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Old 11-28-2017, 09:06 PM   #21
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No, a 2016 Sanibel 3551. Great on storage, awful on function. First 3 months, propane heater blew a fuse every 2 days. Fireplace worked one month, replacement worked 2 weeks. When it heats up it shuts off. When water is turned on, some of it winds up in the freshwater tank for some yet to be explained reason, etc. So far it's been an expensive waste of money and time. Sorry.
I think if you search on this site you will see many posts about water bypassing the water pump seals thus filling your freshwater tank.

The fireplace is supposed to shut off if it heats the area to the desired temp that can be set by the thermostat. Are you saying the heat shuts off or the whole fireplace (fake flame and heat).
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Old 11-28-2017, 09:15 PM   #22
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The whole fireplace shuts down. It may run 20 seconds or 16 minutes ( our minimum and maximum times). The area is still chilly. We think it cuts off to keep a fire from starting. We have had wiring problems with the thermostat not being wired properly and the tank sensors not being wired in at all. We give FR Prime Time an F on this unit.
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Old 11-28-2017, 09:24 PM   #23
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Only cold water, no air. We're getting it checked out Thursday. Another hotel bill, ugh! Thanks so much to everyone for helping us try to sort this out.

Trying to figure this out.....is the lack of hot water the only reason you're staying in a hotel?? I didn't see any post about the propane side of the water heater not working. Did you give that a try?
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Old 11-28-2017, 09:28 PM   #24
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If I understand correctly...you are saying there is no access to the rear of the WH from the inside? The videos I saw it looks like the WH is near the front door and in/behind the cabinets behind the bath room. Is that correct? Looks like access would be available through there.

http://www.primetimerv.com/download/...aintenance.pdf
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Old 11-28-2017, 09:30 PM   #25
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Going in the shop for the 6th time this year to have the 3rd fireplace installed, fix water heater b4 warranty is out, fix as water problem with fresh tank filling when it shouldn't, why tank sensors still don't register correctly, whose paying for the ruffled up vinyl in front of the fridge, why one stove burner still won't light after a year, etc. If this wasn't our 24/7/365 home it might be different.
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Old 11-28-2017, 09:32 PM   #26
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No indoor access to the WH in this model.
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Old 11-28-2017, 09:56 PM   #27
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Going in the shop for the 6th time this year to have the 3rd fireplace installed, fix water heater b4 warranty is out, fix as water problem with fresh tank filling when it shouldn't, why tank sensors still don't register correctly, whose paying for the ruffled up vinyl in front of the fridge, why one stove burner still won't light after a year, etc. If this wasn't our 24/7/365 home it might be different.
If the factory can’t fix the stove check one thing. I had this happen on our unit. Lift the cover off the stove. It is easy as it just sits in 4 rubber grommets in each corner and will lift straight up. Once you take it off check to make sure the spark ignition wire is connected to the burner igniter. Mine fell off one time while traveling. If it is connected at the burner check that the wire is completely pushed into to the socket back at the igniter.

Sure hope you get your issues resolved. At least you are still in warranty..
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Old 11-28-2017, 10:13 PM   #28
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Your dealer seems to be a little confused saying you can’t get to the water heater without taking off the whole wall?

I googled your unit. Is this it?

The water heater door is circled. Open this and ensure the ac switch is on unless yours is routed inside. You will also see two round rubber covers. Press them and make sure the switch behind them is reset.

You will also see the element. Looks like a big bolt with wires connected to center.. good luck.
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Old 11-28-2017, 10:32 PM   #29
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Breaker is ok. Water is heating up on propane. Ours is an Atwood 10 gallon model. Don't see a reset button. Looks like a 2 amp fuse on the circuit board. Could that have blown and not the breaker?
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Our heating element can only be accessed by removing the outside wall of the RV according to the service manager at the dealership. I can't begin to express our frustration at having every major system on this New RV fail in a years time. Thanks for the helpful info.
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Your dealer seems to be a little confused saying you can’t get to the water heater without taking off the whole wall?

I googled your unit. Is this it?

The water heater door is circled. Open this and ensure the ac switch is on unless yours is routed inside. You will also see two round rubber covers. Press them and make sure the switch behind them is reset.

You will also see the element. Looks like a big bolt with wires connected to center.. good luck.
Dalford, your suggestion pertains to a Suburban brand water heater, whereas DHSDawg has an Atwood. The Atwood's electric heating element is accessed from the rear of the tank....and thus may be a problem, if you can't gain easy access to it.

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Old 11-28-2017, 10:42 PM   #30
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To the OP, looking at the pic Dalford provided of where your water heater is located, you should be able to go inside your RV and see if there is some way to access the back of the water heater, which most do have an access, since the winterization/bypass valves are most times behind the water heater.

You may have to remove a false cabinet door, bed bottom, cabinet drawer, panel in a pass-thru, etc, to gain access. Each RV is different.

If your bypass/winterization valves are located behind the water heater, and there is an access to them...it may not be as difficult as thought of to replace the electric element.

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Old 11-28-2017, 10:53 PM   #31
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Originally Posted by Iwannacamp View Post
If I understand correctly...you are saying there is no access to the rear of the WH from the inside? The videos I saw it looks like the WH is near the front door and in/behind the cabinets behind the bath room. Is that correct? Looks like access would be available through there.

http://www.primetimerv.com/download/...aintenance.pdf

The water heater should be located behind the basement wall panel adjacent to the docking station under the bathroom floor & is completely accessible from there. The heating element is serviced from the outside of the 5er behind the water heater access door. No need to "remove the entire outside wall".


Quote:
Originally Posted by DHSDawg View Post
Going in the shop for the 6th time this year to have the 3rd fireplace installed, fix water heater b4 warranty is out, fix as water problem with fresh tank filling when it shouldn't, why tank sensors still don't register correctly, whose paying for the ruffled up vinyl in front of the fridge, why one stove burner still won't light after a year, etc. If this wasn't our 24/7/365 home it might be different.

Strange that you're going on to your 3rd fireplace. It could be a power issue. If the fireplace is trying to draw it's required amps from a 110v line that is compromised, it can cause the fireplace to trip its internal thermal breaker & shut down. Since your fireplace is in a slide, the 110v wire(s) connections that feed the slide's 110v outlets may have become loosened from the movement of the slide.

Water heater issue.....well, we've discussed that at length here.

The issue with the water filling the FW tank could be in the switching valve in the docking station. Sometimes just turning the valve back & forth to dislodge a piece of debris may work (that happened to me once and I've also had to replace the center diverter because debris cut the O-ring.

The tank sensors (even if hooked up properly) may never be accurate due to "crud" buildup on them inside the tank which will light them up giving false readings.

The ruffled up vinyl floor at the fridge is caused by too much weight on the slide roller (due to the weight of the fridge) when the slide comes in. The slide needs adjustment....and may always need frequent attention. The vinyl floor should be able to be smoothed back down.

The stove burner is a simple fix. The igniter wire is either disconnected at either end (burner or ignition switch/knob) or it has become "chaffed" and is now grounding out on the metal pan under the burners. Simply moving it around and lifting it off the metal pan may fix it. BTW, don't be holding the igniter wire while turning the igniter knob unless you want to jump start your pacemaker. Ask me how I know.



Unfortunately, FR/PT is not the only manufacturer to experience these issues. They are all at the mercy of the manufacturers that supply the individual components, ie; stoves, water heaters, slide mechanisms, tank sensors. Although, tank sensors are a matter of brand, model & design choice that the manufacturers use.

Good luck and keep us informed.
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Old 11-28-2017, 10:55 PM   #32
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Thx wmtire, I missed that info.. guess I’m glad I have a suburban..lol..

How about the stove? Maybe not like mine either....
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Old 11-28-2017, 11:03 PM   #33
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Dalford, your suggestion pertains to a Suburban brand water heater, whereas DHSDawg has an Atwood. The Atwood's electric heating element is accessed from the rear of the tank....and thus may be a problem, if you can't gain easy access to it.


Ahh, my oversight also. In my previous post, I was going by my Sanibel which has a Suburban. The heater is completely accessible by removing the basement wall partition panel just behind the docking station. I sits on the floor just under the bathroom shower.
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