Rusty anode rod threads

[cmar273225]

I have used dielectric grease on the tank threads and teflon tape on the anode.

[Villagerjjm]

I use dielectric grease that is labeled as non toxic. It does conduct electricity but it reduces the oxidation process dramatically and it is heat / water resistant. Not all are the same! Use the one that is labeled as non toxic!

[Mac549]

Originally Posted by cboss

I use one of these to clean the threads each time I remove the anode. It's called a "plumber's brush". Any hardware store will have them.

It is a copper fitting brush. Used to clean the inside of copper fittings before soldering the joint. They normally come in sizes from 1/2” up to 2”. Pick the one that fits best. We sometimes cut the handle off and put the end into a drill for better clean up. You won’t end up with rust on the threads. Put pipe thread compound on the threads, not tape and the rust will not return as quickly.

[bob213]

clean rod and threads with a wire brush and apply Rectorseal and re-install.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

[48fan]

Originally Posted by Mr. Dan

This always causes a "my dog's faster than your dog" debate... but I use a couple of wraps of white Teflon tape on my threads. I probably wouldn't eat off them but they are not too rough to start and to screw into place.

me 2

[Herk7769]

Originally Posted by DavidBo

It's important not to insulate the threads on the rod from the hole in the tank. The sacrificial process requires the flow of electricity between the tank liner and the anode (that's right, your water heater is a battery of sorts). Too much sealant tape can block this weak current and defeat the purpose.
I prefer to use a type of pipe dope that is sold like a thick crayon. You just scrape some all around the threads of the anode then screw it in snugly. The waxy dope prevents leaks without isolating the connection, and I never had trouble taking the rod back out later.
Works for me...just my $.02.

This is a wives tale. Teflon tape or Teflon pipe dope still allows perfect conductivity.

[DouglasReid]

[QUOTE=upflying;2203398
But I will put a dab of anti-seize on the threads the next time I remove it.
[/QUOTE]

You would do well to use Teflon Tape or RectorSeal instead of some other anti-seize or Thread Lube unless you know that other product is non toxic

Those two aer used in the Plumbing industry on potable water systems.

[bedubya]

Originally Posted by DavidBo

It's important not to insulate the threads on the rod from the hole in the tank. The sacrificial process requires the flow of electricity between the tank liner and the anode (that's right, your water heater is a battery of sorts). Too much sealant tape can block this weak current and defeat the purpose.
I prefer to use a type of pipe dope that is sold like a thick crayon. You just scrape some all around the threads of the anode then screw it in snugly. The waxy dope prevents leaks without isolating the connection, and I never had trouble taking the rod back out later.
Works for me...just my $.02.

Like Mr. Dan, I use 2 wraps of teflon tape. There will still be enough metal to metal contact.

[johnbryanpeters]

Originally Posted by Villagerjjm

I use dielectric grease that is labeled as non toxic. It does conduct electricity but it reduces the oxidation process dramatically and it is heat / water resistant. Not all are the same! Use the one that is labeled as non toxic!

The definition of dielectric is insulating.

[Mr. Dan]

Originally Posted by johnbryanpeters

The definition of dielectric is insulating.

Then why does Wal*Mart sell it to put on the base of light bulbs? https://www.walmart.com/ip/Permatex-...-5-oz/37202082


... and why did putting it in the electrical connection for my rear-view camera make the connection conduct electricity without dropping signal?

[NJKris]

adjective: dielectric
having the property of transmitting electric force without conduction; insulating.
noun
noun: dielectric; plural noun: dielectrics
a medium or substance that transmits electric force without conduction; an insulator.

I have a feeling we are about to get a physics lesson!

[Anders]

Originally Posted by dwolff

Couldn't find where to ask a new question, so here goes. How do you handle the constant rusting of the threads on the water heater, threads were rusty the even on the day of delivery on new trailer. Was hoping we would get one that didn't need an anode rod or at least to have the design updated so access to it wasn't such a pain in the butt! Seriously suburban make some changes!

We have had our 2011 Rockwood 8265 since new. I was told by an RV mechanic to put about 6-8 wraps of Teflon tape on the thread and it has worked just fine for us. Never a problem to remove the rod. I remove the rod every time we are home and drain the water heater. I then clean the thread with a wire brush and add a new layer of Teflon tape next time we are on the road.

We use our trailer a fair amount, been across Canada and back, BC, Yukon and Alaska, all the way down the west coast to the tip of Baja Mexico. Never a problem with the zink/aluminium rod. We always filter all water we take on board

Anode rods are made from aluminium, magnesium, or zinc, all metals that will “sacrifice” themselves through electrolysis and save the exposed steel water heater tank from a similar fate. At least so I was told.

[Dakota 1120]

Originally Posted by raytwntrvlr

Is there a good reason not to put the anode rod back in the WH after winterizing is complete? In the past I have screwed in a plastic 3/4 inch plug over the winter and now I can not find it. So?

TIA for your ideas and sorry for the hijack

BTW I use a 3/4" tap to remove sludge and rust.

Mike

I leave the anode rod out over the winter but put a wad of foam in the wh bung hole to keep any crawlie things out.

I didn't have a 3/4 tap so used a 3/4 pipe, cut 4 groves w/hack saw in the threaded end and screwed it in and out a few times to clean the threads.

I also coat the threads on bung hole with pure silicone grease .. same as used on diving equipment.

[NJKris]

I have food grade silicon grease I use on seals of my home brewing equipment. Another good idea.

[sunnyinfla]

vasiline....

[NJKris]

the big V was my original plan.

[wmtire]

Suburban suggests using mineral oil on the threads as per their instructional videos we keep in the FAQ section.

Here is a link:

https://youtu.be/CO3XnDkJ1wU

[auroraRNT]

Originally Posted by dwolff

Couldn't find where to ask a new question, so here goes. How do you handle the constant rusting of the threads on the water heater, threads were rusty the even on the day of delivery on new trailer. Was hoping we would get one that didn't need an anode rod or at least to have the design updated so access to it wasn't such a pain in the butt! Seriously suburban make some changes!

Vasoline on threads and Teflon Tape works for me.

[sparty047]

I was appalled the first time I removed the rod from my HWH. My dealer laughed and assured me there was "years" of rod left, suggested to reduce my worry factor I could buy a spare for ~$10 and keep it handy.



As mentioned in an earlier post the anode rod first dissolves at the plug end. Even the HWH in your home has a sacrificial rod......without it the electric heating element and metal holding tank would rapidly corrode and fail. When the plug end shows 2-3 inches of "bare" stainless steel cable it should be replaced. Though perhaps better to spend the $10 too soon than to wait too long and dissolve internal workings.


BTW - the galvanic current flows through the water - so use any non-toxic thread sealant.

Happy camping!




Peace/Out



Don't expect Suburban to come up with a HWH w/o such rod.....isn't going to happen.


Remember that rust is just iron oxide....the parts per million that could end up in your hot water flow from the tap has no health implications.

[Brother Les]

Originally Posted by DavidBo

It's important not to insulate the threads on the rod from the hole in the tank. The sacrificial process requires the flow of electricity between the tank liner and the anode (that's right, your water heater is a battery of sorts). Too much sealant tape can block this weak current and defeat the purpose.
I prefer to use a type of pipe dope that is sold like a thick crayon. You just scrape some all around the threads of the anode then screw it in snugly. The waxy dope prevents leaks without isolating the connection, and I never had trouble taking the rod back out later.
Works for me...just my $.02.

I do not think the amount of Teflon tape matters in reference to 'electric flow' between the sides of the tank and the anode rod.


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