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Old 12-24-2022, 02:23 PM   #1
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Moved toilet

Has anyone tried to move the toilet flange further away from the wall to mount a different toilet? Have a aqua magic 4 now and the center of flange is 8.25 inches from the back wall. I did not know this and the domestic 310 I ordered is 9.50.

Any suggestions or do I just get another aqua magic?
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Old 12-24-2022, 03:20 PM   #2
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Originally Posted by HONDAMAN174 View Post
Has anyone tried to move the toilet flange further away from the wall to mount a different toilet? Have a aqua magic 4 now and the center of flange is 8.25 inches from the back wall. I did not know this and the domestic 310 I ordered is 9.50.

Any suggestions or do I just get another aqua magic?
The Road Runner is the only person I know who can pick up a hole and move it. It’ll be interesting to see some good suggestions.
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Old 12-24-2022, 03:20 PM   #3
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Well...

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Originally Posted by HONDAMAN174 View Post
Has anyone tried to move the toilet flange further away from the wall to mount a different toilet? Have a aqua magic 4 now and the center of flange is 8.25 inches from the back wall. I did not know this and the domestic 310 I ordered is 9.50.

Any suggestions or do I just get another aqua magic?
Well, the first question is whether the current flange is directly over the tank or there is an elbow below the flange. If you hold the flusher open and use a flashlight, can you see the water in the tank? Or just an elbow below the flange?

If you can see water, you will have to go underneath and see if you can move the tank in the needed direction. You then have two options: leave the dump valve in place and redo the plumbing between tank and drain valve, OR leave the dump valve connected to the black tank and redo the plumbing going to the gray tank. (The easiest way to handle this is to take apart the plumbing at the valve(s). Each valve is a simple sandwich held together with four screws. To get the freedom of motion you need, take apart the valve(s), move the tank, and re-plumb to put the valves back together.

If there is an elbow below the flange, you have a third option: disconnect the plumbing between flange and black tank, move the flange, and re-do the plumbing between flange and tank.
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Old 12-24-2022, 07:41 PM   #4
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If you have room to get to it, an offset closet flange from Lowe's will do what you need
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Old 12-24-2022, 09:44 PM   #5
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Great idea!

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If you have room to get to it, an offset closet flange from Lowe's will do what you need
Great idea! Much better than my proposal. Need to figure out how much room you need and buy a flange with the right amount of offset. With luck you can do it all from the top.

The current down-pipe is probably ABS. If you re-use it, it's best to use an ABS flange. Home Depot has a wide range of choices.

If the tank is flush with (touching) the bottom side of the floor there may not be room for one of these flanges unless you build a platform above the floor (some 2x4 segments and plywood). Then you can really call it a "throne."
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Old 12-25-2022, 10:38 AM   #6
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I had to move the flange away when I changed my toilet. It was off by only about a 1/2". But, 1/2" might as well be a foot.
Just cut the 3" ABS pipe, shortened it and used a coupling to join the drain back together.
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Old 12-25-2022, 12:01 PM   #7
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I replaced my Aqua Magic IV with the Dometic 310. The flange that holds the toilet to the floor had to be turned 90 degrees. You will also need a new hose to connect the water. I had plenty of space behind the toilet so that was not an issue on my install. Good Luck!
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Old 12-25-2022, 12:03 PM   #8
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Works great if...

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I had to move the flange away when I changed my toilet. It was off by only about a 1/2". But, 1/2" might as well be a foot.
Just cut the 3" ABS pipe, shortened it and used a coupling to join the drain back together.
Works great if the flange isn't directly above the tank with a straight-down drop.
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Old 12-25-2022, 12:54 PM   #9
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Works great if the flange isn't directly above the tank with a straight-down drop.
Yeah, thankfully the line drains on a 45deg on my Cardinal so it was pretty easy.
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Old 01-30-2023, 01:48 PM   #10
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So was finally able to attack this project. Once the flange was removed with a cutting wheel I was able to see that this mounts directly into the tank with only 6.5” inches from top of flange to inlet of tank. Can’t use a normal offset flange due to depth so I went with this shallow one that is more oval. Used saws all to gently cut old pipe length wise and broke out the pieces to luckily find out they did not use cement to hold it to the tank. Sprayed soapy water and new pipe slid in and a little RTV at the top to seal to the flange. Now the new problem was the new flange is oval and RV toilet gaskets are just foam so the seal didn’t cover the rear 2”. Grabbed some polycarbonate scraps from Lowe’s and RTV a cover across those 2” and notched it to line up with the toilet discharge. PERFECT!!

The hardest part was had to relocate the water in line to a 90 degree and the PEx was rock hard and not working well. 2 more thrips to Lowe’s and a shark bite elbow and disconnect tool got it back together.

Afterwords had to soak all cloth materials in the trailer cause smelled like sewer for the toilet being off for so long. Click image for larger version

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Hope this helps someone in the future
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Old 01-30-2023, 02:51 PM   #11
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Thoughts

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The hardest part was had to relocate the water in line to a 90 degree and the PEX was rock hard and not working well. 2 more thrips to Lowe’s and a shark bite elbow and disconnect tool got it back together.
You can create a pretty tight 90º bend in PEX if you heat it with a heat gun. Be sure to heat it all the way around and to bend carefully so you don't kink it.
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Afterwards had to soak all cloth materials in the trailer cause smelled like sewer for the toilet being off for so long.

Hope this helps someone in the future
Good practice is to block the opening. In this case, a ball of crumpled up newspaper in a plastic bag would work. Or a partially filled balloon wedged into the opening.
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Old 01-30-2023, 05:13 PM   #12
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Had a rag stuffed in there but might have been hyper- sensitive about it.

As for bending the PEX, way too stiff as it was 10 years old. Put an elbow on it and drink a beer.
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Old 01-30-2023, 05:25 PM   #13
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19 years?

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Had a rag stuffed in there but might have been hyper- sensitive about it.

As for bending the PEX, way too stiff as it was 10 years old. Put an elbow on it and drink a beer.
Another elbow is two more places for a potential leak.

I am gradually rebuilding DW's dowry, a 2002 Northwood Nash 22-footer. When I put the new flooring in it, about 3-4 years ago, I cleaned up the sloppy job some redneck had done replacing the toilet. He had hacked a huge hole in the pipe raceway at the base behind the toilet because the new toilet had its inlet on the opposite side and the PEX was stiff.

I took that same piece of PEX and put two bends in it to make an offset, with DW holding the heat gun and me rotating the pipe until it softened. This permitted a very small hole in the raceway which looked much better. Try it on a scrap of PEX, you'll see.

I've also done this with 1-1/2" white PVC drain pipe which is rigid and probably 3/16" thick. I didn't have a heat gun then (1979), but used a propane torch, holding it just far enough away from the pipe that there was no scorching.
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