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Old 11-18-2012, 05:22 PM   #1
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Replace tank valves, help

I'm having trouble replacing the leaky valves. Research indicated this should be an easy job as long as the tanks are flushed. Well my tanks are really clean and the black tank valve came off ok. But the grey water valve is proving very difficult. For some reason 3 of the bolt heads are crushed. I've tried pliers, wrenches etc but nothing grabs so the other end just turns. Any ideas are appreciated - hope my comments make sense.
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Old 11-18-2012, 05:26 PM   #2
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Can you get a drill in there and drill the heads of the bolt off? Use a drill bit one size larger then the shank and center pumch the head right in the center, then take it slowly.
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Old 11-18-2012, 05:37 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ljcpmc View Post
I'm having trouble replacing the leaky valves. Research indicated this should be an easy job as long as the tanks are flushed. Well my tanks are really clean and the black tank valve came off ok. But the grey water valve is proving very difficult. For some reason 3 of the bolt heads are crushed. I've tried pliers, wrenches etc but nothing grabs so the other end just turns. Any ideas are appreciated - hope my comments make sense.
Can ya post a picture of bolts both sides? Drilling is an option but it'll be very difficult to stay in the center for 3/4"length or more.
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Old 11-18-2012, 06:00 PM   #4
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Try a easy out that you put on a drill, you can get all sizes at any hardware store.
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Old 11-18-2012, 07:21 PM   #5
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My money is on an easy out as well.
They make one for the nuts too.

Craftsman Bolt-Out Damaged Bolt/Nut Remover Set Reviews - Craftsman Community
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Old 11-18-2012, 08:18 PM   #6
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If you drill the heads till they come off you only have to drill the thickness 3/16-1/8th inch of the bolt head. The bolt head comes off the shank then you can use a small nail and tap the shank of the bolt and rounded nut out with no head on the bolt. I guess I should ask? We are talking about a bolt and nut that holds the blade assy together?

If not ignore everything I said. HAHAHA
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Old 11-18-2012, 08:18 PM   #7
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I have a set of those at work I use occasionaly, work good sometimes if you have plenty of space and sholder clearance. Most of the time vise-grips help, but if I don't have to reuse the bolt a 3" cutoff wheel works good. Drilling works very good as you only have to drill thru the head if you use a bit larger than the shank.
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Old 11-18-2012, 09:02 PM   #8
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Originally Posted by ljcpmc View Post
I'm having trouble replacing the leaky valves. Research indicated this should be an easy job as long as the tanks are flushed. Well my tanks are really clean and the black tank valve came off ok. But the grey water valve is proving very difficult. For some reason 3 of the bolt heads are crushed. I've tried pliers, wrenches etc but nothing grabs so the other end just turns. Any ideas are appreciated - hope my comments make sense.
Here's why I asked for a pic maybe no drill? You must reach under the white panel to operate the valves, not visible behind here. Panel is bolted piped, etc.
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Old 11-18-2012, 09:09 PM   #9
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Another option is to cut off the pipe as close to the valve as you can and replace the flanges, they are less than $5 and easy to install.
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Old 11-18-2012, 09:22 PM   #10
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Another option is to cut off the pipe as close to the valve as you can and replace the flanges, they are less than $5 and easy to install.
Good idea, slip on with ABS cement?
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Old 11-18-2012, 09:29 PM   #11
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Dremel tool with a cutoff wheel will cut the bolt head or nuts. Split the nuts on the back side.
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Old 11-18-2012, 09:33 PM   #12
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Right, ABS; not the usual PVC stuff. RV supply house should have it along with the fittings.
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Old 11-18-2012, 09:33 PM   #13
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Dremel tool with a cutoff wheel will cut the bolt head or nuts. Split the nuts on the back side.
That would work real good 2
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Old 11-19-2012, 08:17 AM   #14
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Thanks for the advice. I need to get some pictures. The assembly is a hex head bolt going thru the valve/flanges with a nut. The bolt head will not hold vise-grips or a small wrench. Tried drilling but can't get the drill in for 3 of the 4 bolts and the drill is not level with the remaining bolt causing it to slip into the plastic. Thinking about cutting. Manufacturer sure doesn't make it easy for this model RV.
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Old 11-19-2012, 09:53 AM   #15
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OK, I'm not able to picture the flange right now, but if there is a bolt, there is probably a nut (unless it is molded into the flange). If the nut can be reached a nut splitter would be an interesting tool to try. The tool might be available to rent or borrow at NAPA.
TEKTON 7580 Nut Splitter Set, 2-Piece - Amazon.com
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Old 11-19-2012, 10:09 AM   #16
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Originally Posted by ljcpmc View Post
Thanks for the advice. I need to get some pictures. The assembly is a hex head bolt going thru the valve/flanges with a nut. The bolt head will not hold vise-grips or a small wrench. Tried drilling but can't get the drill in for 3 of the 4 bolts and the drill is not level with the remaining bolt causing it to slip into the plastic. Thinking about cutting. Manufacturer sure doesn't make it easy for this model RV.
The valve is no doubt going to be replaced so, get a cutoff wheel, i.e. Dremel and cut the nuts or just cut the flange where the nuts go thru the flange. It's just plastic and very easy to cut.
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Old 11-19-2012, 01:31 PM   #17
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Did exactly what dunnnc recommended - cut thru the plastic of the valve and since I don't have a Dremel just drilled thru. Then it was relatively easy to get the bolts/nuts out. Could have saved myself so much time and effort yesterday trying to get those bolts/nuts out. Thanks everyone
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