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Old 02-22-2017, 10:14 PM   #1
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Help with plumbing mod - add accumulator tank plumbing

I'm getting ready to add an accumulator tank. Got the tank, built a little stand for it, etc. I have checked all the piping sizes that I need to work with, all are labeled 1/2". So I bought the fittings I thought I needed, 3/4 fip -> 1/2" pex elbow, a couple PEX tee fittings, a couple of ball valves, and some tubing. Looking at the existing plumbing, there is a bunch of white braided flexible pipe in use. All existing connections are PEX type with cinch bands. Since it looks to me like PEX is prone to kinking if bent too far, so I prefer to not use PEX tubing for this project.

HOWEVER, the only 1/2" ID braided stuff I have found is 3/4" OD and a 3/4" cinch fittings do NOT sufficiently tighten the tubing onto the 1/2" ID PEX fittings, I can easily pull it off. I am following recommendations I've read here on the FR forum that the common stainless band screw clamps are prone to leaking, so don't want to use those.

My issue is, where I want to tie in the accumulator tank is in the middle of a segment of the braided tubing, which is downstream of the pump. So I understand why they FR used the braided stuff - that's what is sold in the vibration reduction kits. It looks to me like the tubing FR used has an OD of between 5/8" and 11/16". I measured it with a caliper...

So, either I need to figure out what FR is using for tube and fittings and where I can get them, or I have to convert parts of the current piping to PEX.

Can anyone tell me what brand of tubing FR is using and where it can be obtained in reasonable quantities, ie. 10-20 feet? Also, will standard 1/2 cinch fittings clamp onto the existing braided pipe? I'd really like to get all the stuff needed to do the job before I start cutting into the existing plumbing!

Pictures below shows the two type so of tubing I'm working with and a slightly blurry picture of the text on the braided pipe.

TIA - drinking heavily and worrying about how to finish this job!
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Old 02-23-2017, 12:25 AM   #2
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I removed the braided hose and replaced it with pex, those are pex fittings and the braided is prone to leakage. Would like to know what you are using as a accumulator tank, store bought or home made?
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Old 02-23-2017, 12:45 AM   #3
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Originally Posted by Dwilcox View Post
I removed the braided hose and replaced it with pex, those are pex fittings and the braided is prone to leakage. Would like to know what you are using as a accumulator tank, store bought or home made?
In my case, the braided stuff is run all over. There is probably 20 feet of it in my "wet" compartment. On my rig, that is that back of the trailer, inside is the hot water tank and pump. The braided pipe comes in from the anti-freeze port, city water port, up from the fresh water tank, and I don't know what all else...

So, I'm planning to do two mods at once, put in the accumulator and take out the water filter. The filter removal should be easy - blue pex on both sides. What I'm sweating is cutting into that white braided stuff with a tee fitting. Not sure if my cinch clamps will go onto the braided stuff. I could pull out some of the braided stuff, but eventually I get to a pipe that I'm just not up to replacing...

I picked up one of these...http://www.menards.com/main/plumbing...56399409556218
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Old 02-23-2017, 12:49 AM   #4
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Yep, it sucks when they don't stick to one product. That tank should work fine.
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Old 02-23-2017, 12:59 AM   #5
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Saw a post from SeaDog who has the same trailer I do. He made the same mod. I plagiarized the tank from him. He mounted his horizontally. I plan to mount mine vertical back in a corner. That way I know all the water is out of it. Going to put in a piece of pipe and a ball valve so that during winterization, I can blow all the water out of the line to the tank, then close another ball valve between the tank and the rest of the plumbing to isolate it. Won't have to push anti-freeze into the tank. Not sure if it matters, but didn't want anti-freeze on the tank diaphragm.
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Old 02-24-2017, 07:34 AM   #6
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The "fitting" world makes me dizzy; especially with all the new push on things available. I bought the little shurflo accumulator, which came with 1/2" MPT (I think) and with the included adapter (F to F), it screwed right onto the pump outlet, as I recall. The hard part is knowing when to stop tightening these plastic things, so you don't strip or break it. I like the idea of the larger tank you used.

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Old 02-24-2017, 08:03 AM   #7
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1/2" crimp rings will fit over the braided hose after a little struggle. I remain confused as to how manufacturers decide where and when to use braided vs. PEX.
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Old 02-24-2017, 09:04 AM   #8
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In my R-Pod 171, the braided 1/2" water line is IAPMO UPC NSF 61-9. Its OD is 0.625".

The ID of a 1/2" PEX cinch clamp is 0.62" and the braided line can be convinced to fit in it with some inconvenience.
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Old 02-24-2017, 09:16 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by johnbryanpeters View Post
1/2" crimp rings will fit over the braided hose after a little struggle. I remain confused as to how manufacturers decide where and when to use braided vs. PEX.
Quote:
Originally Posted by johnbryanpeters View Post
In my R-Pod 171, the braided 1/2" water line is IAPMO UPC NSF 61-9. Its OD is 0.625".

The ID of a 1/2" PEX cinch clamp is 0.62" and the braided line can be convinced to fit in it with some inconvenience.
Agreed.
You can get the PEX ring clamps on and many of my fittings have it just that way.

I've also wondered how the decision is made as to whether to use PEX or braided. I've had units that had plumbing runs with a mixture. Some even were PEX then braided then back to PEX. Go figure!
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Old 02-24-2017, 01:55 PM   #10
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When my hose broke off a fitting and I didn't have an rv dealer near, I was able to find the braided hose at a marine dealer. This hose was the right size and as a bonus had a 250 lb. test rating! Worked great.
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Old 02-28-2017, 07:13 AM   #11
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The manufacturers use the cheapest things they can find. Id make insure the fittings you use are all brass and crimped onto the pex. I was a plumber and never had pex leak if the fitting was brass. Plastiv on the other hand is prone to breakage and leaks.

Get them at a plumbing store, they will have a much better selection and cheaper than the big box stores
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Old 03-01-2017, 06:13 AM   #12
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I tried the little one first, but still could not get a flush without the pump running. I eventually got a bigger one and now we both have quiet nights even with two visits.

I have since added a valve so I can isolate it during winterizing to keep "pink" out of the accumulator after draining.
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Old 03-01-2017, 12:21 PM   #13
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^^^ Nice looking job. I'm halfway on mine. Every time I want to drive over to the trailer to do the install, it is either really cold or it's raining..

I'll post some pics when I git-er-done!
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Old 03-01-2017, 12:38 PM   #14
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So, I'm planning to do two mods at once, put in the accumulator and take out the water filter. The filter removal should be easy - blue pex on both sides. What I'm sweating is cutting into that white braided stuff with a tee fitting. Not sure if my cinch clamps will go onto the braided stuff. I could pull out some of the braided stuff, but eventually I get to a pipe that I'm just not up to replacing...
If you're removing the water filter, can you simply install a Tee in it's place and attach the accumulator to the Tee? Since most filters have the PEX at the top with the filter hanging down, and you need it at the bottom, with the accumulator above it, you would need to drop the PEX down to floor level, but I know in my TT, that wouldn't be difficult. I think I could cut 12 or 18 inches off the PEX on each side of filter (coupler in pic), and it would basically be at floor level. The blue PEX comes up from floor level, goes through the coupler (where the filter was) and back down to floor level.
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Old 03-01-2017, 05:01 PM   #15
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Originally Posted by rockfordroo View Post
If you're removing the water filter, can you simply install a Tee in it's place and attach the accumulator to the Tee? Since most filters have the PEX at the top with the filter hanging down, and you need it at the bottom, with the accumulator above it, you would need to drop the PEX down to floor level, but I know in my TT, that wouldn't be difficult. I think I could cut 12 or 18 inches off the PEX on each side of filter (coupler in pic), and it would basically be at floor level. The blue PEX comes up from floor level, goes through the coupler (where the filter was) and back down to floor level.

DOH!
Why didn't I think of doing it this way?! That will work perfectly.
I'm going to cut out the filter at the fittings, put in a tee with new leg down thru a ball valve to a tee, one side into the accumulator, the other leg thru another ball valve and to an open ended piece of hose (for winterizing and getting water at the back of the trailer).
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Old 03-01-2017, 05:35 PM   #16
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What motivates you to remove the filter?
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Old 03-01-2017, 05:47 PM   #17
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What motivates you to remove the filter?
I've read too many posts of people who've had problems with them leaking. That and it's awkward to open/close to replace the filter in the space where it's mounted. Finally - it fills with anti-freeze during winterization. Added benefit; I can re-arrange the area where it and the water pump are located and gain some useful storage.
I'm going to setup a mount for the filter and just hook it up on the outside of the trailer. That way I can filter water from either a city connection or run water thru it if filling the fresh tank. I'm thinking of getting an appropriately sized bucket to hold both the water hose and the filter, so easy on - easy off.
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