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Old 12-26-2018, 06:05 PM   #1
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Pumping water from bottle to tank

I got a 12 volt water pump for Christmas so that I can pump water from a water jug into the trailer water tank without having to pick up the bottle & set up platform to fill the tank. This question is for those have done this, what have you mounted to pump to or how have you done this. Pics would be nice if you have them available.
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Old 12-26-2018, 06:20 PM   #2
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You could use a jump box to power the pump then hoses to connect to the pump. I use a jump box to power an air pump for filling the tires and the winch on my trailer for loading cars.
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Old 12-26-2018, 06:29 PM   #3
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I mounter the pump to a 2X6 base for support then used a trailer connector to connect to Bargman connector on the TV.
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Old 12-26-2018, 07:00 PM   #4
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I mounter the pump to a 2X6 base for support then used a trailer connector to connect to Bargman connector on the TV.
I bought an RV water pump and just wired a switch and inline fuse to it, with a #14 awg extension cord and battery clips.

Pump really doesn't need to be attached to anything. My pump came with 1/2" adapters from the threaded connectors on pump to PEX pipe. I took an old hose that came with an external water filter, cut it in half and one end now has male hose fitting and other the female. Hose ID was perfect.

I use the same suction hose to pick up water ( use "water cubes" but 5 gal drinking water jugs would work too) as I use to pick up Anti-freeze when I winterize. My wiring is long enough I can leave my water "cubes" in the truck and just run a regular water hose to my fill inlet. I could even just run the hose to my city water inlet if I just needed a few gallons for a quick stop. Pump is a direct replacement for the onboard water pump, just a lot less expensive than the Shur-flow.
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Old 12-27-2018, 06:05 PM   #5
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Great topic.

I boondock exclusively. My PUP's tank holds only 20 gallons (plus 6 in the HW heater).
I carry 4 x 7-Gallon reliance jugs, and I've made an adapter for "pouring" the water from the jugs into the tank. But I'm old (70) so holding 60 pounds of water high enough to transfer from a jug into my high-wall PUP, that has also been lifted for off-road, is also getting old. My fill pipe is about 40" off the ground or more.

I've been thinking of getting an in-bed water tank that could hold 30 to 50 gallons and using an RV water pump or similar to pump water from the truck bed to the RV holding tank. I'm imagining I could run the pump from the TV cigarette lighter socket, and adapt the pump output to a conventional RV potable water hose fitting.

Has anyone ever done this? If so, what did you do? I've looked at tanks, and many are either huge for a good price or insanely expensive. I want to keep the tank small enough that I can drain it and take it out of the truck bed between trips...perhaps mounted, with pump, on a plywood base.
Thoughts?
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Old 12-27-2018, 06:09 PM   #6
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I would run a seperate 12 volt outlet. The one on the dash does not like high draw constant draw for long. I ran heavy 14 gauge wire to a car trunk to use one of those 12 volt coolers with a ground wire and fused. Worked great and the outlet never got warm.
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Old 12-27-2018, 06:41 PM   #7
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I would run a seperate 12 volt outlet. The one on the dash does not like high draw constant draw for long. I ran heavy 14 gauge wire to a car trunk to use one of those 12 volt coolers with a ground wire and fused. Worked great and the outlet never got warm.
Good advice.
Did you pick it off the battery or the fuse panel somewhere?
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Old 12-27-2018, 06:43 PM   #8
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Good advice.

Did you pick it off the battery or the fuse panel somewhere?
Right off the battery for power and ground. Can't get better connections and performance. Fused it at the battery in a water or off housing, single fuse and heat shrunk connections.
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Old 12-27-2018, 10:08 PM   #9
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Pumping water from bottle to tank

I needed a lighter type receptacle at rear of trailer for satellite dish. So it does double duty using a rv water pump with fittings and pex hose for 5 gal jug and fill tube. Ran the heavier 2 wire zip cord with 2 amp fuse holder straight from battery.
Works great.
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Old 12-27-2018, 11:10 PM   #10
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Here is a picture of how I mounted my 12V pump on a board.
Click image for larger version

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I put a piece of PEX pipe on the suction end because the tubing just wouldn’t straighten out. I put a garden hose threaded fitting on the output end so I could attach that to my external filter housing before the water goes into the FW tank via a gravity fill port.

I used a waterproof electrical box for the on-off switch.
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Old 12-28-2018, 07:36 AM   #11
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Originally Posted by jimmoore13 View Post
Great topic.

I boondock exclusively. My PUP's tank holds only 20 gallons (plus 6 in the HW heater).
I carry 4 x 7-Gallon reliance jugs, and I've made an adapter for "pouring" the water from the jugs into the tank. But I'm old (70) so holding 60 pounds of water high enough to transfer from a jug into my high-wall PUP, that has also been lifted for off-road, is also getting old. My fill pipe is about 40" off the ground or more.

I've been thinking of getting an in-bed water tank that could hold 30 to 50 gallons and using an RV water pump or similar to pump water from the truck bed to the RV holding tank. I'm imagining I could run the pump from the TV cigarette lighter socket, and adapt the pump output to a conventional RV potable water hose fitting.

Has anyone ever done this? If so, what did you do? I've looked at tanks, and many are either huge for a good price or insanely expensive. I want to keep the tank small enough that I can drain it and take it out of the truck bed between trips...perhaps mounted, with pump, on a plywood base.
Thoughts?
We winter camp in Nh and we use a 30 gal transfer tank, I think I paid around $115 last year. We fill the tank at the bath house in our campground with the tank in the back of my truck. We use a 115V pump instead of a 12vdc one and it works great. We have valves on the tank to control the water flow after the tank is filled, then when all hooked to the pump and trailer open the valve and turn the pump on. works great!

I also mounted the pump on a piece of plywood with a on/off switch. A short piece of hose from the tank to the pump and a longer hose to your trailer, and you are good to go!
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Old 12-28-2018, 11:04 PM   #12
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My pump setup is similar to others described here. I used a Shurflo 12v rv pump because I will use it mostly for washing my trailer and I want the pump to shut off when I shut off the hose nozzle. I used a 7 pin trailer plug which I insert in the TV socket for power. To test the setup I used my Yeti 65 qt. cooler for a water tank. Between the “tank” and the pump I used a screen filter sold for use with a pressure washer. Even when up on the roof there is plenty of pressure for washing using the hose and nozzle. Today I ordered a 50 gal. potable water tank from Northern Tool for $143 shipped. So far I am very pleased with this setup.
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Old 12-29-2018, 09:09 AM   #13
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Itat : I use the same system you do . But use a 15 gal tank in back of truck. Drive the pump off a separate battery in an amp box. Use hose connections on it .
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Old 12-29-2018, 09:36 AM   #14
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Itat : I use the same system you do . But use a 15 gal tank in back of truck. Drive the pump off a separate battery in an amp box. Use hose connections on it .
We do a fair bit of camping at Provincial Parks here in Ontario. Their water taps don’t have a hose fitting and the valve handle is spring loaded to shut off. Even using one of those Camco “water bandit” gizmos is a pain, so we just use 6 gal containers. It’s a two-handed operation to fill the containers. I use a small hand truck to bring them back to the campsite 2 at a time.
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Old 12-29-2018, 12:28 PM   #15
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We winter camp in Nh and we use a 30 gal transfer tank, I think I paid around $115 last year. We fill the tank at the bath house in our campground with the tank in the back of my truck. We use a 115V pump instead of a 12vdc one and it works great. We have valves on the tank to control the water flow after the tank is filled, then when all hooked to the pump and trailer open the valve and turn the pump on. works great!

I also mounted the pump on a piece of plywood with a on/off switch. A short piece of hose from the tank to the pump and a longer hose to your trailer, and you are good to go!
Never thought of a 120 volt pump...great idea. I have a generator, and this activity is done seldom enough that it makes sense to run the pump on the genny rather than drain the TV battery.
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Old 12-29-2018, 01:14 PM   #16
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We do a fair bit of camping at Provincial Parks here in Ontario. Their water taps don’t have a hose fitting and the valve handle is spring loaded to shut off. Even using one of those Camco “water bandit” gizmos is a pain, so we just use 6 gal containers. It’s a two-handed operation to fill the containers. I use a small hand truck to bring them back to the campsite 2 at a time.

The faucets in our State Parks that have the spring loaded handles respond quite well to a vise grip attached to one of the ears once open. Fasten to handle tab (ours often have 4) and then just use a stick to prop vice grip in position. Saves cramped hands.

OR

Find a kid in the campground and pay them a couple of bucks (or a Toonie) to hold the handle for you.
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Old 12-29-2018, 01:19 PM   #17
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We have a ShurFlo pump I had bought several years ago for this very purpose. Our old trailer only had a 36 gallon fresh water tank. We dairyed years past so we just cleaned a food grade 55 gallon plastic drum to haul water in. We would fill it at home and take it with us.

The pu we have now belonged to my son, he had put a set of cables from the battery to the pu box. These cables are #4 cables with a 50 amp breaker to run a 12K lbs wench. I just plug into these to transfer water to the trailer, sometimes I just hook up to the city water and let the pu batteries power the pump on demand.

The toy hauler we have now has 166 gallons of fresh water so we don't us the barrel very often. Did loan the pump to a fellow camper once when his pump quit in his RV.
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Old 12-29-2018, 01:23 PM   #18
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I bought this tank from Tractor Supply and mounted it in the bed of our truck. I use a 12 volt pump I got from harbor freight to transfer the water to the camper.

https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/pr...k-35-gal?rfk=1

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Old 12-29-2018, 02:24 PM   #19
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A related question

I now see how we're all filling out tanks while I assume we're boondocking.

My question now is where are you putting the water once "used". I know a black tank can last quite a while of use of flush water is judicious but gray water tanks tend to fill rather quickly.

Are "trees or bushes in the desert" getting extra water (perhaps during hours of darkness) or are you all hauling it to a dump station?

I know that only so much water can be carried out internally to be deposited on a tree or bush outside the campsite. Usually that "water" started out as beer so wouldn't help the "used fresh water" backup much unless people were drinking lots of it.
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Old 12-29-2018, 03:31 PM   #20
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I now see how we're all filling out tanks while I assume we're boondocking.

My question now is where are you putting the water once "used". I know a black tank can last quite a while of use of flush water is judicious but gray water tanks tend to fill rather quickly.

Are "trees or bushes in the desert" getting extra water (perhaps during hours of darkness) or are you all hauling it to a dump station?

I know that only so much water can be carried out internally to be deposited on a tree or bush outside the campsite. Usually that "water" started out as beer so wouldn't help the "used fresh water" backup much unless people were drinking lots of it.
You and I have been around a while in the forums, so you may have seen my diatribes on grey water. You also know you just got the popcorn going.

My response:
1) If you're in a formal campground, follow the rules. This usually means a national forest campground with no hookups but with pit or vault toilets. Get a bucket (or better device) and carry your grey water to the vault toilet and dump it there. We are profligate water users, and 2 buckets a day is more than I generate (2 adults). If you can't carry a 5 gallon bucket, explore other options.

2) "Fancier" campgrounds (with electric and freshwater hookups, but no waste hookups) also expect your waste water (grey water) to be handled in a sanitary way...in the toilet is fine.

3) If you're in the bayou or swamp - I might ask WHY?? - soil conditions are not suitable for dumping grey water "on the trees." In any situation where there is lots of surface water or near-surface water, grey water should not be dumped on the ground.

4) All other situations (yes there will be exceptions): the BEST option is to dump it on some soon-to-be happy little trees. In the arid southwest, it's a crime to NOT "recycle" your grey water into irrigation water.

Rationale:
A) Grey water is nothing more than dishwater and shower water.
B) "Contaminants" in the water are soaps and food particles.
C) Soaps are "surfactants"...often used a soil amendments in turf management and agriculture. Dish soap is used to rescue wildlife from oil spills. You rub shampoos and bath soaps into your skin. Get over the soap issue.
D) A few practical steps in dishwashing are desirable for their own sake: use your paper napkin/paper towel to wipe off as much food residue as possible rather than attempting to run it down your drain. You don't have a disposal in your drain, so be smart and don't run food down the drain. What little is left on the dishes is insignificant in the grey water. NO, THE BEARS WON'T COME TO YOUR GREY WATER DUMP SITE. The bears will come to your grill, coolers, TV, RV, and mostly to any dumpster within miles before they'll come poking around for a few coffee grounds!
E) During the summer months, when most of us camp, and with climate change, conditions are increasingly dry. About 50% of the time in CO, there is a fire ban. Water is precious. Grey water has a second life keeping the forest healthy. And dumping 4 to 5 gallons of water in essentially one spot means that water actually penetrates the soil far enough to nurture and sustain the plants. A 1/4" rainstorm hardly penetrates at all before it evaporates unless you live in a very rainy area...(see #3).
F) Finally, you know all those hard core tent campers? Where does their grey water go? It's lucky if it makes it off the tent site into nearby bushes. And as a rule, your RV grey water will be far less contaminated by volume than tenter's grey water.
G) Which reminds me...ever pee in the woods?

One other point. The current trend of merging the grey water dump into the black water dump is a mistake.
a) Most rigs have a black-tank flush, so the grey water "chaser" theory is redundant at best. If you have a garden hose flushing the black tank until it runs clear, your dump hose is flushed as well. Duh!
b) The end of that black tank dump is, well, contaminated with black water. That means that grey water running through there gets contaminated with fecal matter. Yuk.
c) If you're a serious boondocker stuck with one of these dumb-assed arrangements, do some plumbing and add a grey water dump port upstream of the black-tank dump. You can have it both ways and protect your grey water from black water contamination so you can safely water the trees.



Let the pontificating begin.
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