Routing the return hose for an Aquaview Sinkmiser

[chriscowles]

Help?

I'm installing an Aquaview Sinkmiser in my Rockwood 2507S. It's like the Showermiser that's standard on newer models but the heat-sensitive blue plastic piece is a mushroom-shaped button that mounts flush (sort of) with the counter.

Installation involves splicing into the PEX on the hot side and routing the diverted water back to the fresh tank. That return hose is by far the hardest part of the installation.

I'm using this vinyl water hose from Lowes which is the same material used by Rockwood for the connection between the fresh tank and the water pump. I plan to route the hose across the trailer from the kitchen (entry side) to the hot water heater compartment and loosened the Coroplast under the trailer to gain access.

Getting from the underside of the trailer to the water heater compartment is easy. There's already a hole drilled in the floor where the existing fresh water hose I'm teeing into goes up into it. (I guess I could tee into it under the floor but would rather it were in a place where I could inspect it.)

My question is about routing the hose from under the sink to under the floor on the kitchen side. The existing PEX is routed behind the oven, then down behind the electrical panel. My question regards the temps the vinyl would be subjected to when the oven was hot. The alternative to this route is to drill through the floor under the sink cabinet, but I'd rather not if avoidable.

In the space behind the oven, the PEX is encased in what seems to be a layer of insulation. Is that for protection from heat, as much as it is for protection from cold? The outer wall of the trailer is right there and is lauan paneling, so the risk of heat damage must be rather low. It has to meet safety standards.

I can secure the vinyl hose against the outside wall to be sure it doesn't contact the metal on the back of the oven, but should I be more concerned? Is there an insulation I can use? The basic foam freeze protection insulation doesn't seem appropriate.

[TitanMike]

Originally Posted by chriscowles

Help?

I'm installing an Aquaview Sinkmiser in my Rockwood 2507S. It's like the Showermiser that's standard on newer models but the heat-sensitive blue plastic piece is a mushroom-shaped button that mounts flush (sort of) with the counter.

Installation involves splicing into the PEX on the hot side and routing the diverted water back to the fresh tank. That return hose is by far the hardest part of the installation.

I'm using this vinyl water hose from Lowes which is the same material used by Rockwood for the connection between the fresh tank and the water pump. I plan to route the hose across the trailer from the kitchen (entry side) to the hot water heater compartment and loosened the Coroplast under the trailer to gain access.

Getting from the underside of the trailer to the water heater compartment is easy. There's already a hole drilled in the floor where the existing fresh water hose I'm teeing into goes up into it. (I guess I could tee into it under the floor but would rather it were in a place where I could inspect it.)

My question is about routing the hose from under the sink to under the floor on the kitchen side. The existing PEX is routed behind the oven, then down behind the electrical panel. My question regards the temps the vinyl would be subjected to when the oven was hot. The alternative to this route is to drill through the floor under the sink cabinet, but I'd rather not if avoidable.

In the space behind the oven, the PEX is encased in what seems to be a layer of insulation. Is that for protection from heat, as much as it is for protection from cold? The outer wall of the trailer is right there and is lauan paneling, so the risk of heat damage must be rather low. It has to meet safety standards.

I can secure the vinyl hose against the outside wall to be sure it doesn't contact the metal on the back of the oven, but should I be more concerned? Is there an insulation I can use? The basic foam freeze protection insulation doesn't seem appropriate.

If you are concerned you could use the fiberglass insulation Home Depot, etc sells for wrapping pipes that have heat tape added. The fiberglass won't melt and if the pipe gets a little warm, remember it has water in it to moderate the temperature.

[chriscowles]

Originally Posted by TitanMike

If you are concerned you could use the fiberglass insulation Home Depot, etc sells for wrapping pipes that have heat tape added. The fiberglass won't melt and if the pipe gets a little warm, remember it has water in it to moderate the temperature.

Thanks for the suggestion. I'll check it out.

[chriscowles]

Regarding having dropped the underbelly insulation paneling, can anyone tell me what the black foam insulation and the glossy black adhesive are, that are used to fill gaps and secure the insulation around irregularly shaped items? Specifically, there was a lot of both around the waste drain lines.

[5picker]

If the temperatures in the oven compartment get hot enough to do damage to the vinyl hose... other things are going to be damaged or on fire.

I don't know what model cooktop/oven you have but most of the Suburban models say 0" clearance between the unit and the bottom, side, rear of the enclosure.
That means something could be touching it and not cause an issue.

Take a look for your model.
Most all the installation manuals are online.

[5picker]

Originally Posted by chriscowles

Regarding having dropped the underbelly insulation paneling, can anyone tell me what the black foam insulation and the glossy black adhesive are, that are used to fill gaps and secure the insulation around irregularly shaped items? Specifically, there was a lot of both around the waste drain lines.

Spray foam and black sealant

Both are made in a black color.