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Old 11-11-2014, 04:52 PM   #1
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Rusty Water

Anyone have any good ideas on how to de-rust my fresh water tank?
We bought the unit used and I noticed a lot of rust discoloration in the filter bowl. I assumed the PO was maybe on a well because the drain and overflow lines on the freshwater tank are reddish on the ends. The dealer flushed and sanitized the system and I have filled and drained the fresh water a couple of times but when I winterized the other day the filter was rusty color. I will say the filter is keeping it out of the unit, we have zero rust stains inside. I would like any tips on how to "clean" it if its even possible.

Thanks in advance

PS I am on city water with no rust issues.
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Old 11-11-2014, 05:43 PM   #2
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Are you sure it's coming from the tank itself? Most FW tanks I remember seeing are made out of plastic. I haven't seen a metal tank since my folks old '76 motor home.

Instead, I'd be suspicious of things like the water pump, which would be metal that's in contact with the water.




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Old 11-11-2014, 05:59 PM   #3
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Yes tank is plastic I will check the pump but dealer replace it during our PDI. I think the tank is coated and was looking for suggestions or products to clean it.
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Old 11-11-2014, 06:12 PM   #4
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take the filter out and try CLR I know it cleans our faucet screens. Another is Iron Out . Fill the tank up with water and the appropriate amount of one of these, let them sit a bit then run the faucet getting it into the lines and let it sit there for a bit. After they have sit over night dump the tank and refill with fresh water and flush all lines. Repeat several times to make sure all the cleaner is out of the system. I wouldn't drink water that came out of the tank for a while and I would ad some Clorox to a tank at a later date.
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Old 11-11-2014, 06:13 PM   #5
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Ah, ok, well the only thing I can think of is the bleach you would normally use to sanitize. I suppose you could try CLR, since they claim it's safe for coffeemakers it should be safe for a FW tank, but I've never tried and I don't have a bottle on hand to check.




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Old 11-11-2014, 08:36 PM   #6
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Crazy thought, but maybe someone dropped something metal in the tank? Maybe a hose end or something? Sounds crazy, but could explain why the rust keeps coming back
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Old 11-11-2014, 08:45 PM   #7
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Just a thought since you are in Indiana, Michigan water has a lot of iron in it. The farther North, the more iron. If someone filled the tank in upper MI and let it set for a long time you could get red sediment.

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Old 11-11-2014, 09:11 PM   #8
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If the PO filled from a source that had lots of iron in it, it will precipitate out over time and stick to the bottom of the tank. There are several products you can get from a hardware store to remove iron from wells, You could add some to tank allow it to slosh around during a short trip then flush
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Old 11-12-2014, 06:38 AM   #9
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Iron water will destroy your hot water heater in months by using up your anode; then attacking the iron in the tank.

Have you removed the anode from your tank and flushed it?
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Old 11-12-2014, 08:34 AM   #10
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Thanks for the suggestions guys. I assume (you all know how that is) the PO was either on a well or was on a site for a while with an iron issue. My water heater is an Atwood and doesn't have an anode, and when I have flushed it I don't see any rusty water from it or any of the fixtures inside and they where not stained or discolored when we bought it. I believe the filter is catching all of it. When I open her back up in the spring I will flush the tank with some CLR and see what happens then sanitize it. Thanks for all the suggestions
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Old 11-12-2014, 08:45 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gasman6674 View Post
Thanks for the suggestions guys. I assume (you all know how that is) the PO was either on a well or was on a site for a while with an iron issue. My water heater is an Atwood and doesn't have an anode, and when I have flushed it I don't see any rusty water from it or any of the fixtures inside and they where not stained or discolored when we bought it. I believe the filter is catching all of it. When I open her back up in the spring I will flush the tank with some CLR and see what happens then sanitize it. Thanks for all the suggestions
DO NOT try this.
CLR is poisonous and highly corrosive acid mix.

MDS attached

http://www.jelmar.com/msds/2014/CLR_SDS_520514.pdf
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Old 11-12-2014, 08:51 AM   #12
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Just a warning if you are using chlorine with water that has a high iron content. Chlorine is one of the things that is used to remove clear water iron out of water so it can be filtered. What it does is oxidize the iron making it fall out of the solution and form a sediment.
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Old 11-12-2014, 08:55 AM   #13
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Well shoot that sucks. Does anyone think acetic acid (white vinegar) would work?
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Old 11-12-2014, 09:11 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Herk7769 View Post
DO NOT try this.
CLR is poisonous and highly corrosive acid mix.

MDS attached

http://www.jelmar.com/msds/2014/CLR_SDS_520514.pdf

Thanks for clarifying Herk. My previous recommendation was based solely on them using it on coffee makers in their commercials. Guess you can't trust commercials huh?

To the OP, I recant my previous idea.



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Old 11-12-2014, 09:47 AM   #15
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Originally Posted by Kaadk View Post
Thanks for clarifying Herk. My previous recommendation was based solely on them using it on coffee makers in their commercials. Guess you can't trust commercials huh?
Here is the "Cowboy Coffee Pot" instructions: Full strength to just cover bottom of pot for 2 minutes. Brush wearing rubber gloves; then flush repeatedly with cold clean water.

For "Coffee Makers" (ONLY "add water each time type" like Mr. Coffee where you must add water every time you make coffee): Dilute 1 in 8 parts with cold water; Run ONE cycle; run a minimum of 4 cycles with cold clean water. DO NOT USE on reservoir type coffee makers that hold water permanently.

The reason is the CLR is just used to descale the heating element and needs to be washed off completely before you try and make coffee you will be drinking. With a reservoir system (like Tasimo or K-Cup makers), there will always be some CLR left in the system no matter how much you flush it out.
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