Note to self when draining hot water tank...

[mikeyk101]

So I'm doing some regular maintenance in preparation for a couple trips coming up. Last trip was a couple weeks ago and at that time, I had filled hot water tank before leaving. I got busy after getting back home and never got a chance to drain it. So today, I decide it would be a good time to sanitize the fresh water system as well as drain the hot water tank. So before starting, I turn the bypass valves for hot water tank. Then I put a bleach solution in fresh water tank and fill it up. Then I ran bleach through all of the fixtures until I could smell some bleach odor.

Next was the hot water tank. I'm guessing a gorilla was used to install the plug because I couldn't get it to budge at all. I finally dug out my 1/2" ratchet, and extension and a 1-1/16 socket. After cranking on it, it started to move. I kept going and all of a sudden I get blasted by a wall of water and the drain plug goes shooting past me! Doh! I realized I didn't let the pressure out of the tank first.

So next time, duly noted is to push up on release valve first before pulling drain plug. I have seen before cautions to make sure to let tank cool off first before draining. Now I understand. Thankfully, the hot water heater hadn't been turned on since last trip so the water was cold. It could have resulted in some pretty nasty burns...

[cboss]

Thanks for the tip. I sometimes forget to do this and ask myself why I torqued it so tight last time I had it out?

[Iwritecode]

No reason to bypass the hot water tank when sanitizing. Then it's simple enough to just open a hot water tap to relieve the pressure instead.

[mikeyk101]

Originally Posted by Iwritecode

No reason to bypass the hot water tank when sanitizing. Then it's simple enough to just open a hot water tap to relieve the pressure instead.

This is true but I just decided for this time that it only needed draining. The water in there had been sitting for the last couple weeks and I was getting concerned. And it was a matter of just turning 2 valves to bypass it.

[NJKris]

I don't bypass when sanitizing, I like water heater sanitized as well. I think a lot of us have made the rookie mistake of trying to drain the tank while it is still pressurized. You find out a couple things:
A. Things are tight as hell (including water filter housing!) when system is pressurized.
B. Hopefully you are not standing in front of anode when it launches. Mine went about 4 feet and landed on lawn, thankfully not breaking on pavement.
C. You only tighten that thing enough that it doesn't leak. I bring along a short section of pipe to give me leverage on the water heater wrench I use (to loosen, never to tighten).


When I'm outside about to drain it, I use the pressure relief valve to release the pressure, plus you want that open when you drain, or vacuum on system will not allow the water to rush out and pull sediment and crap out as it does so.

[Thomas ho]

scrape anode rod clean ,i do mine at end of each trip, keep down scale in bottom of tank. my low point drains are under my water heater , i just open them up to releive pressure.

[NJKris]

Most of the sediment is minerals in the water, especially calcium. I've never heard of any need to 'scrape the anode'. You don't want to lose anode material unnecessarily, and you WANT the anode to oxidize, that's what's keeping your tank from corroding.

[Oaklevel]

Originally Posted by mikeyk101

This is true but I just decided for this time that it only needed draining. The water in there had been sitting for the last couple weeks and I was getting concerned. And it was a matter of just turning 2 valves to bypass it.

Most of us only drain the water heater only in the fall when winterizing. Do you drain your water heater at home if it sits 2 weeks?

[D W]

Originally Posted by NJKris

Most of the sediment is minerals in the water, especially calcium. I've never heard of any need to 'scrape the anode'. You don't want to lose anode material unnecessarily, and you WANT the anode to oxidize, that's what's keeping your tank from corroding.

X2. Never heard of the process of "scraping the anode rod".

We only sanitize once a year, when we take it out of storage. Throughout the camping season we are always adding CW to the FW tank, so there is always treated water in the tank. Unless you've added some "questionable" water somewhere along the way, I'd consider it a waste of time.

[NJKris]

I only sanitize once at beginning of season also. I know this was discussed to death on other threads, but the main benefit I see from draining the tank when not in use is it may last longer, and certainly eat up anode rod less frequently. I have no idea if these tanks are built to same standard as my home water heater. I CAN say that by draining tank, my anode is still at least 75% intact going into 3rd year of use.

[Thomas ho]

my well water has no added chemicals, such as flouride ,etc. C.o.e. campgrounds and mountain campgrounds are mostly on well water. tends to get a odor after A couple of weeks sitting around.

[mikeyk101]

I also have well water here at the house so that was a concern of mine. I do have a decent filtration and softening system so I am fine with drinking the water at the house. But the other thing I forgot to mention was that after taking delivery earlier this year, I didn't follow the directions to sanitize and flush the system. My first trip was at campgrounds so I hooked up to their water but I had also half filled my fresh water tank so I could use the toilet on the road and also sinks for washing my hands if needed. I had bottled water so I wasn't concerned with needing drinking water. So sanitizing and draining the HW heater just made sense. But now I know the system is sanitized and ready to go for the next couple trips.

[Iwritecode]

In all the years I've camped I can count on one hand the number of times I've used the pressure release valve on my water heater.

[NJKris]

It's not a bad thing to exercise it. And saves you the trip into the camper when draining or filling to open a faucet.

[camaraderie]

Welcome to the Flying Anode Survivors Club!
Your membership MAY be annually renewed!!

[bstar1952]

Chuckling because I did the exact same thing yesterday. Plug and water shot out at least 15 feet. I believe if I has been standing directly in front of it, I could have been hurt. As it was, I got soaked and couldn't believe how much calcium was in the water - my gray tee shirt was covered. Hopefully I won't forget to release the relief valve in the future. Felt like quite the idiot for sure.

[HONDAMAN174]

Originally Posted by bstar1952

Chuckling because I did the exact same thing yesterday. Plug and water shot out at least 15 feet. I believe if I has been standing directly in front of it, I could have been hurt. As it was, I got soaked and couldn't believe how much calcium was in the water - my gray tee shirt was covered. Hopefully I won't forget to release the relief valve in the future. Felt like quite the idiot for sure.

Yep! Done that more than once. 🤦🏼

But took less time to flush sediment out cause was all over me!

[Larry-NC]

Originally Posted by Iwritecode

No reason to bypass the hot water tank when sanitizing. Then it's simple enough to just open a hot water tap to relieve the pressure instead.

Okay to use bleach in a porcelain-lined tank. Not okay to use bleach in an aluminum tank. Aren't the Atwood tanks aluminum?

[PDuB-IA2MI]

Originally Posted by Larry-NC

Okay to use bleach in a porcelain-lined tank. Not okay to use bleach in an aluminum tank. Aren't the Atwood tanks aluminum?

Would like to discuss this, my dealer told me to not sanitize the tank as it corrodes the interior. The high temp of the hot water does the sanitizing, doesn't it?

[Larry-NC]

Originally Posted by PDuB-IA2MI

Would like to discuss this, my dealer told me to not sanitize the tank as it corrodes the interior. The high temp of the hot water does the sanitizing, doesn't it?

I've ruined a couple of vacuum bottles with a bleach rinse. Can't remember if they were stainless steel or aluminum.