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Old 10-04-2020, 08:57 AM   #21
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Attila,

Looking at the last photo posted, (marked filter removal attempt) it 'appears' you are turning the the wrench in the wrong direction.

From the way the wrench is cocked on the housing and the position of your hand on the wrench handle, it seems you are tightening and not loosening.
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Old 10-04-2020, 09:10 AM   #22
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Pull handle in direction of arrow to loosen.Click image for larger version

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Old 10-04-2020, 09:25 AM   #23
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Originally Posted by TitanMike View Post
I don't think the pictured model has the ratchet locks. My 2018 didn't. When researching replacement parts there are clearly two different canisters. Some with, some without.
Thanks for that info! I was not aware of the new models without the teeth.
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Old 10-04-2020, 10:28 AM   #24
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Yes, the original housing / canister was the FR1 and it had the locking teeth. The one pictured is the replacement RCS housing / canister. You cannot use the RCS with an older FR1 housing. The RCS canister does not have the locking teeth so I am wondering why it is so difficult to remove.

Both the FR1 and the RCS use the same KW1 filter cartridge.

I know there are a lot of negative posts about these filters but in 6 years of ownership we have not had any issues with our FR1 / KW1.

Yes, remove the filter cartridge before pumping antifreeze into the system. Similarly, if you have a residential refrigerator with a filter in it, remove it also.
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Old 10-04-2020, 11:07 AM   #25
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Yes, the original housing / canister was the FR1 and it had the locking teeth. The one pictured is the replacement RCS housing / canister. You cannot use the RCS with an older FR1 housing. The RCS canister does not have the locking teeth so I am wondering why it is so difficult to remove.

Both the FR1 and the RCS use the same KW1 filter cartridge.

I know there are a lot of negative posts about these filters but in 6 years of ownership we have not had any issues with our FR1 / KW1.

Yes, remove the filter cartridge before pumping antifreeze into the system. Similarly, if you have a residential refrigerator with a filter in it, remove it also.
If I had a residential refrigerator with icemaker and water dispenser I think I'd want to just blow it out with air to winterize rather than use antifreeze. Depending on fridge design there is too much opportunity for antifreeze to remain in the system (holding tank for cold water in fridge) and would be hard to flush out completely.
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Old 10-04-2020, 11:34 AM   #26
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Water Filter Canister - I give up!

Thanks for all the good replies. I think my best bet is to take it back to the dealer and let THEM remove the canister. That way, if anything breaks it's on them to fix it.
Will also discuss replacing the RCS with a cheaper/easier filter system.
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Old 10-04-2020, 11:40 AM   #27
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Actually I like the idea of having the dealer do it. But watch what they do. I still don’t understand why a housing without the locking teeth isn’t coming off.
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Old 10-04-2020, 11:57 AM   #28
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Actually I like the idea of having the dealer do it. But watch what they do. I still donít understand why a housing without the locking teeth isnít coming off.
I'm guessing the Flagstaff factory overtightened it to the point of "welding" the O-ring in place.

Checklist item for next camper purchase: during the walkaround, have the tech demonstrate loosening the filter canister!
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Old 10-04-2020, 01:26 PM   #29
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Originally Posted by 5picker View Post
Attila,

Looking at the last photo posted, (marked filter removal attempt) it 'appears' you are turning the the wrench in the wrong direction.

From the way the wrench is cocked on the housing and the position of your hand on the wrench handle, it seems you are tightening and not loosening.
Good catch! But it was just appearances. The space is so tight that this was the only way I could hold the wrench in one hand and the phone/camera in the other.
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Old 10-04-2020, 03:09 PM   #30
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Sound like whoever installed filter gorilla tightened it. Mine was winterized from dealer, they never put the filter element in, or antifreeze, just compressed air purged. I would not put antifreeze in with filter element installed. I've never even used the filter element, just the blue bullet on the hose. When you finally get it off, hopefully gasket is not deformed. I just tighten mine enough by hand, no wrench, so it's not leaking.



Quote:
Originally Posted by Attila the Pun View Post
Thanks for all the good replies. I think my best bet is to take it back to the dealer and let THEM remove the canister. That way, if anything breaks it's on them to fix it.
Will also discuss replacing the RCS with a cheaper/easier filter system.
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Old 10-04-2020, 04:04 PM   #31
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Has anyone just removed the filter element and run the system without the filter ? We always use a portable hose filter anyway as it keeps the sediment out of the tank.
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Old 10-04-2020, 04:42 PM   #32
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Has anyone just removed the filter element and run the system without the filter ? We always use a portable hose filter anyway as it keeps the sediment out of the tank.
Yes, there are reports of this, in fact, just a post prior to yours NJKris says he does this.

Many more have removed the filter AND housing, tied the plumbing lines together and simply use some sort of filter outside.
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Old 10-04-2020, 05:15 PM   #33
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yup, as picker said. I left the canister in place in case I ever need to add double filtration. But use the blue torpedo on the hose, even when filling fresh tank.
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Old 10-04-2020, 05:34 PM   #34
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Originally Posted by 5picker View Post
Yes, there are reports of this, in fact, just a post prior to yours NJKris says he does this.

Many more have removed the filter AND housing, tied the plumbing lines together and simply use some sort of filter outside.
X2.
Check out post #6,
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Old 10-04-2020, 05:58 PM   #35
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Sorry getting lazy and didnít read all the post carefully. With filter removed, is the water flow any better? Will a little Vaseline on the seal help with removal next time?
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Old 10-04-2020, 06:03 PM   #36
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It seam like a waste to fill that canister with antifreeze!
Last year I put a empty water bottle in it to take up space to save a little antifreeze!
WARNING - If you use a plastic water bottle filled with antifreeze make SURE you insert it upside down in the canister. If you put the bottle in with the cap up, any trapped air in the bottle will allow the bottle to float up and PLUG the outlet of the filter.

Once you turn on the pump it will jam the bottle into the outlet and you will not get flow to the rest of the camper.

DON'T ask how I know this....

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Old 10-04-2020, 06:05 PM   #37
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ANY water pressure will prevent the rotation of the plastic housing.

MAKE SURE there is no pressure at all before trying to remove the canister.
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Old 10-04-2020, 08:58 PM   #38
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Sorry getting lazy and didnít read all the post carefully. With filter removed, is the water flow any better? Will a little Vaseline on the seal help with removal next time?
The "seal" is an O-Ring and the probable reason the canister is stuck. All too often people over-tighten thinking more tight will seal better. If an O-ring is leaking it is usually because it's got a nick in it, it's been crushed, or the groove it rests in has imperfections.

On my filter canister I use Faucet Stem Grease that's sold in big box stores in small tubes. It's ccompatible with potable water systems and helps insure a seal with the O-Ring as well as letting the canister get stuck.

Here's the stuff Home Depot Sells.



When I remove my canister (once per year) I make sure the groove is clean, he O-ring has no damage, then I put some of this grease in the O-ring groove. I then put the O-ring in the greased groove, run my finger around the top of the O-ring which seats it in the groove and wipes off excessive grease. Then install.
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Old 10-04-2020, 10:11 PM   #39
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Originally Posted by TitanMike View Post
The "seal" is an O-Ring and the probable reason the canister is stuck. All too often people over-tighten thinking more tight will seal better. If an O-ring is leaking it is usually because it's got a nick in it, it's been crushed, or the groove it rests in has imperfections.

On my filter canister I use Faucet Stem Grease that's sold in big box stores in small tubes. It's ccompatible with potable water systems and helps insure a seal with the O-Ring as well as letting the canister get stuck.

Here's the stuff Home Depot Sells.



When I remove my canister (once per year) I make sure the groove is clean, he O-ring has no damage, then I put some of this grease in the O-ring groove. I then put the O-ring in the greased groove, run my finger around the top of the O-ring which seats it in the groove and wipes off excessive grease. Then install.
Thanks. I have a tube of silcone grease. Will give it a try if I keep the filter housing in. today I took off the cabinet cover and moved the pex and white hoses out of the way to get a good view of what was entailed to remove the filter housing for another filter with cheaper filters or remove it all together. I tried to take it apart and the brass fitting female with barb had the washer disintegrate. Not I have to figure out where to get a replacement. Brass fitting has to be lead free for potable water. Looks like it's a 1/2"barb x 1/2" female. I see I can order something similar from Lowes but it doesn't come with a washer and uses tape I think.
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Old 10-05-2020, 02:54 PM   #40
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Took it to the dealer (Camping World). A tech agreed that it's better for me if they break it than if I do. Then he banged on it until it finally came loose (without breaking anything)!
Got home and finished winterizing - no sweat. No leaks around the canister. But gonna get some of that silicone grease and apply it next spring when I "summerize" and put the filter back in.
Thanks for all the help and tips, guys!
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