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Old 02-10-2017, 10:42 PM   #1
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Help toilet is leaking

Came in after setting up and saw water dripping from the toilet. Not sure if this is a quick fix while we're at the camp site or if we should let the dealer handle this. Not the greatest picture but it's leaking from both spots that are circled. I don't want to risk over tightening it and breaking the plastic connection so please give me some advice on what I should do. Thanks in advance.
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Old 02-11-2017, 12:30 AM   #2
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First, how positive are you that it's leaking at both points?

I've had plenty of issues with the cinch clamps (the circle to the right). Cut it off and put a screw/worm clamp or whatever they're called.

As for the other one- I'd try unscrewing it and adding teflon tape.
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Old 02-11-2017, 08:41 AM   #3
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Yep, what Ependy says.. Also, do you have a water pressure regulator attached? High pressure can bring on leaks.
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Old 02-11-2017, 09:20 AM   #4
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Thanks for the info. I'm going torun to a hardware store and see if I can find a better clamp. I do have a pressure regulator however I noticed our pressure was very low. Upon further inspection I saw the camp site had one as well so I removed mine which fixed my pressure issue but then the leak happened. Mine is back on as well so guess we will just deal with the low pressure.
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Old 02-11-2017, 09:41 AM   #5
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I cut in a residential shut off and used a regular faucet supply hose to the toilet. Get the one with plastic end on toilet end so you have enough threads.
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Old 02-11-2017, 01:46 PM   #6
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Go to Lowe's and pick yo a 4' section of PEX pipe and pex connecters and you will have a permanent fix in a half hour.
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Old 02-11-2017, 02:13 PM   #7
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Yep, thread on toilet is standard pipe thread
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Old 02-11-2017, 03:46 PM   #8
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Telstar...Don't the PEX connectors require a special tool to clinch tight?
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Old 02-11-2017, 03:55 PM   #9
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Well went to Lowes this morning and bought hose clamp teflon tape and unfortunately that didn't work. Looks like the water is leaking out from the plastic fitting in the left circle even with teflon tape so I'm guessing there is a crack or something I can't see.
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Old 02-11-2017, 03:58 PM   #10
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You put a hose clamp on the pex? That's not going to get it tight enough.
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Old 02-11-2017, 04:19 PM   #11
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You cannot use a worm clamp on PEX connections, they must be secured with compression band camps specifically designed for PEX connections and applied with a clamping tool. A worm clamp will not secure the connection.
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Old 02-11-2017, 04:41 PM   #12
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Had the same leak. Turned out there is a back flow check in the fitting that connects to the toilet. I didn't know that when I blew the lines out. I assume it froze and broke over the winter. I got the part number and replaced the fitting, connected it back up. No more leak.
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Old 02-11-2017, 05:37 PM   #13
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Some toilets (especially Dometic) have a valve in that area you have circled. If the temps in the trailer go below freezing and there is ANY water in that valve it will break and then leak (don't ask me how I know )

You will need to take the toilet assembly apart to see if there is a valve in there - if so, you will need to replace it.
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Old 02-11-2017, 05:55 PM   #14
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x2 on what BamaBob said.

If you experienced any freezing there is what is called a foot valve in the toilet and it will crack and leak. Cracking is indicated by white lines, if I remember correctly. Check the manual and it is in there.

Missed it one year when I blew out the lines for the winter. Fortunately I discovered it when I do my pre season check out routine in the driveway.
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Old 02-12-2017, 02:23 AM   #15
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I had a similar leak over a year ago and it took me a few days to locate exactly where it was leaking from. It turned out that the connection you circled in your photo wasn't leaking at all but the shaft of the toilet valve was leaking and the water wasn't showing up until it reached the connection between the feed line and the toilet.

One way to locate the leak is to disconnect city water, turn off the pump, release the pressure in the water lines by opening a faucet, dry the area, then wrap folded strips of toilet paper around various locations and turn the pump back on. TP above the leak will stay dry while the wraps below it will get wet.

Dometic says that the toilet valve can't be fixed and should be replaced. I was able to do mine without removing the toilet, Dometic's recommended procedure. There should be a cone washer between the feed line and the toilet valve assembly. If you're repairing this yourself, you should visit an RV dealer or possibly a plumbing supply store to get the correct cone washer. Home Depot and Lowes near me didn't have the correct washer.
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Old 02-12-2017, 08:22 AM   #16
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FYI. Don't use teflon tape on crimp connections. Hose clamps may work in a pinch( keep some in your tool box. For weekend in site repairs) otherwise use the push on type fittings; i.e. Shark bite. Ect. If you do not want to invest in the crimp tool. Note these tools are less expenses on Amazon or eBay. If your handy between home and rv repairs over the years they will be used several times. Or consider sharing one with your neighbor. Just saying. Click image for larger version

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Old 02-12-2017, 08:36 AM   #17
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I keep a half inch crimp tool along with a couple short lengths of pex and various fittings "just in case".
I use only copper rings, I see the bands that these rigs come with as junk. I've already changed out all fittings/elbows/couplers with brass and all faucets are residential as well as one handle shower valve.
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Old 02-12-2017, 08:48 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Paul GA View Post
I use only copper rings, I see the bands that these rigs come with as junk. I've already changed out all fittings/elbows/couplers with brass and all faucets are residential as well as one handle shower valve.
You wouldn't be related to Mr. Castorini the plumber would you??

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Old 02-12-2017, 08:50 AM   #19
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You wouldn't be related to Mr. Castorini the plumber would you??



A long lost uncle perhaps!
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