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05-17-2022, 05:23 PM
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#21
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Junior Member
Join Date: Feb 2022
Posts: 18
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Were you plugged in to shore power or running off the generator? If you were running off the generator was anything else running like your A/C between when it was working and when it was not? If so, potentially your generator isn't powerful enough to run both A/C and water heater at the same time. Also, if you're running shore power and have multiple things going, make sure your cord is big enough to handle everything. If I use one of my household extension cords for shore power, its barely enough to run my A/C.
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05-17-2022, 07:16 PM
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#22
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Junior Member
Join Date: May 2022
Location: Michigan
Posts: 10
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I stay at the seasonal site and use the electrical tower that is on the site with the electrical cord that came with the camper. It's a 50 amp site...I hope that info helps.
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05-17-2022, 07:30 PM
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#23
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Virginia
Posts: 9,935
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By the way it is fine to open the pop off valve to check to see if water is in the tank. On ours that is about the only way to get water into the tank. There will be an adequate air space above the pop off valve.
__________________
2005 Dodge 3500 Cummins
2017 Wildwood Lodge 4092 BFL
1966 Mustang GT
1986 Mustang SVO
Lillie Spoiled Rotten Boxer Mix
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05-17-2022, 07:42 PM
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#24
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2020
Posts: 4,866
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You have an electrical problem with the water heater. It's either the thermostat, heating element, or a problem with the wiring supplying the water heater. Your valves are set correctly in the photo you provided.
To drain the water heater you will want to set both bypass valves to opposite where they are now (so the handles are parallel to each other, horizontal). Then open the valve between the blue pex and the white nylon-braid hose in the bottom left corner of the photo, and lift the lever on the pressure relief valve.
Once you are ready to fill and operate again, make sure the drain valve is closed, reposition the bypass valves so the handles are vertical, and you can, if you desire lift the lever on the pressure relief valve - or just open a hot water faucet.
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05-17-2022, 07:53 PM
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#25
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Junior Member
Join Date: May 2022
Location: Michigan
Posts: 10
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Thank you!! We will replace the heating element and thermostat this weekend. Hopefully that fixes the issue! Thanks again!!
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05-23-2022, 07:15 PM
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#26
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Member
Join Date: Feb 2017
Posts: 89
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NavyLCDR
You have an electrical problem with the water heater. It's either the thermostat, heating element, or a problem with the wiring supplying the water heater. Your valves are set correctly in the photo you provided.
To drain the water heater you will want to set both bypass valves to opposite where they are now (so the handles are parallel to each other, horizontal). Then open the valve between the blue pex and the white nylon-braid hose in the bottom left corner of the photo, and lift the lever on the pressure relief valve.
Once you are ready to fill and operate again, make sure the drain valve is closed, reposition the bypass valves so the handles are vertical, and you can, if you desire lift the lever on the pressure relief valve - or just open a hot water faucet.
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I agree...with every thing said here except the part about using the pressure relief valve to purge air etc...it will work, but I have on more then 1 occasion had them get a piece of crap in the valve and had them not close all the way (leak,drip) and end up having to replace them, better off just opening a hot water tap somewhere in the vehicle.
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05-23-2022, 07:34 PM
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#27
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Member
Join Date: Oct 2019
Posts: 38
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We had the same problem. One of our valves was not parallel to the line. Once we repositioned the valve right we got our hot water back. Not sure if that’s your problem.
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05-24-2022, 08:37 AM
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#28
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Member
Join Date: May 2014
Location: Ohio
Posts: 95
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NavyLCDR
I hate to burst your bubble, but Iwritecode and Mandog are likely to be mistaken. The cold water inlet to the water heater is likely to be the blue pex line entering from the left side of the picture. It flows through the diverter valve in the direction of the handle, which is downward. The then flows through the tee into the water heater. The valve in the very lower left corner of the water heater is probably a water heater drain line because that appears to be a residential water heater instead of an RV water heater.
If the valve you have circled was changed in position so that it was inline with the blue pex and the "loop", then it would be in the bypass position and you would not have water flowing into the water heater. If you turn the valve in the very lower left corner of the photo to inline with the hoses, you are going to get water spraying out of the drain line.
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I have the exact same water heater. Navy is correct on the direction of the valves. I’m guessing that someone turned it in without water in it and burned up the element. It is an easy repair. I doubt it is the thermostat.
On a seperate note, does any one know if these have an anode rod?
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