Journey with Confidence RV GPS App RV Trip Planner RV LIFE Campground Reviews RV Maintenance Take a Speed Test Free 7 Day Trial ×


Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 05-27-2019, 08:24 PM   #1
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2015
Posts: 151
Oops. Forgot to blow out my toilet valve last Fall

First trip of the new year. We get to the campsite and get set up and relax. A little while later, my wife yells from the bathroom "We've got a leak!"

Sure enough, drip, drip, drip from the valve at the base/back of the toilet. It immediately dawns on me that I probably didn't step on the flush when blowing out my lines last Fall - cr@p!

I disconnected the water line but it wasn't immediately obvious to me how to get the valve out. I went to the dometic web site and looked for the toilet manual and found a valve replacement document. You have to squeeze some tabs that don't want to move but I eventually got it out. I also had to uncrimp the hose crimp on the vacuum breaker tube but finally got that off.

I called around to a couple of RV stores and finally found someone who had it who was about 20 miles away. Oh well, gotta have a toilet...

Got the part, put it all back together and - no drip! Yay!

Just now I found the dometic toilet manual online and found the section on the valve. There is apparently a freeze indicator window that indicates if the valve has been damaged by freezing. My valve had the telltale white stress cracks that, I guess, show that the part has been frozen so they don't have to cover damage because of it - who knew!

I also found the part online for around $16. Just a tad less than the $48 the dealer charged me...

Anyway, don't forget to blow out your toilet!
__________________
2015 268RKS Vibe Xtreme Lite
2012 F-150 EcoSCREW Max Tow
tmhudg is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-27-2019, 09:30 PM   #2
Pickin', Campin', Mason
 
5picker's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: South Western PA
Posts: 19,074
Even when remembering to step on the toilet valve during winterization, many folks still report the valve breaking because droplets of water run back down into the valve from the rim of the toilet.

Using R/V antifreeze will eliminate those water drops that can (and do) cause freeze damage.
__________________
2022 Cedar Creek 345IK 5th Wheel•Solar & Inverter•2017 Ford F-Series SCREW 4x4•Factory Puck•B&W Companion•TST Tire Monitor w/Repeater•Sinemate 3500w Gen.
F&AM Lodge 358 Somerset, PA - JAFFA Shrine - Altoona, PA

Days Camped '19=118 '20=116 '21=123 '22=134 '23=118 '24=86
5picker is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-27-2019, 09:52 PM   #3
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: Brighton, CO
Posts: 180
As 5Picker noted, air cannot get all the drops out...so it is safest to use RV antifreeze. Also, using a garage compressor to blow out the lines can introduce unwanted bacteria into your system. Those air hoses, compressor motors, etc. do not deliver clean and sanitary air...it is dirty air. So, if you choose that method, be sure to sanitize your entire system well with chlorine bleach...or you may end up with a very unhealthy water situation. Might be preferable to skip the air completely...
__________________
__________________________________________

2014 Spartan 1032
2015 GMC 3500HD Denali 4WD/Duramax
RockyMtnMarty is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-28-2019, 06:06 AM   #4
Trailer Park Supervisor
 
NJKris's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2018
Location: Northern NJ
Posts: 8,442
Funny thing, when I summer-ized trailer this spring after late fall winter delivery, I noticed no pink stuff coming out of faucets. I called dealer and they said they don't use anti-freeze, they only blow the lines. I think I will be using the pink stuff just for the traps and toilet seal. And I won't be forgetting to drain and blow out that flush valve! And I will sanitize as recommended starting next Spring.
__________________
2019 Rockwood Geo Pro G19FD w/off road package
2015 Ford F150 XLT Super Cab 4x4 V8
Yes, I drink the water!
NJKris is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-28-2019, 07:18 AM   #5
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2018
Posts: 191
Quote:
Originally Posted by NJKris View Post
Funny thing, when I summer-ized trailer this spring after late fall winter delivery, I noticed no pink stuff coming out of faucets. I called dealer and they said they don't use anti-freeze, they only blow the lines. I think I will be using the pink stuff just for the traps and toilet seal. And I won't be forgetting to drain and blow out that flush valve! And I will sanitize as recommended starting next Spring.
I always suck a little antifreeze into the water pump as well after I blow the lines out.

Bob
HappyTrav is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-28-2019, 08:18 AM   #6
Site Team
 
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Northen IL
Posts: 8,288
We need to bookmark this thread and save it for this fall when the people will be asking which is better, blowing out the lines only or using the pink stuff.
Iwritecode is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 05-28-2019, 08:44 AM   #7
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2017
Location: Canada
Posts: 172
Everyone has their preference. Mine is the pink stuff, it makes me feel better when I see it cooking through each valve. Last February was very cold here...-30 deg C for most of it. I need to install a bypass for the filter system or delete it. I've never had a filter in it and it uses additional antifreeze. I have had a few mishaps but never a frozen trailer. Once I drained the HW tank but forgot to bypass it and pumped some pink stuff through it. This spring I couldn't get the pump to prime from the tank...after a couple of minutes I remembered to close the suction valve for the antifreeze line. I have a bit of a mental list for winterizing, don't forget the outdoor shower, toilet and to ensure the drain is open in the FW tank. I also double check the HW tank is drained.
Hoyt is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-28-2019, 08:57 AM   #8
Moderator Emeritus
 
acadianbob's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: St. Paul, Minnesota
Posts: 3,365
I don't see the point in using air blowout. You can't count on it to get everything out and then you wind up using the pink stuff anyway. I just use the pint stuff. It takes 2 gallons and about 10 minutes. Our trailer survived an actual -37F this winter here in Minnesota.
__________________
https://i421.photobucket.com/albums/pp297/acadianbob/IMG_2757.jpg
2021 F350 Lariat 7.3 4X4 w 4.30s, 2018 Wildcat 29RLX
2012 BMW G650GS, Demco Premiere Slider
1969 John Deere 1020, 1940 Ford 9N, 1948 Ford 8N
Jonsered 535, Can of WD-40, Duct Tape
Red Green coffee mugs
acadianbob is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-28-2019, 09:17 AM   #9
Senior Member
 
Join Date: May 2017
Posts: 334
Pink stuff wouldn't have helped the OP. He admits that he forgot to step on the valve of the toilet when winterizing. Air or pink stuff doesn't help when you don't open the valve of that line to let what ever method you are using to pass through.

The moral of this story doesn't have to do with which method you choose. It has to do with not forgetting any of the water lines in your unit.
joeuncool is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-28-2019, 09:17 AM   #10
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2012
Posts: 10,907
Quote:
Originally Posted by acadianbob View Post
I don't see the point in using air blowout. You can't count on it to get everything out and then you wind up using the pink stuff anyway. I just use the pint stuff. It takes 2 gallons and about 10 minutes. Our trailer survived an actual -37F this winter here in Minnesota.
Mine has survived -30F in Illinois with only air.
__________________
1988 Coleman Sequoia - popup (1987-2009) - outlasted 3 Dodge Grand Caravans!
2012 Roo19 - hybrid (2012-2015)

2016 Mini Lite 2503S - tt (2015 - ???)
2011 Traverse LT, 3.6L, FWD
2009 Silverado 1500 Ext Cab, 5.3L, 4x4, 3.73
2016 Silverado 2500HD Dbl Cab, 6.0L 4x4, 4.10
rockfordroo is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-28-2019, 10:28 AM   #11
Site Team
 
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Northen IL
Posts: 8,288
Quote:
Originally Posted by joeuncool View Post
Pink stuff wouldn't have helped the OP. He admits that he forgot to step on the valve of the toilet when winterizing. Air or pink stuff doesn't help when you don't open the valve of that line to let what ever method you are using to pass through.

The moral of this story doesn't have to do with which method you choose. It has to do with not forgetting any of the water lines in your unit.
True, but I always have visual confirmation that I stepped on the valve because I have pink stuff in my toilet. Which is a nice little reminder.
Iwritecode is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 05-28-2019, 01:37 PM   #12
KAS
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: VIRGINIA
Posts: 268
Quote:
Originally Posted by joeuncool View Post
Pink stuff wouldn't have helped the OP. He admits that he forgot to step on the valve of the toilet when winterizing. Air or pink stuff doesn't help when you don't open the valve of that line to let what ever method you are using to pass through.

The moral of this story doesn't have to do with which method you choose. It has to do with not forgetting any of the water lines in your unit.
I have blown out the lines with the toilet valve open (pedal down) 2 winters in a row, and the valve froze and cracked anyway (probably water remnant backflow). Since using the pink stuff, I have had no more problems. I have been thinking of installing a drain valve at the low point, just in case.
I would prefer not to have to use the pink stuff, since my water tank doesn't have a drain (why not???) and the only way to get the water, pink stuff, and bleach out of the water tank and to flush it is with the pump (royal PITA!).
KAS is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-28-2019, 01:40 PM   #13
Pickin', Campin', Mason
 
5picker's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: South Western PA
Posts: 19,074
Quote:
Originally Posted by KAS View Post
I have blown out the lines with the toilet valve open (pedal down) 2 winters in a row, and the valve froze and cracked anyway (probably water remnant backflow). Since using the pink stuff, I have had no more problems. I have been thinking of installing a drain valve at the low point, just in case.
I would prefer not to have to use the pink stuff, since my water tank doesn't have a drain (why not???) and the only way to get the water, pink stuff, and bleach out of the water tank and to flush it is with the pump (royal PITA!).
I have never seen a fresh water tank without a drain in an R/V.
That had to be a mistake!
__________________
2022 Cedar Creek 345IK 5th Wheel•Solar & Inverter•2017 Ford F-Series SCREW 4x4•Factory Puck•B&W Companion•TST Tire Monitor w/Repeater•Sinemate 3500w Gen.
F&AM Lodge 358 Somerset, PA - JAFFA Shrine - Altoona, PA

Days Camped '19=118 '20=116 '21=123 '22=134 '23=118 '24=86
5picker is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-28-2019, 01:45 PM   #14
KAS
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: VIRGINIA
Posts: 268
Quote:
Originally Posted by 5picker View Post
I have never seen a fresh water tank without a drain in an R/V.
That had to be a mistake!
I was thinking that too, but then I thought maybe it was the latest dumb idea by FR to cut down on leaks.
Maybe I can have somebody (competent!) install a drain for me.
P.S.: It's a 2013 Sunseeker 2250SLEC, does anyone else have one and does it have a drain? I would be curious to see whether mine WAS a mistake.
KAS is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-28-2019, 01:56 PM   #15
Senior Member
 
Join Date: May 2017
Posts: 334
Quote:
Originally Posted by KAS View Post
I have blown out the lines with the toilet valve open (pedal down) 2 winters in a row, and the valve froze and cracked anyway (probably water remnant backflow). Since using the pink stuff, I have had no more problems. I have been thinking of installing a drain valve at the low point, just in case.
I would prefer not to have to use the pink stuff, since my water tank doesn't have a drain (why not???) and the only way to get the water, pink stuff, and bleach out of the water tank and to flush it is with the pump (royal PITA!).
I use air and haven't had a problem yet. What I wonder about is if people take the time that air requires. Takes me just over 2 hours to fully winterize the trailer for winter. Using anti freeze would be much quicker, 30 minutes or less, but I prefer to not use it in my fresh water system.

I go through each line and blow it until no water comes out at all. You can get random spits if you give it a few minutes so I let the air go until I think I am done and then let it go some more. I also watch the air pressure in the tank and make sure that I am pushing 40-50 lbs the entire time. Then, once all the lines are done, I go through all of them again.
joeuncool is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-28-2019, 01:58 PM   #16
KAS
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: VIRGINIA
Posts: 268
Quote:
Originally Posted by 5picker View Post
I have never seen a fresh water tank without a drain in an R/V.
That had to be a mistake!
Did a search and found this:

Quote:
In my new 2250SLE there is a storage compartment at the rear of the coach, driver's side. The electrical cord is also housed there. At the top forward side of that compartment is a round access hatch. If I unscrew and open that hatch, the fresh water tank drain valve is there.

My low point drains are found at the bottom of the coach to the left of the coach door .

Hope this helps.

__________________
2017 Forest River Sunseeker 2250SLE


I'll check it out!!!
KAS is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-28-2019, 03:55 PM   #17
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2017
Location: Berks County, PA
Posts: 208
FW Tank Drain

Quote:
Originally Posted by 5picker View Post
I have never seen a fresh water tank without a drain in an R/V.
That had to be a mistake!
My FW tank has a drain but with downward curvature of the tank, the drain does NOT get rid of all the water.

My solution is to install a 1-1/4” PVC flange (trace out and drill for bolts with fender washers installed inside the tank under bolt heads). Reduce down to 1/2” FPT , install 90 and a valve. This way I will have ALL the water in the tank available and not have lots of stagnant water over the off-season.

There are kits to do this but they are way expensive. With a flange, gasket, hardware and fittings, should be less than $50.
Waterops1 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-28-2019, 05:26 PM   #18
Ham Call N8SAC
 
Maxwell D Pratt's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2017
Location: Wayne County
Posts: 175
If you live where freezing temp happen . Always use anti freeze. The cost is less than $10 and takes les than 10 minutes. Tried to winterize one year with air . Cost me $350 to replace lines next spring.
Maxwell D Pratt is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-28-2019, 06:09 PM   #19
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2012
Posts: 10,907
A little water laying in the bottom of the FW tank will not hurt it.
__________________
1988 Coleman Sequoia - popup (1987-2009) - outlasted 3 Dodge Grand Caravans!
2012 Roo19 - hybrid (2012-2015)

2016 Mini Lite 2503S - tt (2015 - ???)
2011 Traverse LT, 3.6L, FWD
2009 Silverado 1500 Ext Cab, 5.3L, 4x4, 3.73
2016 Silverado 2500HD Dbl Cab, 6.0L 4x4, 4.10
rockfordroo is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-28-2019, 06:35 PM   #20
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2017
Location: Berks County, PA
Posts: 208
Water left in FW tank

Unfortunately, in my case, there appears to be several gallons of water being retained that is otherwise unavailable. My tank has a substantial bow in it. So much so, that I replaced the cheap sheet metal straps installed by FR with chain covered by garden hose. I don’t intend to be one of the few folks that drop a tank on the road.
Waterops1 is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Tags
valve

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


» Featured Campgrounds

Reviews provided by

Disclaimer:

This website is not affiliated with or endorsed by Forest River, Inc. or any of its affiliates. This is an independent, unofficial site.



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 10:35 AM.