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Old 10-27-2019, 11:15 PM   #21
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Usually the low point drains show some pex. If enough is showing go to your local HW store and buy sharkbite connectors with the fittings you want. This is a very minor plumbing project. The hardest part will be surfing the various parts for what you want.

I like the idea of valve's inside the trailer as it protects from freezing a bit better and makes them accessible.
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Old 10-28-2019, 08:12 AM   #22
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Originally Posted by Brother Les View Post
Your fresh water tank should not 'fill up' if you are only on city water. If it does, you have an issue somewhere.
I'm not sure who you are responding to here. Who mentioned anything about the fresh water tank filling up?
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Old 10-31-2019, 06:32 PM   #23
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Has anybody considered replacing the caps with valves or actually accomplished that?

Ray
Yes, I used common ball valves from hardware store. So much easier.
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Old 10-31-2019, 07:03 PM   #24
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I had the same problem earlier in the year, just before I took my TT in for the yearly inspection. I had tightened the cap very tight and it didn't stop. I mentioned that leak with a couple of other small concerns. I found out that the cap had lost the rubber gasket and the leak was fixed with a new one.
Loose the caos and install ball valves.
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Old 10-31-2019, 08:09 PM   #25
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Don't forget filter canister

From personal experience...you can drain all the faucets, tanks and low point drains until the cows come home, but don't forget the water filter as I did last year. Thought I was A-Ok until I opened up the filter compartment and found the filter and broken-at-the-rim canister sitting right-side up on the floor and full of water. Had to buy a new canister ($45+), ouch. This year, I also drained the little screen filter on the water pump itself. Good luck everybody.
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Old 10-31-2019, 11:11 PM   #26
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Has anybody considered replacing the caps with valves or actually accomplished that?

Ray
I found this video on YouTube.
https://youtu.be/TMIy7S3EKoc.
I'll be doing it on mine for sure
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