your solution is one of the better ones I've seen, and if I sell my RV, I can move it to the new one.
One question, is that insulation between the coroplast and tank/frame, and did you add that? If so, another good idea.
Thanks for the great idea, thread, and pics!
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Old 07-31-2020, 12:15 PM   #39
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Dammit TitanMike, like I needed another project!
The last few years my 'sag' has increased to where it probably holds 5 gallons I can't get out of the side mounted output.
Your solution is one of the better ones I've seen, and if I sell my RV, I can move it to the new one.
One question, is that insulation between the coroplast and tank/frame, and did you add that? If so, another good idea.
Thanks for the great idea, thread, and pics!
No insulation. I did seal the edges of the coroplast with aluminum adhesive backed tape to keep the road dirt out. Have to re-do it as I had to cut it to drop the coroplast for another project before supporting the tank.

I have considered adding a layer of insulation between floor and plastic but haven't figured out how to insulate under the tank. No room. Will just have to rely on the tank heaters.
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Old 07-31-2020, 12:24 PM   #40
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No insulation. I did seal the edges of the coroplast with aluminum adhesive backed tape to keep the road dirt out. Have to re-do it as I had to cut it to drop the coroplast for another project before supporting the tank.

I have considered adding a layer of insulation between floor and plastic but haven't figured out how to insulate under the tank. No room. Will just have to rely on the tank heaters.
Ah, that's tape I'm seeing, not insulation. But it got me thinking a thin sheet of foam insulation board that would compress between support and tank (not push the tank up) might be beneficial for winter camping. I already added insulation in appropriate dead spaces above coroplast.
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