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Old 08-22-2016, 08:54 AM   #1
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Hot H20 pressure kitchen

I have a 36CKTS 2016 Cedar Creek with instant hot water. My hot water pressure in kitchen has dropped. Cold water pressure is fine in kitchen. Hot water pressure fine in bathroom sink and shower. Only in kitchen. This low pressure prevents instant hot water heater from turning on. Any suggestions as to why after 6 month reduced pressure in kitchen only?
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Old 08-22-2016, 09:17 AM   #2
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Probably some debris in the hot side cartridge of the kitchen faucet.
Pull it apart and check.

A line could also have been partially kinked and has now completely closed off too.
Not a common problem but more so on the hot side as the hot water makes the hose/line more flexible and kinks more easily.
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Old 08-22-2016, 08:47 PM   #3
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[QUOTE=5picker;1296761]Probably some debris in the hot side cartridge of the kitchen faucet.
Pull it apart and check.

I am not sure what you mean by "cartridge" I traced the hot water line, as best I can, from intake to spicket with no hinderance. I suspect the problem is between intake and instant hot water heater.
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Old 08-22-2016, 10:04 PM   #4
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If you hot pressure is good everywhere but the kitchen, then it is most likely in the hot cartridge under the hot handle if two handle or if single handle faucet, in the hot inlet of the mixing Cartridge under that handle is what 5 picker was saying. If the cartridge is clean it could be in the tee going up to the faucet. I am assuming that cold is good at the kitchen and hot and cold are good everywhere else.
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Old 08-23-2016, 04:08 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scheinin View Post
I have a 36CKTS 2016 Cedar Creek with instant hot water. My hot water pressure in kitchen has dropped. Cold water pressure is fine in kitchen. Hot water pressure fine in bathroom sink and shower. Only in kitchen. This low pressure prevents instant hot water heater from turning on. Any suggestions as to why after 6 month reduced pressure in kitchen only?
Maybe a hot water tube / pipe got pinched somewhere / somehow?
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Old 08-23-2016, 08:07 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scheinin View Post
I am not sure what you mean by "cartridge" I traced the hot water line, as best I can, from intake to spicket with no hinderance. I suspect the problem is between intake and instant hot water heater.
The cartridge is the part in the faucet (inside, under the handle) that controls the water flow to the spigot when turning the handle.

Often times, debris (sediment, shavings, etc.) can lodge inside the cartridge and plug it up and water will not flow.
(or flows very slowly)

You will need to disassemble the faucet to see if that is the problem. Usually if plugged and not leaking, they can simply be cleaned, rather than replaced.

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Old 08-24-2016, 12:44 AM   #7
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faucet and connections

[QUOTE=5picker;1297760]The cartridge is the part in the faucet (inside, under the handle) that controls the water flow to the spigot when turning the handle.

Often times, debris (sediment, shavings, etc.) can lodge inside the cartridge and plug it up and water will not flow.
(or flows very slowly)

You will need to disassemble the faucet to see if that is the problem. Usually if plugged and not leaking, they can simply be cleaned, rather than replaced.


Thank you. Attached is a photo of my single handle faucet and the connections under the sink. The hot and cold water lines each go into a copper (?) pipe that goes into the faucet. I dread taking this apart.
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Old 08-24-2016, 07:20 AM   #8
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This can be prevented in the future by never draining your hot water tank through the low point drains.

If you use the low point drain to drain the hot water tank, debris from bits of anode and calcium nuggets get pulled into the cold water lines during drainage (the cold water feed is at the bottom of the tank). ALWAYS close the winterization valves on the back of the water heater and use the anode plug to drain the hot water heater.

If you suck that crud into the cold water pipes, it can stay in the fittings and low spots until you re-pressurize with anti-freeze, water, or air pressure. Then it will make its way to your valves and toilet flush valve causing all sorts of bad (and sometimes expensive) problems.
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Old 08-24-2016, 07:24 AM   #9
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[QUOTE=Scheinin;1298603]
Quote:
Originally Posted by 5picker View Post
The cartridge is the part in the faucet (inside, under the handle) that controls the water flow to the spigot when turning the handle.
If they did not give you the installation manual for that faucet as part of your package, I would call the parts department of your dealer or Cedar Creek and with your VIN, ask for the manufacturer of the sink faucet.

Then you can get the disassembly instructions and order a repair kit if needed.

Here is something close that came off the internet. There may even be a YouTube video if you have the correct make and model faucet.
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Old 08-24-2016, 09:03 AM   #10
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[QUOTE=Herk7769;1298694]This can be prevented in the future by never draining your hot water tank through the low point drains.

Thank you. I am full timing and therefore don't winterize. I have never drained hot water tank as I have instant hot water.
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Old 08-24-2016, 09:07 AM   #11
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[QUOTE=Herk7769;1298698] Here is something close that came off the internet. There may even be a YouTube video if you have the correct make and model faucet.

Thank you Herk. I appreciate the diagram. I will attempt to find the model of the faucet. However, I have 5 left thumbs and would be concerned I will make the situation worse. Maybe I will look for a plumber the next time I am near a big city.
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Old 08-24-2016, 09:20 AM   #12
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Steven,

I would start by taking the hot (red) supply line off the copper tube where it attaches to the faucet (2nd photo/under sink) just to be sure the blockage isn't right at the threaded connection to the copper pipe.
Depending on the debris, I've see the debris be large enough that it made it through the supply line but not through the smaller copper pipe.
You will of course, need to remove the pressure first (city water/pump) so that when removing the line you don't get soaked or blow water all over the place under the sink.

Maybe even run some water through the line while it is off just to be sure the supply line (red) is open and/or not kinked somewhere.

If there is nothing noticeable at that lower connection, you will need to disassemble the single lever on your faucet, (first photo) remove the cartridge parts and see what is in there.
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Old 08-24-2016, 09:26 AM   #13
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One other thought...

It 'may' not even be debris... it easily could be something has broken within the cartridge itself (on the hot side) or an o-ring has dislodged or some other mechanical thing within the faucet has gone wrong.
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Old 08-24-2016, 10:28 AM   #14
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[QUOTE=5picker;1298821]"I would start by taking the hot (red) supply line off the copper tube where it attaches to the faucet (2nd photo/under sink) just to be sure the blockage isn't right at the threaded connection to the copper pipe."

I think I will try that first as it seems it is in my capability. Thank you.
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Old 08-24-2016, 01:58 PM   #15
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This might or might not be in your comfort zone, but.... you can turn off the hot water only, relieve pressure on the got side, remove supply to faucet, place small bucket under supply from faucet, turn on faucet as if you wanted warm water and you might blow out the blockage. I have blocked the spout with a dime to get full pressure out the hot side to blow rust out of a faucet.
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Old 08-27-2016, 03:02 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dwilcox View Post
This might or might not be in your comfort zone, but.... you can turn off the hot water only, relieve pressure on the got side, remove supply to faucet, place small bucket under supply from faucet, turn on faucet as if you wanted warm water and you might blow out the blockage. I have blocked the spout with a dime to get full pressure out the hot side to blow rust out of a faucet.
Thank you Dwilcox. I followed your instructions, and it worked. The clog was so small I could barely see it. I now have hot water. I owe you a beer.
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