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Old 01-04-2018, 08:19 PM   #1
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Help finding frozen pipe

I have a 2018 Sandpiper . We have had bitter cold weather recently but until today I have had no issues. I am connected directly to an outside water source. This morning no water. Not even a drip. The water from the source to the city water port is fine. The heat has been on the entire time. I put a heater in the compartment where the city water port is but still nothing. I was hoping I could find a water line diagram or something to help me troubleshoot this. The temp will not be above freezing for several days.
Any help will be appreciated
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Old 01-04-2018, 08:41 PM   #2
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There is not going to be a water line diagram. I suggest you open all cupboards and try to heat it from the inside. You will have to remove drawers, false panels ect. to get air moving. A small fan will also help.
Start with the area on the inside opposite of the city water inlet.
The biggest problem is obviously the weather, nothing is going to stay thawed.
Can you post the model of your Sandpiper, other members most likely have your same model and will be able to give you specific suggestions.
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Old 01-04-2018, 09:15 PM   #3
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Thanks
I will try that and hope for a break in this weather soon.
It is a 379 FLOK
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Old 01-04-2018, 09:27 PM   #4
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Thanks
I will try that and hope for a break in this weather soon.
It is a 379 FLOK
You are welcome. I hope you can get it thawed out. You say you have city water, what about sewer hook up? Keep an eye on your black and gray tanks, they freeze too. Keep your tank heaters on if so equipped.
BTW, Welcome to the forum. Keep us posted.
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Old 01-05-2018, 08:43 AM   #5
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I don’t have anything in my tanks. I am hooked directly to city water and I am bypassing my tanks going straight to a septic tank. I am living in this while I am building a house. I have been here about 2 months and until now it was great. I put a small heater in the compartment where the water goes. I don’t think anything near there would be frozen now but still no water. Makes me wonder if the valve were the main water goes in is bad,
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Old 01-05-2018, 08:56 AM   #6
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Bsively,can you push in the "Check valve that is located behind the screen"? This is where you hook up the hose from city water! Youroo!!
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Old 01-05-2018, 09:21 AM   #7
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We just got back from a trip to Duluth over Xmas break and experienced frozen pipes at around 6F. In our case, none of the taps would drip water and the pump wouldn't come on. So I installed a heater near the water pump and finally got it going. I think what happened is there is a cold supply line that touches the outer shell of the bin and it might have frozen there. Maybe something similar. After 30 mins or so with a 1500 watt heater in the water pump bay, we got everything flowing so we can winterize it before heading further north.
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Old 01-05-2018, 09:32 AM   #8
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bsivley, you wrote "I put a small heater in the compartment where the water goes." Saying "where the water goes" might not be specific enough for us to help. You probably need to ensure you get heat to the water pump area as KansasFR3 mentioned.
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....
So I installed a heater near the water pump and finally got it going....
When I look in my control panel/center/whatever it's called, I see connections and valves, etc., but I can't see my water pump. Campground water goes through the water pump head. That's evident when people complain that their anti-reverse has grit in it causing the campground water to overfill their fresh water tank.

I hope this helps.
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Old 01-05-2018, 09:46 AM   #9
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I donít have anything in my tanks. I am hooked directly to city water and I am bypassing my tanks going straight to a septic tank.
Just be aware that you can not bypass your tanks. Everything is still going into your tanks first then the liquids are flowing into the septic. This can still cause you problems eventually as both ice and solids will build in the black tank and can cause a back up.

As for your water, How are you keeping the line from the city water to the TT from freezing. If you have slush in it, it can clog the back flow preventer on the TT inlet and cause you to have no water.
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Old 01-05-2018, 10:08 AM   #10
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bsivley, you wrote "I put a small heater in the compartment where the water goes." Saying "where the water goes" might not be specific enough for us to help. You probably need to ensure you get heat to the water pump area as KansasFR3 mentioned.

When I look in my control panel/center/whatever it's called, I see connections and valves, etc., but I can't see my water pump. Campground water goes through the water pump head. That's evident when people complain that their anti-reverse has grit in it causing the campground water to overfill their fresh water tank.

I hope this helps.
Not quite correct.

While city/campground water can backflow through the pump head (if the check valve sticks) it is not designed to normally flow through the pump head.

While the fresh water system and the city/campground water system connection share some plumbing, they are separate feeds isolated by the check valve in the water pump.

Here is a 'simple' diagram of a typical plumbing system.
Pay attention to the flow arrows. (especially at the pump area)
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Old 01-05-2018, 10:17 AM   #11
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You may be frozen only from the city water to the pump. put some water in your tank and see if you can pump water.
There is or should be a backflow check valve from the city connection to the pump. This may be frozen. People often do not remember to release this water when winterizing.
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Old 01-05-2018, 10:18 AM   #12
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Not quite correct.

While city/campground water can backflow through the pump head (if the check valve sticks) it is not designed to normally flow through the pump head.

While the fresh water system and the city/campground water system connection share some plumbing, they are separate feeds isolated by the check valve in the water pump.

Here is a 'simple' diagram of a typical plumbing system.
Pay attention to the flow arrows. (especially at the pump area)
OK. If the separate feeds are "isolated by the check valve in the water pump", campground water is pressurized against the isolating check valve (in the pump head). I should have said campground water touches the check valve inside the pump head instead of "goes through". I stand corrected. Still, if I had "frozen pipes" such that campground water wouldn't flow, I'd want to apply heated air to the area of the water pump and not just to the area of the outside water connection(s). Right?
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Old 01-05-2018, 10:23 AM   #13
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OK. If the separate feeds are "isolated by the check valve in the water pump", campground water is pressurized against the isolating check valve (in the pump head). I should have said campground water touches the check valve inside the pump head instead of "goes through". I stand corrected. Still, if I had "frozen pipes" such that campground water wouldn't flow, I'd want to apply heated air to the area of the water pump and not just to the area of the outside water connection(s). Right?
Correct.
But just remember, (as in my case) the city water connection can be sometimes be far away from the water pump. So applying heat to the water pump area may not thaw a frozen water line coming from the city water connection.
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Old 01-05-2018, 10:54 AM   #14
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I want to thank everyone for all the help and ideas. Still no water but now I have some things to try. Someone suggested putting a heater close to the water pump. I will try that. I assume itís behind the panel where the city water check valve is but I am not sure I will start there. Someone also asked about my supply line. It is a heavy duty 5/8 RV Jose with heat tape and wrapped with insulation. It is warm and has no slush. I have good water all the way to the check valve. I am about to remove it again to see if so can push the check valve.
Keep the ideas coming and thanks again
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Old 01-05-2018, 11:23 AM   #15
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I have two ports. One that says city water fill and one that says tank fill. Are you suggesting to fill the tank and see if I can run off the pump.?
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Old 01-05-2018, 11:26 AM   #16
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Also when I disconnected my hose from my city water port and pushed the check valve water came out . It pushed easy so I don’t think it is stuck
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Old 01-05-2018, 11:39 AM   #17
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I have two ports. One that says city water fill and one that says tank fill. Are you suggesting to fill the tank and see if I can run off the pump.?
Yes, trying to isolate the problem. If you can pump water from the tank thru the pump and into the rig tan you know you are frozen from the pump to the city hookup. This ain't rocket science. You need to eliminate any problems front to back. Start at the city connection and work to the farthest faucet. One thing at a time.
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Old 01-05-2018, 11:57 AM   #18
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I filled the tank and turned on the pump and still nothing
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Old 01-05-2018, 12:26 PM   #19
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I filled the tank and turned on the pump and still nothing
good now remove the hose from the trailer side if the pump and try it again.
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Old 01-05-2018, 12:27 PM   #20
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I filled the tank and turned on the pump and still nothing
Do you hear the pump run?
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