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Old 04-05-2017, 12:47 PM   #1
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Insulating the Hot Water Line

Was wondering if anyone has any experience with insulating their hot water line? Seems like the hot water cools off really fast at the kitchen sink which can lead to wasting water waiting for it to get hot. Have no idea how the water line is run or if it already has any insulation on my 2017 Rockwood 2618 VS.
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Old 04-05-2017, 12:59 PM   #2
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The lines are not insulated, but I'm not sure you'd help yourself a whole lot by just insulating them. You'd be better off insulating them and then installing a circulating loop from the sink back to the water heater. That way you'd always have pretty instant hot water.
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Old 04-05-2017, 01:22 PM   #3
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I had the same issue in a house. The run to the kitchen sink was so long that it took forever to get hot water. They sell a water reciruclator that hooks to the hot water heater and cycles the water in the line to prevent that cooling. Dont know if that would work on an rv?
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Old 04-05-2017, 03:08 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bama Rambler View Post
The lines are not insulated, but I'm not sure you'd help yourself a whole lot by just insulating them. You'd be better off insulating them and then installing a circulating loop from the sink back to the water heater. That way you'd always have pretty instant hot water.
Not sure but the recirculating system sounds like it would require that electricity stuff that is such short supply when dry camping. Thanks for the reply.
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Old 04-05-2017, 06:00 PM   #5
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wrapping the foam insulation wrap from the home store around the hot line would help a little. they usually come pre slit for retro installs some have a pre adhesive attached. usually two types of foam to choose from. should be regular 1/2 or 3/4 inch line. you can add the foam to pex/plastic line. dont know how much it will help? a little I suppose. Do the hot and cold and protect them from colder weather.
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Old 04-06-2017, 09:26 AM   #6
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The circulator pumps will require a little electricity, but it can be a really small pump. However, in a boondocking situation every watt is critical, so probably not a good idea in that situation.
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Old 04-06-2017, 09:52 AM   #7
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Thanks for the replies

This all depends on if the RV warranty service has to take the bottom apron off to fix what ever is causing by furnace to short cycle on the limit switch. Some of the black foam insulation might help but it wouldn't be enough to be the only reason to take the cover off. I imagine it comes off pretty easily but might be a little difficult to get back on there. It just seems odd that my new Rockwood that is supposed to be a premium unit doesn't seem to be as well insulated as my old 1995 Kit Road Ranger. Guess that's progress for you.
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Old 04-06-2017, 04:39 PM   #8
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I did the split foam insulation on all hot and cold lines that I could access. Helps with heat loss some but also helps to quiet the plumbing when the pump is running.
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Old 04-06-2017, 11:36 PM   #9
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I faced the same issue, which is particularly troublesome when dry camping (water usage and consuming gray tank capacity). I tapped off the hot water supply line below the kitchen faucet (with a T) and directed an added PEX line through a 12 volt solenoid valve and back to the fresh water tank. The 12 volt power to the solenoid is sourced from the switched side of the water pump switch and then through a momentary-on push button switch. Thus the solenoid can only be switched on when the fresh water pump is powered. Before I turn on the hot water faucet, I press the momentary push button for about 10 seconds, which allows the pump to move water in the hot water supply through the loop back to the fresh tank. Releasing the push button switch turns off the solenoid valve and allows the circulated hot water to be pressurized and available at the faucet. An added advantage is the fresh water tank can be heated to some extent in colder weather to prevent freezing (utilizing propane via the hot water heater vs. electric tank heaters).
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Old 04-07-2017, 07:55 AM   #10
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Wow! I'm impressed! Great idea.
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Old 04-07-2017, 08:24 AM   #11
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You will need to drop the "Belly Cover" to access the water lines,Low to NO heat in the under floor area! You have two sinks in Kit so place a container in one side and "Catch" the water before it becomes Hot! Use this captured Water for Toilet flushing or other needs,No need to let it fill up your Gray tank and waste Fresh water! PS and it Costs nothing and NO mods needed! Youroo!!
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