Removing Water Filter Housing

[5picker]

Originally Posted by A32Deuce

One good reason to remove would be where you live if you have to winterize it. Hard to get all the water out.

And the extra antifreeze needed to fill the canister unless you put an empty plastic bottle in it or golf balls.

itat, your plumbing set-up makes it a bit harder than most as your connections won't swivel and the PEX is short but removing it is still the best option.

[itat]

The little extra antifreeze it takes to fill the canister doesn’t cost much at all. A 1/2” Sharkbite straight coupling is about $13 up here. It would probably take 5 years of winterizing to equal $13 in extra antifreeze.

Either way it’s not much. Removing it really isn’t a need for me since it’s not the FR1 housing that’s prone to leaking.

[itat]

Just a final follow up on this thread. I decided in the end to remove the filter housing since my preference is to be able to drain the water system if the trailer is going to sit idle for more than a couple weeks. I cut the vertical PEX pipe on the outlet side, removed the PEX on that side from the housing, spun the filter housing off the threaded fitting on the inlet side and then installed the PVC union and a Sharkbite straight coupler. I just need to secure it down now.

[Dwilcox]

That works, but keep an eye on the female treads of that union. I would have used a brass union as I have seen many of them crack. You could add hose clamps over the female threads and lessen the chance of one or both leaking in the future.

[itat]

Here is my new setup with the water filter moved outside.




The filter housing sits in this Camco Water Filter Stand.
https://www.amazon.com/Camco-40775-U...H1342GEJCRKPPV

The upside-down blue recycling bin is a cover for my Hughes Autoformer since its not waterproof. The Autoformer sits on a brick and I use another brick on the blue bin to keep it from blowing over. I made a short 10' power cord to go between the Autoformer and the trailer and use a cable lock to secure it to the scissor jack.

[bbmuse]

I know your post is old. But, were you saying that by opening the low water drains, the water in the water filter will be siphoned out so that the filter could be changed without making a big mess?

[Villagerjjm]

Yes! I open the low point drains and allow the water to start draining out of the system. Then I will try to crank open the housing for the KW1 filter. If it does not budge, I will open the Cold water side on one of the faucets. That will usually be enough to ease the vacuum so that you can unscrew the housing. The vacuum caused by the water flowing out the low point drains will pull almost all the water through the filter and out of the housing.
I remove the filter and replace the housing. I will then attach a sanitized shop vac nozzle I made to the filter and run the shop vac to rapid dry the filter. Then I freeze the filter.