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Old 05-14-2021, 01:42 PM   #1
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Just a thought for cleaning tank sensors

This may be a silly question but here goes. Why couldn't a person half fill his grey water tanks, add dish detergent or some other such chemical and then apply air back up through the drain pipes in order to agitate the solution? Are the tanks vented through the roof and if so would they allow air to freely pass out with out building up pressure in the tank? Worse case scenario it should come past the P traps. Would this be a dangerous practice? In my mind it would certainly create more turbulence than driving around the block. I would only do this on thoroughly flushed tanks that seems to have crud on sensors. A special adapter would have to be made to fit on drain cap to allow air line to be hooked up. Would love to hear other opinions. If you think I'm an imbecile please don't make it too obvious.
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Old 05-14-2021, 02:18 PM   #2
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The drain exits into the tank from the top.

Your method might help in dislodging a drain clog but probably wouldn't help much in cleaning tank sensors.

I recently became aware of a company that makes a suite of products to address holding tank issues and I'm going to start using them going forward. They make the claim that many of the methods that are out there today are not designed to work together and in fact are counter productive.

I used their tank cleaner product to fix an issue with a poo pyramid that had formed over the years in a camper we just bought. It was used at a seasonal site and had never been emptied for several years. (They left the sewer valve open so it didn't fill with fluids). Worked like a charm..

Take a look at their videos. Makes sense to me.

https://uniquecampingmarine.com
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Old 05-14-2021, 04:50 PM   #3
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Originally Posted by 007matman View Post
The drain exits into the tank from the top.

Your method might help in dislodging a drain clog but probably wouldn't help much in cleaning tank sensors.

I recently became aware of a company that makes a suite of products to address holding tank issues and I'm going to start using them going forward. They make the claim that many of the methods that are out there today are not designed to work together and in fact are counter productive.

I used their tank cleaner product to fix an issue with a poo pyramid that had formed over the years in a camper we just bought. It was used at a seasonal site and had never been emptied for several years. (They left the sewer valve open so it didn't fill with fluids). Worked like a charm..

Take a look at their videos. Makes sense to me.

https://uniquecampingmarine.com
For those new to RV's leaving the black tank dump valve open is the worst thing you can do. The water runs out but the poo stays behind right where it drops in the tank.

Learning the hard way about the infamous poop pyramid is something which comes up at least once a year from newbies.

matman, I know you have been around for million years so hope you don't think I'm directing this at you.
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Old 05-14-2021, 05:44 PM   #4
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For those new to RV's leaving the black tank dump valve open is the worst thing you can do. The water runs out but the poo stays behind right where it drops in the tank.

Learning the hard way about the infamous poop pyramid is something which comes up at least once a year from newbies.

matman, I know you have been around for million years so hope you don't think I'm directing this at you.
Agreed.. LOL. Thanks for the clarification. I was like.. you never cleaned out the black tank? He was like.. I didn't need to. We always kept the valve open. Face to palm..

It was a really nice camper stored under a car port so I took may chances. So far so good.
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Old 05-14-2021, 06:01 PM   #5
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It's really not too difficult. First use a good product in the tank to break down waste. I prefer an enzyme. Never ever leave the black tank valve open when sitting in one place. Leave it closed and dump the tank occasionally. If you are traveling, leave a few gallons of water in the black tank to slosh around, it will break don solids. And if you have a tank flush fitting use it when you can, it doesn't have to be flushed every time if you maintain the system properly.
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Old 05-14-2021, 07:43 PM   #6
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Thanks guys but I am not having a problem with a poo pyramid, or plugged drains. It is the sensors in all three waste tanks. I suspect there is a soap scum on the grey tanks as they will never seem to read empty unless they are allowed to totally dry out. The black is similar. All I was asking is if the air would create a great enough agitation combined with a product to thoroughly clean the inside of the tank without causing any damage. Is this product your promoting available in Canada? There are a few products on the market that are great at cleaning out your wallet and not much else. Possibly if the liquid was sloshed around a bit they might perform better. I have time on my hands with no place to go due to covid so thought I might try something here in my yard.

P.S. I am talking about sending air back up the outside drain, not the drain inside the trailer.
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Old 05-14-2021, 07:51 PM   #7
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The best and safest way to clean any tank is to take it for a long ride , I do not join the line at the dump station when leaving a campground , I dump when I arrive at the next campground , no lines in the afternoon .
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Old 05-14-2021, 10:20 PM   #8
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Originally Posted by Holmes2016 View Post
Thanks guys but I am not having a problem with a poo pyramid, or plugged drains. It is the sensors in all three waste tanks. I suspect there is a soap scum on the grey tanks as they will never seem to read empty unless they are allowed to totally dry out. The black is similar. All I was asking is if the air would create a great enough agitation combined with a product to thoroughly clean the inside of the tank without causing any damage. Is this product your promoting available in Canada? There are a few products on the market that are great at cleaning out your wallet and not much else. Possibly if the liquid was sloshed around a bit they might perform better. I have time on my hands with no place to go due to covid so thought I might try something here in my yard.

P.S. I am talking about sending air back up the outside drain, not the drain inside the trailer.
Unique products are available on Amazon. Not sure about Canada.. not sure if I have a way I can tell. If it were me, if they the tank cleaner first and if that didn't take care of it, I'd try the sensor cleaner next.

Tank cleaner
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0741QNNZB...X0AD1MW2RZ2K3E

Sensor cleaner
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0741NL8S5...ing=UTF8&psc=1
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Old 05-15-2021, 06:31 AM   #9
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I use this. It's called Pure Power Blue. I get it from Amazon in the 128 ounce bottle. It works for me.
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Old 05-15-2021, 12:54 PM   #10
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Before we leave a camp site, we drain our tanks and add one dish washer pack 8ng our black and gray water tanks. Add about 3 gallons of water on each. As you travel this should clean your censors. Works for us
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Old 05-15-2021, 01:55 PM   #11
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Originally Posted by Sunseeker16 View Post
It's really not too difficult. First use a good product in the tank to break down waste. I prefer an enzyme. Never ever leave the black tank valve open when sitting in one place. Leave it closed and dump the tank occasionally. If you are traveling, leave a few gallons of water in the black tank to slosh around, it will break don solids. And if you have a tank flush fitting use it when you can, it doesn't have to be flushed every time if you maintain the system properly.
X2. We use a 1/4 cup of Walmart branded RID-X ($5.00), to 10 gallons of water. Never have any problem with the sensors or stuck waste.
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Old 05-15-2021, 03:05 PM   #12
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I read that it's a good idea to travel with some water in the black tank. It also said to never add bleach to this water -Why?
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Old 05-15-2021, 03:06 PM   #13
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Smile Cleaning Tank Sensors

007matman suggested going to:

https://uniquecampingmarine.com for tank cleaning products. The website shows a variety of products.

Which specific products were you recommending?
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Old 05-15-2021, 03:12 PM   #14
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I read that it's a good idea to travel with some water in the black tank. It also said to never add bleach to this water -Why?
I added bleach to my black tank once. It didn't like that chemical I used previously. Cheap stuff. I had smoke from a chemical reaction coming out of every vent that was connected to that tank.
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Old 05-15-2021, 03:17 PM   #15
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OK, Thanks Sunseeker 16
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Old 05-15-2021, 03:26 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sunseeker16 View Post
It's really not too difficult. First use a good product in the tank to break down waste. I prefer an enzyme. Never ever leave the black tank valve open when sitting in one place. Leave it closed and dump the tank occasionally. If you are traveling, leave a few gallons of water in the black tank to slosh around, it will break don solids. And if you have a tank flush fitting use it when you can, it doesn't have to be flushed every time if you maintain the system properly.
Even when on a seasonal site or set up on private property use your black tank as it is intended. Add about 5 gallons of water and waste treatment then never dump a tank unless it's 3/4 full or more.
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Old 05-15-2021, 03:27 PM   #17
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YEARS ago, I read a recommendation by an RVer who added liquid Automatic Dishwasher Detergent to his tanks. He would do this BEFORE he would be driving so that the motion would agitate the liquids in both black & grey tanks. Said detergent is MUCH stronger that "regular" dishwashing liquid you'd use at the sink and works GREAT at breaking up "GUNK" and generally cleaning the tank walls. I tried it and, it has worked very well for me. You don't need to use much, just a few ounces. A "club size" bottle of "Cascade" lasts a LONG time.
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Old 05-15-2021, 03:40 PM   #18
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I read that it's a good idea to travel with some water in the black tank. It also said to never add bleach to this water -Why?
As all urine contains a certain amount of ammonia, you never want to add chlorine to ammonia. It turns into hydrochloric acid and emits a noxious chlorine gas. Secondly, chlorine kills the needed bacteria and enzymes in sewage tanks and systems in order to break down waste.
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Old 05-15-2021, 04:45 PM   #19
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And...

Quote:
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Even when on a seasonal site or set up on private property use your black tank as it is intended. Add about 5 gallons of water and waste treatment then never dump a tank unless it's 3/4 full or more.
And put a few gallons (a few inches of water) in the tank after draining (except when freezing weather is anticipated). This prevents the pyramid from starting via those first few uses before there's enough water to prevent them.

Without being too graphic, if you hear "plop" instead of "splash," you haven't got enough water in it.
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Old 05-15-2021, 05:38 PM   #20
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Been using the GEO (get everything out) method successfully then recently came across a YouTube by TR Bolín “Bio-GEO” that is excellent. Highly recommend folks check it out. Great explanation of what works and why. Made a believer out of me. Simple products readily available as well as what not to use and why.
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