no hot water in 2022 Wolf Pup 14cc Dometic

[PHX WOLF PUP 14CC]

I recently bought a private sale 1 year old wolf pup 14cc. I can't get the hot water heater to work. I replaced thermocouple, checked all interior breakers, checked water relief valve (there is water in tank) turned on the interior gas hot water switch, checked fuses I havent' been able to plug it into shore power yet.

Its the Dometic water heater. Some people saying there is a reset switch on the heater outside but I don't see it Stove and heater are getting gas

any ideas?

[Iwritecode]

Are the bypass valves set correctly?

[MNtraveler]

For gas hot water to work you need propane at sufficient level, the propane valve on, and adequate 12V power to run the control board, with your battery on/off switch on. Finally, the 12V fuse for that controller power line must be good.

Without shore power, you could also test electric mode with a generator if you have one. Some water heaters have an on/off switch in the compartment AND an on/off switch inside that must be on. Also if the water heater has a plug-in line (not direct hard wired), that must be plugged in. The 120V circuit breaker must be fully on for that line. Lastly, the 12V power for the control board must still be all good as per the previous paragraph.

[Boomerweps]

Purge your gas lines, I.e., run the stovetop.
Make sure the winterization valves are in the correct orientation. The valve handles/flags pointed towards the water heater for use, the other direction bypasses the water heater.
Open the exterior water heater panel. Inside are two black rubber cover plugs, those are the reset buttons mentioned. Also, inside you can lift the pressure relief valve to test if the water heater has water and is under pressure (easier than checking the winterizing valves). Under the piping on the left side is a hidden black rocker switch that turns on the electric heater element. DO NOT turn this on unless you are SURE the water heater is full of water. Make checking this switch a major step in setup and tear down.
There is a huge nut without wires (with wires is the heater element), that is the anode rod that should be replaced as a minimum, every two years. It corrodes so the aluminum heater doesn’t. With careful Amazon shopping you can get them 2/$16 last I bought. You can get a pressed steel socket for that there, too.

[Larry-NC]

Originally Posted by Boomerweps

Purge your gas lines, I.e., run the stovetop.
Make sure the winterization valves are in the correct orientation. The valve handles/flags pointed towards the water heater for use, the other direction bypasses the water heater.
Open the exterior water heater panel. Inside are two black rubber cover plugs, those are the reset buttons mentioned. Also, inside you can lift the pressure relief valve to test if the water heater has water and is under pressure (easier than checking the winterizing valves). Under the piping on the left side is a hidden black rocker switch that turns on the electric heater element. DO NOT turn this on unless you are SURE the water heater is full of water. Make checking this switch a major step in setup and tear down.
There is a huge nut without wires (with wires is the heater element), that is the anode rod that should be replaced as a minimum, every two years. It corrodes so the aluminum heater doesn’t. With careful Amazon shopping you can get them 2/$16 last I bought. You can get a pressed steel socket for that there, too.

Boomer, his is the Dometic (formerly Atwood) water heater, not the more-common Suburban. It has no anode rod. It does not have a switch at the lower left side. It does not have two reset buttons under rubber covers. See Post #1.

[jimmoore13]

I don't think you said whether or not the hot water heater "runs"...as in fires up and keeps "burning." My guess is not.

A common problem with all RV gas appliances is spiders in the burner tube. All you need to do is remove the burner tube and blow it out with compressed air. While you're at it, check the orifice...remove it and blow it out with compressed air.

If you have automatic ignition (similar to the igniter on a gas grill), when everything is assembled, you stand outside next to the hot water heater and have someone else turn no the switch inside the rig. You should hear a steady "tic, tic, tic" as the igniter makes a spark until it senses a flame. No tic, tic, tic? There's the problem.

Check this. Very simple. If you want more, Google: spiders in the rv hot water heater burner tube
That will return lots of videos and other instructional material.

As others mentioned, there are two basic brands: Suburban and Atwood/Dometic. One has a sacrificial anode attached to the drain plug, and the other does not. They are each slightly different, but when it comes to spiders in the burner tube, the solution is the same. You need only a screwdriver and a small adjustable wrench to service the burner tube and the orifice. Don't overtighten the orifice when you clean and replace it. Brass is soft, and you can ruin it by being ham-fisted.

P.S. If you have a 2 way fridge (120 volt and propane), the same process is helpful with the RV fridge burner. And since the RV fridge uses a MUCH smaller "fire," those pesky spiderwebs can bugger up the fridge even easier.