Hot water tank drain valve.

[Lloydg]

Just to forewarn; Suburban warns that installing a non-Suburban anode may void your warranty. the following was copied from their manual.

WARNING! Do not replace the anode rod with any non-Suburban
accessory part, such as an “add-on” electric heating element. Items such
as these are not approved to be installed in Suburban products. They
could create an unsafe condition and will also void all warranties.

[thegreatoutdoors]

Very nice mod Al Fresco... thank you. This was kinda what I was looking for. It looks like you used regular pipe(mild steel) fittings, I was thinking about using brass. What are your opinions on that? Would the brass affect the electrolytical reaction? I am assuming that you had no continuity issues, and I'm not sure how brass will affect that either.Did you stick with the 9" rod or did you compensate for the extra length and go for a longer rod?

[OldCoot]

IMO, it is just easier to remove the anode or plug and drain the tank. Remember to turn off the electric or unplug the shoreline. Ask me how I know that? Cost me a new element and thermostat.

[Lloydg]

Originally Posted by OldCoot

IMO, it is just easier to remove the anode or plug and drain the tank. Remember to turn off the electric or unplug the shoreline.

X2

[bob213]

Originally Posted by Todouble

Dealer did tell me that most people wanna change out the plastic plug for a brass one but not to because it's designed to blow out if there's a prob. Although I thought that was what the pressure/temp relief was for. Redundancy??

Never heard that one. I was told that the plastic is less likely to cross-thread in the softer aluminum tank. Also since brass is a different metal than aluminum it will create galvanic corrosion(electrolysis?) and you might not be able to remove the plug. When I had an Atwood I always carried an extra plastic plug and a sprinkler nipple removal tool for when they break off.

[Todouble]

Originally Posted by bob213

Never heard that one. I was told that the plastic is less likely to cross-thread in the softer aluminum tank. Also since brass is a different metal than aluminum it will create galvanic corrosion(electrolysis?) and you might not be able to remove the plug. When I had an Atwood I always carried an extra plastic plug and a sprinkler nipple removal tool for when they break off.

I guess the dealer techs tell ya anything to shut you up. Your explanation makes sense. Thanks

[Al Fresco]

Thegreatoutdoors:

After a year, I have not observed any corrosion or continuity problems with the mild steel fittings. I would think that brass fittings would also be satisfactory (maybe preferable?). I had intended to use all brass fittings, but was unable to find what I needed at my local hardware store. I assume that brass fittings might be less susceptible to corrosion while still maintaining the desired electrolytic properties. Don't know for sure.

I continue to use the stock anode which appears to be eroding at the same rate as it did before I made the modification. With this mod, all the anode is still in contact with the water in the tank and the extension.

I recommend this mod for those who prefer to drain the tank after each trip. In my experience, it has greatly facilitated the process.

[thegreatoutdoors]

Al Fresco:

Thanks for the great tip. I wouldn't think brass would have any adverse affects. What size pipe fittings did it require?, I think it was 3/4" but cant be sure. My TT is in the shop right now so I cant measure.

[Witch Doctor]

I don't quit understand, If you want to flush your tank just open the relief valve and hook your hose to it where the 3/4" threads are. Remove the rod and turn the water hose on and flush your tank. If you you add galvanized pipe before the rod you will rust and have even a bigger problem after awhile. That "T" and nibble will rust out in a year or two. If you are going to do that you should be using brass as a tee. How many people flush your water heater at home? I could be wrong as always, but I just pull my rod after I let the pressure off and it will clean 90% of the crud that falls off the rod. It is more important to keep an eye on the water pump filter. You also want the whole rod in the tank. They only make one size that I have seen, so you would be losing about 3 to 4". That big nut is not galvanized it looks like stainless to me.

[Al Fresco]

thegreatoutdoors:

I think they were ¾ inch fittings. I don't have access to the Sunseeker right now to be certain. Perhaps you can get the information from the Suburban manual.

Gljurczyk:

I was concerned about corrosion when I did the mod on a test basis. So far, after more than a year, I am not observing any troubling signs of corrosion of the fittings and no evidence of rusting. As stated above, the anode rod appears to be eroding at the same rate as it was before the mod, so it seems to be functioning properly.

I prefer to drain the tank at the campground before leaving. This used to result in a mess when the anode rod was removed and all the water surged out on the ground at the site. With this mod, I attach a hose to the drain cock and direct the water away from the parking area into nearby vegetation. I can also now drain the water away from the vehicle parking pad when flushing the system at home.

I understand the this mod is not designed for those who do not empty the tank frequently and are not bothered by the residual water that accompanies emptying and flushing. However, it does eliminate the problems I was experiencing with my storage setup (gravel/dirt surface) and the way I use the system.

[thegreatoutdoors]

Al Fresco:

Thanks again. I thought it was 3/4" myself. And yes, I also like to drain my tank before we leave campsite. 1- I don't like to haul around anymore weight than I have to. 2-For the purpose that we don't camp that often, that it doesn't warrant having to leave the water in the tank just eating at the anode. So if it's not doable at the campsite, it will be a piece of cake at home.

[RhoZeta]

For the first year we had our new Rockwood I would always empty the water heater after each trip, pulling out the anode and draining it. One time I took off the caps to the low point drains and opened the vent/overpressure valve and let it drain til it stopped then I took the anode out and there was nothing left in the water heater! I did not realize that it would empty the entire tank but it did.
Since then I have only removed the anode during winterization clean out/line blow out.
I also do as someone mentioned above and hook up my water hose to the vent valve and open it while the low point drains are open and rinse the tank out, have had zero crud or funk so I am pretty sure this method works.

YMMV

[Gee Whiz]

This this anode with drain fit a surburan wtr. htr.?

[VinceU]

Originally Posted by gljurczyk

I don't quit understand, If you want to flush your tank just open the relief valve and hook your hose to it where the 3/4" threads are. Remove the rod and turn the water hose on and flush your tank. If you you add galvanized pipe before the rod you will rust and have even a bigger problem after awhile. That "T" and nibble will rust out in a year or two. If you are going to do that you should be using brass as a tee. How many people flush your water heater at home? I could be wrong as always, but I just pull my rod after I let the pressure off and it will clean 90% of the crud that falls off the rod. It is more important to keep an eye on the water pump filter. You also want the whole rod in the tank. They only make one size that I have seen, so you would be losing about 3 to 4". That big nut is not galvanized it looks like stainless to me.

A hose with std. Hose thread will not fit into the sharp vee NPT pipe thread of the heater. Hose threads are course rounded thread. Adapters can be found in HD.

[Witch Doctor]

Originally Posted by VinceU

A hose with std. Hose thread will not fit into the sharp vee NPT pipe thread of the heater. Hose threads are course rounded thread. Adapters can be found in HD.

This is true Vinceu, you need to add a copper nibble first.

[youroo]

To properly (Drain & Clean) a W/H you remove the drain (Assy). Atwood is (1/2in NPT)plastic. Suburban is (3/4in NPT)metal anode. Now if you use (Pipe nipples,Tees,Elbows,and Shutoff valves,you are (Reducing the tank Exit diameter)! If you have ever removed the (Plug) to drain & Clean a W/H tank and have seen all the (CRUD) that comes out,this post would be over! Youroo!!

[KyDan]

The camco anode with drain has a t handle drain valve.
The T handle looks to me like it would block you being able to get
a socket on the anode itself to remove and flush.
So you'd need a wrench to unscrew the drain valve out of the anode
so you could use a socket to unscrew the anode to check condition
and flush the crud out.

Not worth the effort IMO.

I took a sharpie and wrote the socket size on the inside of my access
door so I don't have to wonder what socket I need each time.
It's not that hard to remove and replace the anode when I want to
drain/winterize/flush the water heater.

[retiredcamper47]

Aren't the anode rods for a 10 gal tank longer than the ones for the 6 gal tank? This is my first Surburban water heater. My previous tt's have been Atwood.

Bob

[Witch Doctor]

Originally Posted by retiredcamper47

Aren't the anode rods for a 10 gal tank longer than the ones for the 6 gal tank? This is my first Surburban water heater. My previous tt's have been Atwood.

Bob

As far as I know they are only one size in length. It fits both models 6 gal and 10 gal tanks.

[OldCoot]

Originally Posted by youroo

To properly (Drain & Clean) a W/H you remove the drain (Assy). Atwood is (1/2in NPT)plastic. Suburban is (3/4in NPT)metal anode. Now if you use (Pipe nipples,Tees,Elbows,and Shutoff valves,you are (Reducing the tank Exit diameter)! If you have ever removed the (Plug) to drain & Clean a W/H tank and have seen all the (CRUD) that comes out,this post would be over! Youroo!!

X2 Youroo, IMO you can't get the junk out of the bottom of the tank without removing the anode from the tank. Any other misc fittings just block the opening and are a waste of time, matl, etc. I just pull the anode, open the relief valve and close the door. Water & junk drain just fine.