How to Remove On-Board Water Filter

[Nortie16]

I know this as been discussed elsewhere on these forums, but I need a bit of specific advice on how to remove my onboard water filter.

After reading all the comments here, I definitely want to remove my onboard water filter and use an external filter instead.

I've got a 2014 Rockwood 8329 with a filter that's underneath the bathroom sink. It looks like the there are two lines coming into the canister - one from the city water connection, the other from the fresh water tank, and of course the "out" hose that supplies all the sinks, toilet, etc.

The three lines are not PEX, but white braided hose, and they're connected with what looks like crimping rings, so I'm guessing I'll need to cut the white hose in those three locations. Here then are my questions:

What fittings would I use to join the lines once I've removed the filter? Are there fittings that work with this white braided hose, and would hose clamps work instead of crimping rings? (I don't have a crimping tool.)

Also, I'm guessing I'll need some sort of "T" fitting, to that the two in-lines feed into the one out-line?

Finally, will I need a check-valve on the line that comes from the fresh water tank (to prevent city water back-flow into the tank) or, does the pump itself serve as a check valve?

Again, to anyone who's done this, your advice would be appreciated!

[Black]

I did not.
And if that can make you feel better...it is my 3rd Rockwood trailer with the filter system and never had a problem with it.
The only down side is replacement cost of filter...but I figure it's a small price to pay to have good tasting & clean water to drink.

[donanddona]

Have you thought about just removing the filter and leaving the canister in-place?

[cub22908]

I replaced my filter this summer. I just cut off the clamps using a Dremel with cutoff wheel and used existing T fitting on the one side and bought a brass coupler for the other side. I used a piece of PEX to connect where filter was. Of course you have to buy a 6 ft piece of PEX for about 5 inches but it's cheap. My filter didn't have a check valve so I didn't add one, I guess there is already a check valve somewhere or the pump acts as one. Without a Dremel it would be a much more involved job. I think it took me 15 or 20 minutes for the entire job. And I do have an Oteker (sp) tool and clamps. Not a bad thing to have if you own an RV! Don't think I would trust hose clamps.

[BillyBass]

I have a filter on mind and I don't see you guys reason for disregard it.I never had a problem with mind.Why disconnect it and add a portable one to your hose. For drinking water I take water with me.But beer is better.

[cub22908]

Originally Posted by BillyBass

I have a filter on mind and I don't see you guys reason for disregard it.I never had a problem with mind.Why disconnect it and add a portable one to your hose. For drinking water I take water with me.But beer is better.

I hear what you are saying but a LOT of people have had their canister unscrew itself. That would be like having a hose on full blast inside the RV. After reading numerous accounts of that happening I decided to just remove that possibility from happening. It certainly doesn't have to be done.

[Maron]

The way it is designed, at least on the 8329, makes it just about impossible to unscrew accidently. One needs to push the canister up and rotate it to unlock and reverse the procedure to lock it. The suggestion to just take the filter out is your best...or enjoy both.
I'd be more concerned with the disconnect option leaking then I would the original canister.

Now...if they did replace the filter and did not lock the canister properly...then you will have a problem.
To get a strong lock on mine, I unscrewed the bracket from the wall and made sure the canister locked and turned a full 1/4 turn before I screwed it back in place.

[KenHwy61]

I second Cub's suggestions. I removed my filter and braided hoses and used PEX fittings and special stainless cinch clamps to replace them. Where the filter was, I added a metal PEX shut-off on the incoming water supply so when you hook up city water and turn it on you don't have to worry about something inside the camper leaking while you are still outside.

[Black]

I just can't understand how it can unscrew itself.
I need to put a fair amount of twisting pressure with the special tool to unscrew mine, holding the canister head with one hand to prevent it from tearing from the wall.
Same thing putting it back on to fully lock it in place. I have the KW1.
I know some might not lock the same, but still.

[Long Leaf Piners]

Re-posting: On-board filter hard to get to in our 2014 8528 IKWS. (In kitchen, behind fake cabinet door, leak potential is huge.) Our new unit never had its filter installed, but Canister was full of water. Release water pressure by opening a faucet. Remove canister. (catch water, lots of "blue towels", keep your floor dry) Remove 4-screws holding filter to wall; remove inlet & outlet--not easy to do--fittings. Replace with a standard coupler, using teflon tape at all connections. Remember to put connector onto line before installing second half of coupler. Final teflon wrap and then use ties to suspend fitting above floor. No cutting any plastic or pressure fittings-no new leaks-just standard screw together fittings from now on.
We now use a twin canister, two-stage, large, standard, water filter mounted on a portable rack outside near the water inlet. Easier to clean, repair, maintain, and replace AND with any, and all, leaking-outside the rig. I’ll try to figure out how to attach 4 pictures.

[Long Leaf Piners]

[Long Leaf Piners]

If you go to our Long Leaf Piners album, you will see the four pics. the first four we have ever put up. So far, I can't figure out how to attach them to my comments. Help me, long timers.......thx

[raspivey]

I've always wondered and figured I'd ask....what about filtering on the FW tank? I take drinking water with me so it's not an issue but, for the people removing the filters, does nobody drink water from the freshwater tank? It seems most people adding external filters are concerned with taste and smell. An external filter will only handle city water whereas the internal filters cover both sources. Just curious.

[bob18]

I have a Rockwood 8329 which has this under counter Waterpur filter. Like many others I'd like to remove this system or bypass it, and just use and external filter. But I'm wondering if there's a way I can avoid removing the system (since I'm not sure about what fittings to use.)

Two questions:
1. Does anyone know if it's okay to operate the system with an empty canister (that is, the canister WITHOUT the filter?) I read somewhere that the internal filter cartridge is necessary to make sure the canister does get overtightened to the upper housing;

2. I've seen references in a couple threads, to a "bypass plate" that simply replaces the canister? Does anyone know about this, whether it works satisfactorily, and, most importantly, WHERE to get one?

Thanks

[Jim in Halifax]

We NEVER drink any water at an RV site that comes thru a hose whether directly or from fresh???water tank......We play it safe and for the low cost buy gallon jugs of spring water for coffee and small bottles for drinking in RV or in truck....

[WFD]

Doing a search in here reveals lots of people who have had extensive damage from these filters letting go. Granted, many of you have not, but I wasn't going to leave it to chance. Those that had problems, it never happened at an opportune time, was when they were outside and didn' t realize till quite some time later, or during the night.
I posted in some other thread, but can't seem to find it now, that the white "braided" hose used inside the trailer is not very good stuff. Its really troublesome when you cut it, or try to work with it. Best to replace any of it that you are working with, with pex and the proper clamps. I had issues with our braided hose where water got between the 2 layers, there is an inner jacket and an outer layer. Water got between mine when under pressure and a couple days later caused the outer layer to swell and subsequently burst.
RV tech told me to yank that crap hose out and replace it with pex.
Your best bet for making your connections are the Shark Bites....a bit more expensive but they clamp down real good, and they can be taken apart if you need to without destroying them...my RV tech guy swears by them.

[donanddona]

If you have to winterize then you should remove the filter from the canister. Full timers need to replace this 3-4 times through the year. With the external type it makes the filter replacement easyier and the mess is always outside of the RV.

[Long Leaf Piners]

OUr filters were clogging quickly due to the wide range of water quality as we traveled this past summer. The inside canister had never had the filter put into place from the beginning; we used outside small filters...went through 3 this summer! I couldn't figure out a by-pass plug or plate. Old Timers said, when it comes to winterizing-take out the cartridge, put a plastic bottle in it and reconnect to lower the amount of antifreeze you need to put in. All too much trouble. So I opted to remove and replace with standard fitting from Lowes--without cutting any feed lines & worrying about additional leaks. Here's the finished layout. Took a couple of hours to get it all apart-easy to put back together. Now using the two-stage outside filters. (As for on-board tanks, I would still filter all water going into the tank with my externals--before pumping through the rig.)

[awellis3]

Originally Posted by donanddona

If you have to winterize then you should remove the filter from the canister.

Then you should seal it in a zipper bag and put it in the refrigerator, if you plan to re-install it, to prevent bacterial growth.
And since we cold-weather camp, we winterize 2-3 times a season. That's why I removed my on-board filter. I had nary a problem with the filter leaking or anything; it was just a PITA to winterize.
When I fill my fresh water tank (as we must do to winter camp), I use my outside filter.

[sail2liv]

Wow, here is what we have done...the dealer asked if we want the cartridge filter put in the big bowl....I still have the filter if needed, but said no to putting it in the bowl..
I use one of the blue external filters when I hook to outside water source after running the water a bit and then filling a glass to check it....hook pressure regulator and filter to the dedicated white hose that attaches to the camper.....we have been doing this for 3 years now and no problems.....when we fill the fresh water storage tank for on board water we use the same procedure but attach a impeller type gauge to see how much water we put in the tank and use the appropriate amount of Clorox based on the tables for treating drinking water....the has been no trash entering the bowl or at the tap filter discharge screen.....bottom line is all water entering the campers system is filtered and treated with Clorox....we use trailer year around and never have any empty tanks......we drain fresh water tank once a year and have no problems.....if buying a used camper I would recommend a test from a micro bac testing place to make sure no bad bugs are in system.....or even a new one.....the test is around $35 and is good peace of mind if you are drinking and cooking from your tanks.....Good luck to all.....