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Old 10-20-2015, 05:55 PM   #1
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Hot Water By Pass Valves

I have a Mini Lite 2502KS and am not sure of valve positions should be in winterized mode. What is the correct valvewinterize positions in winterized mode?
Currently (summer position) the valve on the hot side is open. The valve on the cold side is open. The valve between hot and cold is closed.
I will be blowing out the water system (no antifreeze except for the drains).
Thank you for your help.
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Old 10-21-2015, 10:32 AM   #2
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If you're not using antifreeze, then you shouldn't need to fiddle with the valves at all. The valves are there to prevent antifreeze from entering the water heater. Just make sure that you drain the water heater ---- blow it our well.
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Old 10-21-2015, 10:45 AM   #3
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The correct position for the valve to be in bypass are:
Hot side-closed. Cold side-closed. Valve in between-open.
This configuration allows the piping to 'bypass' the WH and keeps liquid from entering.
you mentioned blowing out the system. Make sure you remove the WH drain plug (or anode rod) to remove the water from inside the tank.
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Old 10-21-2015, 12:49 PM   #4
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Old 10-21-2015, 01:14 PM   #5
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Man those pictures have been getting a work out this week! LOL
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Old 10-21-2015, 01:32 PM   #6
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And an oddly familiar wh heater I might add!

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Old 10-21-2015, 01:51 PM   #7
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And an oddly familiar wh heater I might add!

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and why re-invent the wheel when we have yours......
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Old 10-21-2015, 01:56 PM   #8
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and why re-invent the wheel when we have yours......
Lol
Actually it's somebody else's wheel now!


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Old 10-21-2015, 03:45 PM   #9
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Thanks everyone. I appreciate the help.
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Old 10-22-2015, 05:47 PM   #10
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If you're not using antifreeze, then you shouldn't need to fiddle with the valves at all. The valves are there to prevent antifreeze from entering the water heater. Just make sure that you drain the water heater ---- blow it our well.
Wrong on everything. You can't drain the hw heater unless you switch the valves unless you are trying to drain everything.

Winter bypass on your system is easy, just reverse each of the three valves. Then you can drain the hw heater tank. By switching the valves you can now use your water system without adding water to the hw heater tank.

Jim
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Old 10-22-2015, 06:40 PM   #11
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On the Forest River website there is a video for winterizing by blowing out your lines. You still need to switch the hot, cold and pupa as valves as if you were using antifreeze. You drain the tank separately by removing the cathode rod/plug.
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Old 10-23-2015, 07:43 AM   #12
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Should you back flush a quick flush of antifreeze thru the 2 valves that are closed on the hot water tank for them valves and short section of pipe?
Thanks, Joe.
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Old 10-23-2015, 07:54 AM   #13
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Should you back flush a quick flush of antifreeze thru the 2 valves that are closed on the hot water tank for them valves and short section of pipe?
Thanks, Joe.
No

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Old 10-23-2015, 08:05 AM   #14
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Quote " Wrong on everything. You can't drain the hw heater unless you switch the valves unless you are trying to drain everything.

Winter bypass on your system is easy, just reverse each of the three valves. Then you can drain the hw heater tank. By switching the valves you can now use your water system without adding water to the hw heater tank."

I'm a bit slow here ... the guy wants to winterize his RV ... why are the previous post all wrong and why would you want to leave water in the system except for the HW heater?
I've most always winterized by compressed air as well. I drain the HW tank, leave the bypass valves alone, blow out the lines using faucets and stool lever, add a bit of pink stuff to each drain for the PTraps and call it a year.
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Old 10-23-2015, 08:24 AM   #15
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Originally Posted by dale.flyguy View Post
On the Forest River website there is a video for winterizing by blowing out your lines. You still need to switch the hot, cold and pupa as valves as if you were using antifreeze. You drain the tank separately by removing the cathode rod/plug.

I think you meant "remove annode " not cathode correct. Anodes are sacrificial metal.


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Old 10-23-2015, 09:02 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dieselguy View Post
Quote " Wrong on everything. You can't drain the hw heater unless you switch the valves unless you are trying to drain everything.

Winter bypass on your system is easy, just reverse each of the three valves. Then you can drain the hw heater tank. By switching the valves you can now use your water system without adding water to the hw heater tank."

I'm a bit slow here ... the guy wants to winterize his RV ... why are the previous post all wrong and why would you want to leave water in the system except for the HW heater?
I've most always winterized by compressed air as well. I drain the HW tank, leave the bypass valves alone, blow out the lines using faucets and stool lever, add a bit of pink stuff to each drain for the PTraps and call it a year.
dieselguy, this is why people get in trouble following the advice in these threads... people don't read/comprehend the questions posed and make a wild stab at solving some other issue. And some like to declare others wrong. I agree with you. When I'm winterizing my trailer, I DO IN FACT want to drain everything. I do in fact use compressed air and a little antifreeze in the p-traps and pump screen. I DO NOT EVER change any water heater valve. I do not bypass my water heater.
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Old 10-23-2015, 09:05 AM   #17
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If you're not using antifreeze, then you shouldn't need to fiddle with the valves at all. The valves are there to prevent antifreeze from entering the water heater. Just make sure that you drain the water heater ---- blow it our well.
You are not wrong on everything!
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Old 10-23-2015, 09:17 AM   #18
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And ... for me to clear up any misunderatandings ... there's nothing wrong with using the pink stuff and the methods involved ... I have access to air and prefer blowing my lines out.
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Old 10-23-2015, 11:11 AM   #19
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Quote " Wrong on everything. You can't drain the hw heater unless you switch the valves unless you are trying to drain everything.

Winter bypass on your system is easy, just reverse each of the three valves. Then you can drain the hw heater tank. By switching the valves you can now use your water system without adding water to the hw heater tank."

I'm a bit slow here ... the guy wants to winterize his RV ... why are the previous post all wrong and why would you want to leave water in the system except for the HW heater?
I've most always winterized by compressed air as well. I drain the HW tank, leave the bypass valves alone, blow out the lines using faucets and stool lever, add a bit of pink stuff to each drain for the PTraps and call it a year.
I didn't feel like doing a lot of typing but guess I should have.

Many winterize by using air like yourself which is fine in some areas of the country. In areas where it gets below freezing for say a week at a time it is not the best method.

The best way, in my opinion and many others here, the safest way, is to switch the bypass valves. Then pull the anode or plug and drain the hw heater. Next add pink antifreeze by using an adding system and fresh water pump. When you do this properly, by opening each faucet till it flows pink, you will have added antifreeze thru all your water lines including your bypass pipes. At the same time antifreeze will go into your drains. Don't forget to do the outside shower. I am adding shutoff valves and going to drain these two lines so I won't have to be concerned about them.

In the spring add bleach and sanitize your fw tank. Then run your pump and flush out your water lines.

I suppose if all you are going to do is blow the water lines out it wasn't totally wrong but the only purpose of the bypass is not to just keep antifreeze out of the hw heater. They allow you to use your water if you wish without worrying about freezing the heaters tank, so you can properly drain the hw heater.


My concern with just using air is I have read, on here, where condensation built up in a low spot and then froze breaking a pipe. Maybe they were careless or didn't use a high enough air pressure? I don't know. I do know if all my lines have antifreeze in them I don't have to worry.

Jim
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