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Old 10-08-2012, 12:56 PM   #1
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Need to replace SW10DE Thermostat

Does anyone know how to replace a thermostat on at Suburban SW10DE water heater? The thermostat in mine definitely has a blown fuse link. Do I need to drain the tank or is it just something that sits up against the tank? I just don't want a surprise when I go to take it off and I don't want to waste time draining it if I don't have to. Thanks in advance.
John
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Old 10-09-2012, 07:11 AM   #2
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The threaded bolt holds the thermostat directly against the side of the tank.
(No penetration) If the bolt is loose it could cause overly hot water; then when it touches the tank it could open.

Replacement is simply removing the nut and the two wires; then reversing the procedure with the new thermostat.
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Old 10-10-2012, 09:16 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mambojambo
Does anyone know how to replace a thermostat on at Suburban SW10DE water heater? The thermostat in mine definitely has a blown fuse link. Do I need to drain the tank or is it just something that sits up against the tank? I just don't want a surprise when I go to take it off and I don't want to waste time draining it if I don't have to. Thanks in advance.
John
Which side? left is ac right is DC. If was AC side could be heater is shorted out. Tank element, if DC opened link could need some trouble shooting. If you don't check, you'll blow another link.
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Old 10-15-2012, 09:07 AM   #4
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I also this past weekend experienced having the element go out and evidently it in turn got the thermostat switch also. I have checked continuity on the element and get a 0 reading. Have power going into the thermostat switch but no power out. The wire connect is burnt looking on one end. I had read somewhere in a discussion that someone has had this continous problem with the Suburban heater. My unit is only 18 Months old thus hopefully is still under warranty. This is the first time I have had an issue with a hot water heater element and thermostat going out at the same time.
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Old 10-15-2012, 10:09 AM   #5
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I also this past weekend experienced having the element go out and evidently it in turn got the thermostat switch also. I have checked continuity on the element and get a 0 reading. Have power going into the thermostat switch but no power out. The wire connect is burnt looking on one end. I had read somewhere in a discussion that someone has had this continous problem with the Suburban heater. My unit is only 18 Months old thus hopefully is still under warranty. This is the first time I have had an issue with a hot water heater element and thermostat going out at the same time.
If element started drawing excess current for a time (less than 20amp trip setting) it could cook the thermostat easily. Suburban is questioning the validity of the thermostat being covered full term. I returned mine over a week ago and have not heard anything yet.
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Old 10-15-2012, 11:27 AM   #6
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Originally Posted by mambojambo View Post
Does anyone know how to replace a thermostat on at Suburban SW10DE water heater? The thermostat in mine definitely has a blown fuse link. Do I need to drain the tank or is it just something that sits up against the tank? I just don't want a surprise when I go to take it off and I don't want to waste time draining it if I don't have to. Thanks in advance.
John
John have you tried to puch the reset buttons yet?
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Old 10-15-2012, 11:50 AM   #7
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Originally Posted by herk7769 View Post
The threaded bolt holds the thermostat directly against the side of the tank.
(No penetration) If the bolt is loose it could cause overly hot water; then when it touches the tank it could open.

Replacement is simply removing the nut and the two wires; then reversing the procedure with the new thermostat.
The wire on my switch didn't burn into like your picture shows it simply has a burn look on the bottom side. After doing the reset button still no power coming through the top side? The element shows 0 reading on continuity. I called the Suburban warranty office and they said it should be covered under warranty as long as I had not dry fired it (which I hadn't since I leave water in it all the time). Hopefully they will cover since it is under the 2 year mark???
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Old 10-15-2012, 08:03 PM   #8
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John have you tried to puch the reset buttons yet?
Iggy,

The links and thermo devices are under that black cover. AC is on left DC is on right. Two wire connections each and one 5/16" nut holds the assembly (each) against the tank. Just make sure all power supplies are off. In case the thermal link is intact, still can be the thermo device on bottom of each. They should read across if cool. See Herks pic above.
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Old 10-15-2012, 08:24 PM   #9
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Iggy,

The links and thermo devices are under that black cover. AC is on left DC is on right. Two wire connections each and one 5/16" nut holds the assembly (each) against the tank. Just make sure all power supplies are off. In case the thermal link is intact, still can be the thermo device on bottom of each. They should read across if cool. See Herks pic above.
Sorry Iggy, mistaken ID!
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Old 10-17-2012, 05:04 AM   #10
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I also have just been bitten by the "no hot water" in the morning bug.... This discussion will help me diagnose and correct the problem very quickly. Thanks to all who keep up with the answers for us "newbies".
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Old 10-17-2012, 08:15 AM   #11
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Since mine is still under warranty I took it to the shop on Monday for the fix whereas normally I would have done a self-fix. I will post later their analysis and repair requirements hopefully later this week. At least I am glad these bugs are biting while it is still under the warranty period.
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Old 11-17-2012, 12:56 PM   #12
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If element started drawing excess current for a time (less than 20amp trip setting) it could cook the thermostat easily. Suburban is questioning the validity of the thermostat being covered full term. I returned mine over a week ago and have not heard anything yet.
Just yesterday I received full reinbursement for my cost of part and shipping for the 120V thermostat. I bought the part from a third party internet dealer although it was a Suburban marked parts bag. I told them in my letter I installed and tested myself, no labor charges. When I first reported it they hesitated on 3rd party and shipping but paid it all.
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Old 11-19-2012, 06:38 AM   #13
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I just had to do mine. Very easy to change out.
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Old 11-24-2012, 10:06 AM   #14
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Thanks to all that posted a reply to my post back in mid October. I ended up draining the tank and changing out the anode rod, heating element which I was able to diagnose bad with a multimeter (resistance check), and the thermostat. No problems! So nice to be using the campground electricity rather than my propane! Now I can help others know how to do this!
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