Replacing black water valve

[dallasrules]

Has anyone replaced the black water valve?

We have a 2004 cedar creek 5er. The black water valve is stuck. I think it is partially open because a couple of cups of fluid will drain in a day. It won't move in or out. We dropped the underbelly section and can't get the valve to pull even at the source.

We ordered a new valve and we were supposed to go home, but now we might stay at the campground another 2 weeks. I am wondering if we can replace it here. A mobile TV guy came out and told us to order a cable, but we ordered the whole kit. He charged $80 for coming out just to look at it. He wants $200 to replace the valve and another $80 trip charge.

I don't see why we can't do it. Just wondering what we need besides the cable valve kit. Also looking for any advice.

[CHICKDOE]

i had to have mine replaced. i did not do it myself. it was done by a rv tech. the price you were quoted seems pretty good. it turns out the cable was more the issue than the valve itself. many people have posted on how to replace the valve and cable. the job seems straightforward (all mechanical, no electricity involved). but replace the cable and pay attention to how the cable is run. avoid any turns in the cable that can become kinks. that was our problem.

[brookstone345sa]

Had same issue as above. If you can manually open the valve, try a good black tank flush first. Also sometimes when they make the holes in black tank for the piping, they leave the piece cut out in the tank. When I took mine apart, that piece was blocking the valve. I removed it and lubed the rubber seals and works ok now. Check for kinks in cable. Excess toilet paper could also be the problem. You can't use too much water when flushing.

[tomkatb]

Mine froze up. Seemed impossible. Second year.

I decided to spray Silicone lube on the valve handle. Let it set a while. Sort of forced the handle out. Brute force. Now spray it with silicone twice a year.

Apparently the corrosion on the handle locked it up!

The fellow who looked at the valve and did nothing should not charge a second trip fee. Cause he should have had a valve on his truck!

Actually, changing a valve is not teal tough if you can get to it. 4 screws.

[dalford]

Your biggest issue is the black tank has black water in it. You just can’t remove that valve without it spilling out. If I were you, I’d replace the cable first and hope it opens. If it does, drain the tank and then deal with the valve.,,

[U.S.ArmyVeteran]

On our last trailer the black tank valve cable actually made a 180 degree turn on itself! Hopefully yours is not that way.


I lubricated everything and rerouted the cable. Worked fine.

[Janet Geal]

Do they all have cables attached to the opening valves? I thought you could just change the valve. Mine are hard to pull out. I put a little veg oil on them when I got them out. They're hard to pull out and in an awkward positions. Didn't know there's a cable attached to the valves too that needs to be changed. We have a used 2015 Palomino Puma TT.

[Bumby]

You have tissue jammed in the valve
Get a bucket for drain and a reciprocating saw
Drop the belly cover cut the black pipe so you can get a rubber connector with clamps to put it back on with
Lowe’s has the connectors
Remove the screws from valve and replace
The old one with new one
Some valves come with cable some with out
Put it back together and test before putting belly back
Once the belly cover is dropped you’ll see cables and make more sense
Take about hour by self

[pengle]

I have a 2012 Silverback 29RE. The black tank valve has stuck in the past. I had to remove that 4' x 8' sheet of thick plastic (coroplast?) under the trailer to gain access to the valve. The valve is sandwiched between two flanges of black plastic PVC. The 4 bolts others have mentioned go through a flange, then the valve, then the other flange. Then the nuts go on. Loosen the 4 nuts a couple of turns and then see if you can actuate the valve via the handle.

What I found on mine was that if the flanges aren't perfectly parallel when installed originally and if you tighten the 4 nuts you can bind the valve so that it is hard to open and close. I wedged pieces of wood between the frame and the PVC pipe to move the flanges into alignment. Then I could tighten the nuts and the valve was easier to open and close. The valve operates much better now.

[TGO Bill]

If yours has a handle that you just pull the valve, then you don't have cables.N to to be a smarty pants or nothing but It should be obvious if there is a cable or not.

[Bumby]

That’s about right if you can pry the opening and don’t
Screw up the rubber gaskets
Because of the gaskets are aligned they leak and work
Down the drain
I have replaced many and by cutting the pvc it gives more room

[fred3]

Also you can buy a valve body the attaches to the bayonet fitting as insurance. That's what I did to my rig as I thought I had closed the valves all the way and had an unpleasant surprise when i took off the cover/plug

[CaptnJohn]

Originally Posted by Bumby

You have tissue jammed in the valve
Get a bucket for drain and a reciprocating saw
Drop the belly cover cut the black pipe so you can get a rubber connector with clamps to put it back on with
Lowe’s has the connectors
Remove the screws from valve and replace
The old one with new one
Some valves come with cable some with out
Put it back together and test before putting belly back
Once the belly cover is dropped you’ll see cables and make more sense
Take about hour by self

It sounds like he is going to need a lot more than "a bucket".

[Bumby]

Replacing the valve has aroma to it if it’s not done right

[safrog]

I replaced mine with an electric valve. Found in Wes easier to run a wire to the valve than replacing it.

[Bumby]

Originally Posted by safrog

I replaced mine with an electric valve. Found in Wes easier to run a wire to the valve than replacing it.

But it still leak with tissue obstruction between the valve and rubber seal
I think the guy can open and close

[bzac1954]

Originally Posted by dallasrules

Has anyone replaced the black water valve?

We have a 2004 cedar creek 5er. The black water valve is stuck. I think it is partially open because a couple of cups of fluid will drain in a day. It won't move in or out. We dropped the underbelly section and can't get the valve to pull even at the source.

We ordered a new valve and we were supposed to go home, but now we might stay at the campground another 2 weeks. I am wondering if we can replace it here. A mobile TV guy came out and told us to order a cable, but we ordered the whole kit. He charged $80 for coming out just to look at it. He wants $200 to replace the valve and another $80 trip charge.

I don't see why we can't do it. Just wondering what we need besides the cable valve kit. Also looking for any advice.

If it were me I would do the work my self, just take proper precautions such as gloves and disposable overalls. I would also try this...loosen up the 4 nuts / bolts on the flange of the valve and see if the valve will then move, if it does that indicates it could use some lube instead of replacement. The are just thoughts and the internet can give many videos on how to go about this task. Don't get in a hurry BUT give yourself plenty of time to start & finish.

[Philandterry]

Originally Posted by dallasrules

Has anyone replaced the black water valve?

We have a 2004 cedar creek 5er. The black water valve is stuck. I think it is partially open because a couple of cups of fluid will drain in a day. It won't move in or out. We dropped the underbelly section and can't get the valve to pull even at the source.

We ordered a new valve and we were supposed to go home, but now we might stay at the campground another 2 weeks. I am wondering if we can replace it here. A mobile TV guy came out and told us to order a cable, but we ordered the whole kit. He charged $80 for coming out just to look at it. He wants $200 to replace the valve and another $80 trip charge.

I don't see why we can't do it. Just wondering what we need besides the cable valve kit. Also looking for any advice.

I just replaced mine. Wasn't hard, just frustrating. The pipes didn’t want to cooperate with me. You do need to have a clean empty tank though. You might want to drill a small hole above where the rod or cable attaches and shoot some silicone grease in there. Then put a small screw in the drilled hole so it doesn’t leak. The silicone may free the blade up enough to get it fully open. You have the problem of water seeping out leaving lots of solids to dry out in the tank. Might want to try putting Calgon laundry water softener and Dawn dish detergent down the tank to soften stuff up. Good Luck..... it's not as difficult as people make it out to be. Just be patient. I will say if the gaskets aren't in perfectly, it will leak. I had to reposition the gaskets several times before it didn’t leak.

[formerFR]

after this discussion, we'll all know why the RV guys charge what they do to solve our 'black water' problem!

[AbdRahim]

Originally Posted by tomkatb

Mine froze up. Seemed impossible. Second year.



I decided to spray Silicone lube on the valve handle. Let it set a while. Sort of forced the handle out. Brute force. Now spray it with silicone twice a year.



Apparently the corrosion on the handle locked it up!



The fellow who looked at the valve and did nothing should not charge a second trip fee. Cause he should have had a valve on his truck!



Actually, changing a valve is not teal tough if you can get to it. 4 screws.

I had mine replaced and then discovered all it needed was regular lubrication with silicone. I put a long tube on the WD40 SILICONE can and lubricate the inside and outside of the seals and the handle. Keeps it working well.