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Old 10-02-2020, 01:21 PM   #1
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New to Winterizing - What have I missed?

Got a new Flagstaff E-Pro E19FD this summer. Have never winterized before. Want to make sure I'm doing all the right things.
We never filled the freshwater tank - always used the stare park's water supply via the "city water" input. The freshwater tank drain has been open since we bought the trailer. So I'm assuming I'm good there.

Here's what I've done:
1. pulled the anode rod from the water heater, drained it, replaced the anode rod, and turned the water heater bypass valves
2. opened the blackwater and graywater drains
3. opened the low-point drains.
4. opened all the faucets (kitchen sink, bathroom sink, tub, external shower
5. hooked up my car's air pump to the city water input, set it to 40psi, and turned it on
6. went around and closed all the faucets one at a time
7. once I got nothing but air coming out of the low point drains, I closed them off
8. kept flushing the toilet, waiting, flushing again, repeated until nothing but air came into the toilet
9. closed the blackwater and graywater drains

Questions:
1. In the picture of the water heater / pump area, the two falves circled and connected with the red lines to the right - they're the water heater bypass valves, right?
2. The other valve at the bottom of the picture - is that for using fresh water vs city water? If so, it must be set for city water, right?
3. In the picture from the exterior rear of the camper, #1 is the city water connection, #2 is the blackwater tank flush, and #3 says it's the antifreeze input. Why is there a separate input for antifreeze?
4. I'm thinking all I gotta do now is:
q. open the faucets and pump antifreeze into that input until I see pink stuff coming out of the faucets, then close them off and
b. keep flushing the toilet until I see pink stuff flowing into it, then
c. pour some pink stuff into each of the drains to fill the P-traps

What have I done wrong?
And what else do I need to do?

Thanks!
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Old 10-02-2020, 03:02 PM   #2
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You seem to have it covered.
The few things I read was that you turned the water back on after you changed the anode.
The water heater should be drained of all water before winterizing and make sure you have the waater heate rbypass valves proper for bypassing the water heater before adding antifreeze.

The antifree fill line is hooked up to your water pump.
That is the extra hose you put a question make on.
The water pump when on will suck the anti freeze to all locations except it will bypass the water heater.

You got this!
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Old 10-02-2020, 03:13 PM   #3
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Clarification

Many thanks!

Didn't turn the water back on - it's disconnected. What I did was I didn't set the valves to bypass the water heater until after draining the heater and replacing the anode rod.

So, one more question. Have not used the water pump yet ('cause we've only used "city" water). So I attach a hose to the antifreeze input and stick the other end into the jug of pink stuff, then turn on the water pump, and that will draw the ink stuff into the lines? Cool! I had bought a hand pump for the pink stuff jug!
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accompanied by DB (my Darlin' Bride) aka Carol
and Eddie - our 11-yr-old lab mix
and Biff - our 8-yr-old pitweiler (pitbull/rotweiler mix)
2021 Flagstaff E-Pro E19FB - our 4th camper
It's not just a life - it's an adventure!
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Old 10-02-2020, 05:45 PM   #4
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In theroy what I see yes.
You can do a test by getting some waater in a pail and try it as a test.
I have a 3 way valve in mine that you must turn to suck the pink stuff.
Yours what I see may have one but I donn't see it.
Sorry I can't help any more without more info.
Maybe some one here with the exact rig may give you the final answer.
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Old 10-02-2020, 08:19 PM   #5
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How did the draining of the gray and black tank go on your driveway? May want to close those or drain what goes down the drain into a bucket.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Attila the Pun View Post
Got a new Flagstaff E-Pro E19FD this summer. Have never winterized before. Want to make sure I'm doing all the right things.
We never filled the freshwater tank - always used the stare park's water supply via the "city water" input. The freshwater tank drain has been open since we bought the trailer. So I'm assuming I'm good there.

Here's what I've done:
1. pulled the anode rod from the water heater, drained it, replaced the anode rod, and turned the water heater bypass valves
2. opened the blackwater and graywater drains
3. opened the low-point drains.
4. opened all the faucets (kitchen sink, bathroom sink, tub, external shower
5. hooked up my car's air pump to the city water input, set it to 40psi, and turned it on
6. went around and closed all the faucets one at a time
7. once I got nothing but air coming out of the low point drains, I closed them off
8. kept flushing the toilet, waiting, flushing again, repeated until nothing but air came into the toilet
9. closed the blackwater and graywater drains

Questions:
1. In the picture of the water heater / pump area, the two falves circled and connected with the red lines to the right - they're the water heater bypass valves, right?
2. The other valve at the bottom of the picture - is that for using fresh water vs city water? If so, it must be set for city water, right?
3. In the picture from the exterior rear of the camper, #1 is the city water connection, #2 is the blackwater tank flush, and #3 says it's the antifreeze input. Why is there a separate input for antifreeze?
4. I'm thinking all I gotta do now is:
q. open the faucets and pump antifreeze into that input until I see pink stuff coming out of the faucets, then close them off and
b. keep flushing the toilet until I see pink stuff flowing into it, then
c. pour some pink stuff into each of the drains to fill the P-traps

What have I done wrong?
And what else do I need to do?

Thanks!
1. Yes

2. No, it switches the pump between the antifreeze port and the FW tank.

3. See 2. You will need to move the valve to use the antifreeze port. The pump does not pull in from the fresh valve only the antifreeze port. Also see my comment below about removing the water from the city port.

4 a. Turn that lower port to the antifreeze outlet and hook a hose up to the antifreeze port. You will want the antifreeze level or higher than the port for best results.

Dont forget to remove your water filter if you have one built in before you pump antifreeze.

Open the fresh water port outside, remove the screen and press the valve after you have antifreeze in the system....stand back as it will squirt out. This removes fresh water from the connection. Many times it does not have enough to freeze but mine did once.

Drain the fresh tank just in case the pump allowed water into the tank...it happens a lot.

I also remove the filter cap next to the pump. If you only used city water this may not be required but if the back flow valve in the pump leaked it could crack. If its pink you are fine but because it is different plastics and they expand and contract at different rates I remove it to be safe.

Good job, see you next year!
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Old 10-02-2020, 10:20 PM   #6
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Don't forget to drain the outside shower if you have one. We have never used the outside shower so I forgot about it the first time I winterized ours. Luckily I store our motorhome inside an insulated building and ot never got below freezing inside the building.
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Old 10-03-2020, 08:08 AM   #7
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Great answers - thanx!

You guys are great! Thanks for the help. Looks like I can make some slight modifications to my list and use it as a checklist next year.
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Attila the Pun (aka Bruce Reaves)
accompanied by DB (my Darlin' Bride) aka Carol
and Eddie - our 11-yr-old lab mix
and Biff - our 8-yr-old pitweiler (pitbull/rotweiler mix)
2021 Flagstaff E-Pro E19FB - our 4th camper
It's not just a life - it's an adventure!
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Old 10-03-2020, 08:25 AM   #8
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RE draining tanks in driveway

Quote:
Originally Posted by dbledan View Post
How did the draining of the gray and black tank go on your driveway? May want to close those or drain what goes down the drain into a bucket.
We had thoroughly drained and flushed the blank tank (and drained the gray) at the campground's dumpstation at the end of our last trip. This additional draining was from where I had hooked up to house water once we returned home. Very little came out.

But yeah, definitely wouldn't want to empty a truly used blackwater tank into the driveway!
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Attila the Pun (aka Bruce Reaves)
accompanied by DB (my Darlin' Bride) aka Carol
and Eddie - our 11-yr-old lab mix
and Biff - our 8-yr-old pitweiler (pitbull/rotweiler mix)
2021 Flagstaff E-Pro E19FB - our 4th camper
It's not just a life - it's an adventure!
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Old 10-03-2020, 08:42 AM   #9
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A couple more items....

Be sure you close your low point drains before pumping in the anti-freeze.

If you have a black tank flush system attach your air to it and blow the water out of the valve and nozzles.
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Old 10-03-2020, 01:12 PM   #10
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Winterizing

Remember to remove the AAA batteries from the smoke detector. I also take my battery inside the house and have it trickle charge with a Battery Tender.
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Old 10-03-2020, 02:15 PM   #11
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Just a couple more comments.

1) Bypass the water heater FIRST before doing anything else. Then remove the anode rod. Then do things like opening the low point drains, etc. Reason: the water heater gets full of crud. It's safe--calcium mineralization, etc.--but if it gets in the plumbing it will clog shower heads, toilet valves, and sink aerators.

2) When you blow out the system (I never do), don't open all the valves. Air will mostly go out the nearest one only. Instead, close oll the valves and then open and close them one at a time. Be SURE to give the toilet an extra long time. The little plastic valve is fragile and will crack at the slightest provocation. Water will weep down the line, through the hole in the floor and you will never know you have a leak until the insulation or subfloor falls out!

3) Don't forget the drain traps. If you are just blowing out the water lines, be sure to pour some RV anti-freeze down the kitchen and lavatory sinks.

4) There is really no reason to blow out the system or open the low point drains if you are putting anti-freeze in. Just get two one-gallon jugs of RV potable antifreeze (NOT automotive antifreeze). Turn off city water and disconnect the hose. Turn all faucets off. Turn the valve on the water pump so it draws from the tubing. Insert the tubing in one of the jugs. Turn on the pump. Go to each faucet in succession (hot and cold, even though the heater is bypassed) and turn it on until the water runs pink, then cold. Run enough to fill the traps. A someone else noted, don't forget to go to the city water connection, remove the filter screen, stand aside, and press the valve in until it runs pink. With a big RV, you may need to use the second jug to cover everything.

5) Empty black and gray water tanks. If there is a chance they could fill (winter camping, dehumidifier), put a bucket or tote under the outlet and open the valves. That black piping is very delicate and the first gallon or two of water you dump down the drain goes right there.
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Old 10-03-2020, 04:25 PM   #12
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Open a hot water faucet before bypassing the hot water heater. That will relieve any pressure in the tank. Then bypass the tank. Also do not forget the clothes washer connections if you have them. I pull my batteries and charge them once a month.
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Old 10-03-2020, 06:51 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Attila the Pun View Post
Many thanks!

Didn't turn the water back on - it's disconnected. What I did was I didn't set the valves to bypass the water heater until after draining the heater and replacing the anode rod.

So, one more question. Have not used the water pump yet ('cause we've only used "city" water). So I attach a hose to the antifreeze input and stick the other end into the jug of pink stuff, then turn on the water pump, and that will draw the ink stuff into the lines? Cool! I had bought a hand pump for the pink stuff jug!
Since you already bought the hand pump, use it to force some "pink stuff" into the black water tank clean-out connection. The extra antifreeze in the blackwater tank won't hurt it and could help. And there is an anti-siphon valve in that system that may benefit from some antifreeze, as well. Good luck!
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Old 10-03-2020, 07:09 PM   #14
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One of the major fails on a bad winterization process is that the flush valve on the toilet still has a tiny bit of water in it, freezes, and the valve cracks. You find out at the beginning of the next season.

If you are not going to pump antifreeze into the lines, I'd be darn certain I tried getting all possible water out of the toilet's water system with air pressure.

TRANSLATED: I'd never just use air myself. Antifreeze is a whole lot cheaper than a flush valve.

Ray
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Old 10-03-2020, 11:03 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Attila the Pun View Post
We had thoroughly drained and flushed the blank tank (and drained the gray) at the campground's dumpstation at the end of our last trip. This additional draining was from where I had hooked up to house water once we returned home. Very little came out.

But yeah, definitely wouldn't want to empty a truly used blackwater tank into the driveway!
I assumed so but wanted to make sure if you were doing a checklist that you took that into account...no on the driveway that way.
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