Rockwood Ultralite 2702ss Water Heater

[zwinning]

Does anyone happen to know the model number of the water heater in a Rockwood Ultralight 2702SS? Or know the part number for the electric heating element?

I won't be going out to the camper until Sunday afternoon I was hoping to get parts ordered and on the way.

[RandK-M]

It's awfully risky to order parts without verifying your exact model. It could be an out of the ordinary model. That said, I believe the most common in the lite Forest River trailers and the one in my MiniLite is the Suburban SW6DE which is the combination Propane & Electric 6 gallon water heater.

Ray

[5picker]

Originally Posted by RandK-M

It's awfully risky to order parts without verifying your exact model. It could be an out of the ordinary model. That said, I believe the most common in the lite Forest River trailers and the one in my MiniLite is the Suburban SW6DE which is the combination Propane & Electric 6 gallon water heater.

Ray

X2 on knowing first before ordering.

FR uses several different makes and several different models of water heaters.

What are you looking to order?

[bikendan]

The OP's Rockwood is a 2011.

[Larry-NC]

Originally Posted by bikendan

The OP's Rockwood is a 2011.

A 2011 is very likely to have the common element you see most frequently. It comes as 1440 or 1500 watts--they are interchangeable, doesn't matter which you use. Available at most hardware stores, Lowe's, Home Depot, Walmart online, and more.

If this is the first time you've (OP) done it, you MUST buy the inexpensive special wrench.

So you know what you are looking forward, here are the Amazon links.
Element
Wrench

Just noticed this cute little tool. If you don't already have a wrench for the anode rod, this one fits both the heater element and the anode rod.

[zwinning]

Thanks for the replies, for some reason I didn't get notifications for them. I went out to the camper today and it is a suburban SW6 DE. I did have the correct element and swapped it out.

Both the Old and the new elements tested with 14 ohms so I don't think that is my issue. I pulled the small rocker switch out and it does break the circuit. For some reason those wires only had two volts. Strange thing was no matter if it was toggled on or off or completely disconnected I still had 120 volts on the terminals for the element. I am not sure if that is normal or it was heating up in an empty water heater. It wasn't that way for long and still had 14 ohms so I don't think I burnt it up.

Anyone know what is normal behavior for them?

[Larry-NC]

Originally Posted by zwinning

Thanks for the replies, for some reason I didn't get notifications for them. I went out to the camper today and it is a suburban SW6 DE. I did have the correct element and swapped it out.

Both the Old and the new elements tested with 14 ohms so I don't think that is my issue. I pulled the small rocker switch out and it does break the circuit. For some reason those wires only had two volts. Strange thing was no matter if it was toggled on or off or completely disconnected I still had 120 volts on the terminals for the element. I am not sure if that is normal or it was heating up in an empty water heater. It wasn't that way for long and still had 14 ohms so I don't think I burnt it up.

Anyone know what is normal behavior for them?

ZW, you asked us about the element, and you've told us a few pieces of diagnostic information, but you've never told us what the problem is/was/.
What's going on? If you have

1. 120v across the element terminals, and
2. the element reads 14 ohms, and
3. there is water in the water heater, and
4. you haven't left the water heater bypassed from winterization, and
5. you have waited 30 minutes after turning it on,

then you should have hot water.

Mind going through the checklist above and letting us know what fixed it?

[zwinning]

I am headed out to the campground next Sunday so I can try it all again and report back.

I'm pretty sure I was out of bypass, since I usually pop the relief valve to fill to make sure I get as much air out as I can. The water would only get hot using the propane heat.

[Larry-NC]

Originally Posted by zwinning

I'm pretty sure I was out of bypass, since I usually pop the relief valve to fill to make sure I get as much air out as I can. The water would only get hot using the propane heat.

You are wasting your time. The hot outlet is at the same height on the tank as the relief valve. You can bleed the air from the tank to the same effect by running the hot water tap in the kitchen or lavatory sink.

[5picker]

Originally Posted by Larry-NC

You are wasting your time. The hot outlet is at the same height on the tank as the relief valve. You can bleed the air from the tank to the same effect by running the hot water tap in the kitchen or lavatory sink.

I agree bleeding the tank by a hot faucet accomplishes getting the air out of the tank just as does opening the T&P valve IF the bypass valves are properly oriented.

So with that said... I wouldn't say using the T&P valve is a waste of time since using it is the ONLY way to ensure the water heater is full of water.

With the water heater in bypass, you can run water out the faucet hot tap till the cows come home and there will never be water in the tank. There's been more than one fooled by this believing their water heater had water in it and then fried the element.

[zwinning]

So....

It seems my water heater was probably functioning correctly this entire time. The issue was the 90 degree shutoff valve for the bypass kit got tweaked and doesn't always allow hot water out of the water heater. Now that I'm back in the camper again I remember end of the season last year I wasn't getting water out of the hot side of the faucets and messed with the bypass. This allows cold water to flow.

I misremembered this (we only camped once lat year since I had newborn twins and the whole pandemic thing) and thought I had a different problem. I was able to get the valve opened part way to get the water flowing and will replace the valve.

Now I've got to figure out the new issues. My fridge immediately blows the 15 amp 12v fuse and the furnace won't run. I think they are on the same fuse. Looks like one of them has a short or a control board or something has issues. And I have a leak and a soft spot in the floor near my slide. Lots of fun. Still managed to have a great camping trip so far!