Leaking grey water at tank outlet.
We have a 2013 SilverBack 29RE. While camping the other weekend, we noticed a drip from the bottom of the trailer, right over the axles. We suspected it was a grey water tank leak.
When we returned home, we called the dealer to schedule an appointment. They could not get the trailer in for 7 weeks. We could not wait that long as we have several trips planned in that time frame. So we set out to repair it ourselves.
We first drained all the tanks. We then filled the fresh water tank up and turned the water pump on to pressurize all the hoses, just incase it was a hose leaking. We let the unit set overnight and in the morning there we not any drips out of the bottom of the trailer.
We then filled up the #2 grey water tank that the kitchen sink drains into. When the tank was about 3/4 full we heard a loud "woosh" and all the water just about instantly drained to the ground from under the trailer.
So we pulled out the plastic panel under the axle and the one forward and aft of the axle. We threw away all the wet insulation and of course replaced it with dry insulation.
What we found is where the grey water tanks plumbing exits the tank it goes forward toward the front of the trailer about 1 foot or so before it loops 180 degrees and returns back to the sink. The loop goes across a 1" x 1" piece of steel angle. The outlet of the tank is about 1/8" lower than the loop as it has to go up hill over the piece of 1" x 1" steel angle. The plastic fitting in the line broke where it goes into the tank.
When built they used a plastic reducer bushing inside the plastic fitting to connect the two together. The reducer bushing is about 3.5" in diameter and about 1" long. The bushing split right at the outlet of the tank, simply cracked in two.
There is no way to get the glued in bushing reducer out of either piece. We did not want to repair it the same way it was made as it would simply happen again.
So we did some measuring. The outlet of the tank is about 3.875" as is the pipe that it connects to. We went to a local hose shop and purchased a piece of 4" rubber hose and clamps along with a pre-made hose to fit the 1.5" Id plastic pipe that runs back to the sink.
With parts in hand, we cut the return plastic pipe about 2' down stream from the broken part. We cleaned up the ends, installed the 4" hose and clamps as well as the pre-made coupler. We put the pipe back in, tightened up the clamps and leak tested the joints by putting 10 gallons of water down the #2 drain (kitchen sink) and let it sit overnight. No leaks or drips. I forgot to mention that we used some rubber fushion tape on both of the 3.875" parts to bring the diameter up to just under 4" We placed the one clamp so it rests on the offending 1 x 1 steel angle and used the left over hose on the return pipe where it crosses the angle going rearward.
While we had the bottom open, we did the usual bundled wires and get them off of steel framing along with the hydraulic hoses for the slides. One would think that they could spend another $50.00 on wire and run the wires though common wire looms, running down each side of the trailer.
We have the plumbing repaired for under $20.00 and another $40.00 for insulation and a few TyWraps from the tool box.