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Old 08-30-2014, 10:15 AM   #1
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Plan on installing Quickie Flush to our tanks

Hi there,

So far we are really enjoying our trailer, it's perfect for my hubbie and me. This last trip (our 3rd), we found that we were unable to dump so that the sensor would read as Empty. It's staying at 1/3 and we are thinking that it's because there's some toilet paper stuck on an indicator.

I called our dealer and they said that wet sensors can give a false reading and suggested that after dumping, we put a vented waste valve cap on so it drys the tanks out. Not really liking that idea - 1) because my hubbie doesn't like the idea of the valves staying open while driving on the open road and 2) what if the tank isn't really empty of waste and we end up with dried up waste stuck to our tanks and/or the waste ends up leaking out the vent cap while we're on the road or while in storage - yuck!

I'm relaying this story b/c I'm interested in what you think about their suggestion, but also to explain why we are going to install tank flushes to both our galley/grey and black tanks. Galley is fine, but we figure why not have a way of thoroughly cleaning it too!

Our tanks run long and narrow the width of our trailer and the opening for emptying the tanks are at the long end of the tanks. I believe the instructions will tell us to install the flush on the same side as the opening. Main question here is: How effective do you think the flush will be at reaching and cleaning the opposite end of these long and narrow tanks?

I appreciate your thoughts on this
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2014 Wildwood 231RBXL - Traded Her In
2016 Days Camped = 5; Reserved = 14 so far
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Old 08-30-2014, 10:32 AM   #2
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I don't really understand what your dealer is talking about...all tanks are vented to the roof. I don't think it's wise at all to have a dry, empty black tank...ours never is except after winterizing.

Adding a black tank flush would be beneficial...the installation instructions should say where to locate it. Purchase a clear elbow and flush until clear after dumping. Search the GEO Method on here for more information on keeping the tanks /sensors clean.

I wouldn't bother adding risers to the gray or galley tanks as they're mostly soapy water though I'd minimize the amount of food waste going into the galley tank. I also sanitize the galley tank once per year with a bleach solution.

I wouldn't fret too much about the indicated tank levels as they're inaccurate for the most part. You'll soon get used to the tanks capacity in terms of days use and empty accordingly. It easy to just look down the toilet into the tank to determine black tank in a TT...not so easy in a 5th wheel.

Dave
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Old 08-30-2014, 10:38 AM   #3
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You should never your tank dry especially your black tank.

never rely on the tank sensors for empty or full.
Rarely are they accurate.

Changing to horst probes will help.

After using the camper for awhile you'll get a feel for actual tank status.

Also do a search on "go method"

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Old 08-30-2014, 10:43 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dave_Monica View Post
I don't really understand what your dealer is talking about...all tanks are vented to the roof. I don't think it's wise at all to have a dry, empty black tank...ours never is except after winterizing.

Dave

Thanks for confirming what we thought about our dealer's suggestion, didn't make sense to us either.

BTW, they want to charge us over $300 to install a tank flush, but after looking at our tanks we feel pretty confident we can do it ourselves

That's part of the fun of owning a trailer, all the little projects
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Old 08-30-2014, 10:52 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dave_Monica View Post
Search the GEO Method on here for more information on keeping the tanks /sensors clean.

Dave
I have searched the GEO Method, but I get confused b/c everyone seems to have a different idea on how much to use. Some say a cup of each, others a 1/2 cup or still others a capful! Our tank is 32 gallons, if that helps. Then I get confused about when it's supposed to be used. Some say before a trip, some say after every dump. I'm a recipe follower and there are so many recipes!
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2011 Carriage Cabo 341
2014 Wildwood 231RBXL - Traded Her In
2016 Days Camped = 5; Reserved = 14 so far
2015 Days Camped = 24 / 2014 Days Camped = 23
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Old 08-30-2014, 11:03 AM   #6
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A 1/2 cup of each is fine along with 3-5 gallons of water. You'd want to do this after dumping the tanks so the solution can coat the inside of the tank on the trip home.

Don't worry too much about measuring accuracy...I just pour the ingredients in. After all we're not making cake!

Dave
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Old 08-30-2014, 11:10 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dave_Monica View Post
A 1/2 cup of each is fine along with 3-5 gallons of water. You'd want to do this after dumping the tanks so the solution can coat the inside of the tank on the trip home.

Don't worry too much about measuring accuracy...I just pour the ingredients in. After all we're not making cake!

Dave
LOL! I do tend to get hung up on the details! and it makes sense to do this after every dump, thanks so much!
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Michelle Evans
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2011 Carriage Cabo 341
2014 Wildwood 231RBXL - Traded Her In
2016 Days Camped = 5; Reserved = 14 so far
2015 Days Camped = 24 / 2014 Days Camped = 23
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Old 08-30-2014, 11:59 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mrs Evans View Post
Hi there,

So far we are really enjoying our trailer, it's perfect for my hubbie and me. This last trip (our 3rd), we found that we were unable to dump so that the sensor would read as Empty. It's staying at 1/3 and we are thinking that it's because there's some toilet paper stuck on an indicator.

I called our dealer and they said that wet sensors can give a false reading and suggested that after dumping, we put a vented waste valve cap on so it drys the tanks out. Not really liking that idea - 1) because my hubbie doesn't like the idea of the valves staying open while driving on the open road and 2) what if the tank isn't really empty of waste and we end up with dried up waste stuck to our tanks and/or the waste ends up leaking out the vent cap while we're on the road or while in storage - yuck!

I'm relaying this story b/c I'm interested in what you think about their suggestion, but also to explain why we are going to install tank flushes to both our galley/grey and black tanks. Galley is fine, but we figure why not have a way of thoroughly cleaning it too!

Our tanks run long and narrow the width of our trailer and the opening for emptying the tanks are at the long end of the tanks. I believe the instructions will tell us to install the flush on the same side as the opening. Main question here is: How effective do you think the flush will be at reaching and cleaning the opposite end of these long and narrow tanks?

I appreciate your thoughts on this
To be kind, your dealer is looking for work (to be completely unkind they are idiots).

Please do not spend all that money to install tank flushers! If you Must Flush, by this $26 gadget (i used to own one and it really works - on both grey and black tanks):

http://www.amazon.com/Camco-39062-Fl...lex+tank+rinse

Now on to what is REALLY wrong with your tanks. Go to the following URL and watch the videos - they will explain better than I ever could in words how tank sensors work and why you want to buy a set of Hoarst Miracle Probes

Horst Miracle Probes for Wastewater Tanks in Recreational Vehicles RVs

Finally, search the FRF for info on tank additives to keep them clean (some of us use OC's home brew of 1 part each SuperClean, Pinesol & Water)

Ever few trips I also use RVDigestIt - expensive stuff so I do not use it all the time but I use it to maintain a good biologic population in the tanks (thems what munches yer, em, solids )
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Old 08-30-2014, 02:57 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HSVBamaBob View Post
To be kind, your dealer is looking for work (to be completely unkind they are idiots).

Please do not spend all that money to install tank flushers! If you Must Flush, by this $26 gadget (i used to own one and it really works - on both grey and black tanks):

Amazon.com: Camco 39062 Dual Flush Pro Holding Tank Rinser with Gate Valve: Automotive

Now on to what is REALLY wrong with your tanks. Go to the following URL and watch the videos - they will explain better than I ever could in words how tank sensors work and why you want to buy a set of Hoarst Miracle Probes

Horst Miracle Probes for Wastewater Tanks in Recreational Vehicles RVs

Finally, search the FRF for info on tank additives to keep them clean (some of us use OC's home brew of 1 part each SuperClean, Pinesol & Water)

Ever few trips I also use RVDigestIt - expensive stuff so I do not use it all the time but I use it to maintain a good biologic population in the tanks (thems what munches yer, em, solids )
Thanks so much! We definitely are NOT going to spend $300 for them to install a turboflush , but after taking a look at our tanks we feel pretty confident we can do the install ourselves b/c we really like the way a turboflush works. We already have a tool like the Camco one you linked to and it works ok, but we find that the way the pipe to our tank is configured, we lose some of the effectiveness of how it was intended to work.

As for the Horst Probes, I just placed my order! Even though many are used to them not working right and ignore the sensors, I would really really like to have them working as intended. The installation does not appear to be very difficult, the hardest part appears to be the removal of the old sensors and then I found this video about how to do that so hey! I'm ready to get the job done!

Still working on a plan for when to use the Geo Method and when to use Digest IT and when to use bleach, etc.

I do have a question about Digest It - We do not have sewer hookups at our home and it's stored in an storage unit so when it comes time to use DigestIT, b/c it's supposed to sit with a tank full of water for 24 to 72 hours, I would probably need to bring it to my home 72 hours before a trip to the dump station to add it and then I wonder (b/c I'm still new and don't know these things) how smart is it to travel with a full tank of this stuff to get to a dumping station? Not worried about the weight so much as all the sloshing around, maybe no big deal, but I don't know?
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Michelle Evans
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2011 Carriage Cabo 341
2014 Wildwood 231RBXL - Traded Her In
2016 Days Camped = 5; Reserved = 14 so far
2015 Days Camped = 24 / 2014 Days Camped = 23
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Old 08-30-2014, 04:37 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mrs Evans View Post
Thanks so much! We definitely are NOT going to spend $300 for them to install a turboflush , but after taking a look at our tanks we feel pretty confident we can do the install ourselves b/c we really like the way a turboflush works. We already have a tool like the Camco one you linked to and it works ok, but we find that the way the pipe to our tank is configured, we lose some of the effectiveness of how it was intended to work.

As for the Horst Probes, I just placed my order! Even though many are used to them not working right and ignore the sensors, I would really really like to have them working as intended. The installation does not appear to be very difficult, the hardest part appears to be the removal of the old sensors and then I found this video about how to do that so hey! I'm ready to get the job done!

Still working on a plan for when to use the Geo Method and when to use Digest IT and when to use bleach, etc.

I do have a question about Digest It - We do not have sewer hookups at our home and it's stored in an storage unit so when it comes time to use DigestIT, b/c it's supposed to sit with a tank full of water for 24 to 72 hours, I would probably need to bring it to my home 72 hours before a trip to the dump station to add it and then I wonder (b/c I'm still new and don't know these things) how smart is it to travel with a full tank of this stuff to get to a dumping station? Not worried about the weight so much as all the sloshing around, maybe no big deal, but I don't know?
No problem at all traveling with full tanks! Several times a year we dry camp and are sorta loaded to the gills when we leave and head for the closest interstate rest area dump station
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