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Old 03-02-2021, 04:15 PM   #1
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Low to zero flow to toilet

I have been having issues with my toilet in my Georgetown where crystals accumulate in the feedline screen to the toilet drastically reducing flow in the bowl. I have removed the line connection and to the the best of my ability remove the accumulation of crystals, reconnect and use toilet.

Questions on how to best deal with this.
1) how can I eliminate the formation of these crystals? and
2) is the screen removable to enable a more thorough cleaning?

Thanks
Scott
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Old 03-02-2021, 04:33 PM   #2
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I had the exact same problem the entire time we had our Georgetown. I believe the source is from the water heater, and you’ll want to check the aerator screens of your taps also.

However, between an inspection mirror, some eye glass screwdrivers and the vacuum, I could clean it up in minutes. You don’t want to damage the screen and allow that crud to travel any further.
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Old 03-02-2021, 04:50 PM   #3
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I had the exact same problem the entire time we had our Georgetown. I believe the source is from the water heater, and youíll want to check the aerator screens of your taps also.

However, between an inspection mirror, some eye glass screwdrivers and the vacuum, I could clean it up in minutes. You donít want to damage the screen and allow that crud to travel any further.
I have done the same, but do you know if the screen is removable? I am a little apprehensive of attempting to use pliers to pull on lip of screen.
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Old 03-02-2021, 05:01 PM   #4
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Most likely these are accumulating from the water heater.
If you fail to shut the bypass valves isolating the heater before opening low-point drains you will suck a lot of this out into the water lines.
You can also get some anytime you open a faucet without water pressure as it can pull some out of the heater.
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Old 03-02-2021, 06:19 PM   #5
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This is the Dometic toilet strainer (screen) looking in through the water line hook-up that is not removable. I use a tooth pick to get the crud out.
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Old 03-02-2021, 06:25 PM   #6
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Had the same issue on my FR3, only way I stopped it was to run all my water through a 2 stage filter system. Not one of those blue torpedo Camco ones

I made it easier and installed quick connects on all the inputs and hoses

https://www.clearsourcerv.com/

Nothing goes in my tanks without passing through this. Both for my health and my RV plumbing
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Old 03-02-2021, 06:26 PM   #7
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If you can soak it in white vinegar, it'll take care of it. Some fittings from home Depot or a baggie strategically zip tied or something. If it's ongoing, I'd get a beer-bong type setup and keep it on hand.
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Old 03-03-2021, 12:46 PM   #8
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Even had similar happen to me in my Wolf Pup 16BHS. Take out every screen and clean them out. They seemed like small white plastic flecks. I got a lot of gunk out of the water heater using one of those Camco water heater wands. Some were the size of fingernails, like a coating came loose.
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Old 03-03-2021, 03:51 PM   #9
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You know the little inline filter just downstream of your pump (the one with a screw-on jar)? Put one of those inline on the INLET side of your water heater - it will catch any crud coming out of the heater when backflow occurs.
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Old 03-03-2021, 04:54 PM   #10
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Originally Posted by geoff270ssf View Post
You know the little inline filter just downstream of your pump (the one with a screw-on jar)? Put one of those inline on the INLET side of your water heater - it will catch any crud coming out of the heater when backflow occurs.
Amazon sells these:



https://www.amazon.com/Female-Strain.../dp/B00BGFOFEA

$11.25 and it will save you many times that in headache remedies

If not easy to add to inlet of water heater and the toilet feed line can be more easily accessed, install it there. On my TT installing it on inlet to water heater is almost impossible due to the installation of the winterizing bypass and lack of remaining space.

BTW, the manufacturer rates these for 150psi @70 degrees F and 100 psi at 100 degrees F

In the past some have questioned whether or not they would handle pressure as they are most commonly seen on the suction side of the pump.
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Old 03-04-2021, 12:10 PM   #11
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Amazon sells these:



https://www.amazon.com/Female-Strain.../dp/B00BGFOFEA

$11.25 and it will save you many times that in headache remedies

If not easy to add to inlet of water heater and the toilet feed line can be more easily accessed, install it there. On my TT installing it on inlet to water heater is almost impossible due to the installation of the winterizing bypass and lack of remaining space.

BTW, the manufacturer rates these for 150psi @70 degrees F and 100 psi at 100 degrees F

In the past some have questioned whether or not they would handle pressure as they are most commonly seen on the suction side of the pump.
We have a Dometic 310 toilet. In their infinite wisdom the designers didn't allow for easy removal of the strainer - it's part of the flush valve. So the valve has to be removed to clean the strainer, and it's nearly impossible to get the valve out without completely removing the toilet. Nice going, guys!
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Old 03-04-2021, 12:35 PM   #12
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Originally Posted by geoff270ssf View Post
We have a Dometic 310 toilet. In their infinite wisdom the designers didn't allow for easy removal of the strainer - it's part of the flush valve. So the valve has to be removed to clean the strainer, and it's nearly impossible to get the valve out without completely removing the toilet. Nice going, guys!
The engineers that designed this toilet took their cue from automotive engineers that never gave any consideration for maintenance/repairs on engines. Once installed in the engine compartment some engines are impossible to even change spark plugs on.

I ran into one early in my career, a Shelby GT500 with the big-block engine. Spark plug changes required HOURS of work, just to be able to get a wrench on a spark plug.

One thing though, the Air, Oil, and Fuel filters WERE accessible unlike on the 310 toilet

FWIW, on my TT the water line to the toilet is more accessible under the vanity sink, at the floor. That's where I'd install the filter.

A note however, if one drains the hot water tank by removing the anode rod versus just opening low point drains, the white crud won't get sucked back into the cold water line. When winterizing drain the hot water tank first, set winterizing valves to bypass hot water tank, then open low point drains.
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Old 03-05-2021, 11:26 AM   #13
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Originally Posted by geoff270ssf View Post
We have a Dometic 310 toilet. In their infinite wisdom the designers didn't allow for easy removal of the strainer - it's part of the flush valve. So the valve has to be removed to clean the strainer, and it's nearly impossible to get the valve out without completely removing the toilet. Nice going, guys!
I did remove my toilet to clean the strainer. Itís the equivalent of having to remove a truck engine to change the oil filter. ITS A FILTER, it should be readily accessible!
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Old 03-05-2021, 02:36 PM   #14
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I did remove my toilet to clean the strainer. Itís the equivalent of having to remove a truck engine to change the oil filter. ITS A FILTER, it should be readily accessible!
But with only two bolts and a single water fitting. Yes, a PITA but a much smaller pita than removing a truck engine.



FWIW, I have tons and tons of time on my hands. A project like cleaning this filter only takes about 30 minutes total. Now I need to find other tasks to fill my day
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Old 03-05-2021, 02:45 PM   #15
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But with only two bolts and a single water fitting. Yes, a PITA but a much smaller pita than removing a truck engine.



FWIW, I have tons and tons of time on my hands. A project like cleaning this filter only takes about 30 minutes total. Now I need to find other tasks to fill my day
To bad you're not closer to my rig in NorCal, I have tons of projects and no time
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Old 03-05-2021, 02:57 PM   #16
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To bad you're not closer to my rig in NorCal, I have tons of projects and no time
That was me before I retired 17 years ago.
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