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Old 10-21-2015, 12:20 PM   #21
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The only thing I did with city water connection is to put a air connector on an blow water out through faucets and toilet 🚽 then put antifreeze in fresh tank an use pump to put pink in everything .
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Old 10-21-2015, 12:34 PM   #22
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The only thing I did with city water connection is to put a air connector on an blow water out through faucets and toilet 🚽 then put antifreeze in fresh tank an use pump to put pink in everything .
Your in the -.001% that put A/F in your F/W Tank! Youroo!!
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Old 10-21-2015, 12:36 PM   #23
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I hate trying to make sure all the AF is out of my lines and flushed... I would go nuts trying to clear the FW tank!!!
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Old 10-21-2015, 12:40 PM   #24
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The water pump is only for drawing water from your potable water tank. The "city line" should provide its own pressure. Best to use a pressure limiter on city water and you could damage the pump if you run it on city water.
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Old 10-21-2015, 12:47 PM   #25
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Antifreeze does not taste very good, so not good to put in the potable water tank. Be sure you have drained the hot water heater and potable tank completely being careful that the low points are indeed low. Bypass your hot water heater or you will need 6-10 more unnecessary gallons of AF. Remove the water filter and screw the filter holder loosely. That last tip came from the RV repair shop that just winterized my unit today and they did not blow out the lines...only drained everything.
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Old 10-21-2015, 12:51 PM   #26
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youroo... I never told him to push it!
That's true, you didn't, 5picker!

Thanks for the warning, youroo, but you spoiled everyone's fun here. I would have had to wait about a year to try it anyway, since I delivered the Windjammer to deep winter storage yesterday.

doc73 & RiderBloke - There's always next year! We'll see how much of this I can remember.
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Old 10-21-2015, 01:04 PM   #27
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I just read a comment on another thread where someone mentioned putting the RV antifreeze into the city water connection when winterizing. That is the first time I have seen that mentioned. Should I do that when I winterize my Sunseeker?

The answer is; not if you make sure you blow air into that fitting. There are adapters you can buy online, I rigged one up myself, that allows you to blow out that circuit. The reason it's good to do so, is you want to clear the check valve of any residual water that may cause you issues when putting it back into use next year. It really is all a function of design, some drip clear, others hold some water in the check mechanism, resulting in issues. Which one happens in your rig, who knows, maybe other owners of your brand/model. But, it's not a bad idea incase yours acts differently.
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Old 10-21-2015, 01:44 PM   #28
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I have hooked up a pump to the city water inlet sucking from a 5 gal of antifreeze. The pump was 12 volt, I made a real long cord up with a switch on it and opened each faucet one at a time when it flowed pink I moved on to the nest fixture. The Park model had no pump on it. Bath and a half. Worked good.
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Old 10-21-2015, 01:54 PM   #29
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NO. When connected to city water your pump switch should be off.
Actually we leave ours on. At large rally's the water pressure is often all over the place. By leaving the pump on in the middle of a shower you don't get pressure imbalance and either burn/freeze what ever you are washing.
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Old 10-21-2015, 02:09 PM   #30
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Installing a LARGE pressure/bladder F/W tank will allow Constant water pressure on city or pump! No need for pump to even be on at night! Youroo!!
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Old 10-21-2015, 04:29 PM   #31
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30 years of winterizing I have never used antifreeze in my water system. I hook up my air compressor and evacuate all water. drain and flush all holding tanks, fill all p traps with antifreeze and the only problem I ever had was when I forgot to remove my water filter it cracked due to residual moisture but no problem since I replace it twice a year anyway.
We don't either. We put some antifreeze in the holding tanks just in case there is leftover fluids but otherwise, never use it in the water lines. We also leave all faucets open and all shutoff valves open, except holding tanks. Make sure the filter is out and that valve is blown dry.
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Old 10-21-2015, 05:51 PM   #32
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Lots of comments about spilling water taking out the filter and this and water in the city line can be solved easily. When I winterize I take the rubber cover off the city water connection then open the low point drains, you can hear the air being sucked in thru the city water connection. The water gravity drains and actually draws the water in the filter housing down about 1/4 of the way. I then can take off the filter housing without spilling water. Then put the housing back on without the filter and proceed with your favourite method of winterizing.
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Old 10-21-2015, 05:53 PM   #33
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I drain all water lines using the low point outlets. I then blow the lines from the city water inlet after draining and bypassing the water heater. I then pump RV antifreeze into the lines, BUT then blow the lines again just to get the antifreeze out of the system leaving any low spots protected. We also pour antifreeze into the traps and both gray and black tanks. May be overkill, but it's worked for us, and we don't have the taste issues.
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Old 10-21-2015, 06:59 PM   #34
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For those of you who do not use antifreeze except on the traps, how do you make sure the water pump and water lines connected to the water pump are free of water?
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Old 10-21-2015, 07:11 PM   #35
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For those of you who do not use antifreeze except on the traps, how do you make sure the water pump and water lines connected to the water pump are free of water?
There is only one way, you can look at the bowl on the pump.

The water lines, S.W.A.G. method.
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Old 10-21-2015, 08:25 PM   #36
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There is only one way, you can look at the bowl on the pump.

The water lines, S.W.A.G. method.
Thanks! Ummmm, what is the S.W.A.G method?
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Old 10-21-2015, 10:47 PM   #37
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scientific wild @ss guess
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Old 10-22-2015, 06:17 PM   #38
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scientific wild @ss guess


Correct!
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