Several Black Tank Drain Plumbing Leaks

[PoppySteve]

On our 2011 Sunseeker 2860, I have started having some drain pipe leaks. One is coming from the bottom of the hose band at the top where I drew the blue line. One appears to be at the joint circled in the photo. The blue arrow shows the water trickle from the leaks.

I would like to try and repair it myself but am having trouble finding the right parts. There appears to be some type of black compound (sealent?) that is on the inside of the tank drain tube that the hose clamp is around. I don't know what that stuff is. There appears to be a "collar" that fits into the tank drain opening, then a elbow that fits into the collar and is glued. This glue joint is failing. And I am not sure where to get the elbow pipe and fittings.

If someone is familiar with this type of repair, would you please advise me on what parts to get?

Thanks for any help!

[Thomas ho]

dab some pvc / cpvc cement on the leaky spots . dry it goid. push in leaky place with a flat screw driver while wet. not hard just to push glue in crack. they sell black sealer at rv supply stores for that also. sealed a holding tank crack with it .

[PoppySteve]

Thanks, I may give that a try. Beats trying to take all that apart!. I have had good luck sealing car body seam leaks with the right product.

But if someone knows what these parts are called if I had to buy new one's that would be great.

[Thomas ho]

they are parts that are available at a mobile home supply .black pipe is standard rv/ mobile home plumbing. i live in a mobile home and have a rv. same plumbing. pvc glue .

[PoppySteve]

Has anyone used Eternabond in this area with any luck?

[Thomas ho]

pvc glue .

[nomad297]

Originally Posted by Thomas ho

dab some pvc / cpvc cement on the leaky spots . dry it goid. push in leaky place with a flat screw driver while wet. not hard just to push glue in crack. they sell black sealer at rv supply stores for that also. sealed a holding tank crack with it .

This man is working with ABS pipe and fittings. PVC and CPVC cements will not bond/weld to ABS. These cements will stick to the pipe while they are wet, but after they dry, they will peel and flake right off. He could TRY using ABS cement to wipe around the areas that are leaking, but that still isn’t a permanent repair. The only right way to do it is to replace the fittings.

Bruce

[dave961]

Water Weld Epoxy Putty worked for my leaks. Easier and cheaper than re-plumbing.

https://www.jbweld.com/product/waterweld-epoxy-putty

[Larry-NC]

Originally Posted by Thomas ho

dab some pvc / cpvc cement on the leaky spots . dry it goid. push in leaky place with a flat screw driver while wet. not hard just to push glue in crack. they sell black sealer at rv supply stores for that also. sealed a holding tank crack with it .

No, Thomas, no! That pipe is ABS, not PVC or CPVC. It is not only the wrong stuff, but it would make any other repair more difficult. You cannot use PVC/CPVC cement on ABS.

Here are the replacement parts you need.
One of these (elbow):
https://www.amazon.com/NIBCO-5807-2-...0587705&sr=8-1

One of these (valve hub):
https://www.amazon.com/Valterra-T100...0587769&sr=8-4

One of these (pipe cement):
https://www.amazon.com/Oatey-30889-M...s%2C176&sr=8-1

Where the elbow goes into the tank, you might need a short (3-4") piece of 3: ABS pipe. I can't exactly tell from the photo. You can cut it from this 1' piece:
https://www.amazon.com/DWV-Drain-Pip...s%2C158&sr=8-3

Remove the metal support bracket on the old elbow. Remove the clamp from the tank. Remove the four bolts from the valve and remove the hub and elbow assembly from the valve. Check to see whether there's a small stub of pipe in the tank-end of the elbow.

If there is, you will need to cut a piece of pipe for the new elbow.You can use any kind of saw, wood saw, hack saw, whatever. Make the assembled length the same as the existing assembly. Put some ABS cement on the pipe and elbow and slide them together. They will bond rock solid in a few seconds. You will not be able to make adjustments.

First put the new hub on the valve (make sure the flexible seal stays with the valve and doesn't go with the old hub.

ABS cement sets rock solid in only a few seconds so connecting the small end of the elbow to the new valve hub must be done carefully. Before you use cement, practice this motion without cement a couple of times. (Unlike PVC pipe, ABS pipe fittings will fit completely together dry, so the fit you get dry is the same fit you get with cement,). Then put some ABS cement on the inside of the hub and outside of the elbow and put the elbow in place on the tank AND hub in one single movement. Tighten the tank clamp and the mounting clamp and you are done. Pat yourself on the back for a professional fix.

[PoppySteve]

Yes, I would like to get it properly fixed and not patched.

There appears to be a gasket that is between the tank drain opening and the next pipe, what I am calling a collar, that is compressed with the clamp.

Any ideas about what that gasket is?

[nomad297]

Originally Posted by Larry-NC

Where the elbow goes into the tank, you might need a short (3-4") piece of 3: ABS pipe. I can't exactly tell from the photo.

That is a 3” ABS Street 90 with a 3” ABS x 3” No-Hub adapter going into the rubber coupling. No pipe is needed as the No-Hub adapter glues onto the street side of the street 90.

Bruce

[bzac1954]

Originally Posted by PoppySteve

On our 2011 Sunseeker 2860, I have started having some drain pipe leaks. One is coming from the bottom of the hose band at the top where I drew the blue line. One appears to be at the joint circled in the photo. The blue arrow shows the water trickle from the leaks.

I would like to try and repair it myself but am having trouble finding the right parts. There appears to be some type of black compound (sealent?) that is on the inside of the tank drain tube that the hose clamp is around. I don't know what that stuff is. There appears to be a "collar" that fits into the tank drain opening, then a elbow that fits into the collar and is glued. This glue joint is failing. And I am not sure where to get the elbow pipe and fittings.

If someone is familiar with this type of repair, would you please advise me on what parts to get?

Thanks for any help!

Everything Thomas ho said but make sure it is clean, clean, clean

[Larry-NC]

Originally Posted by bzac1954

Everything Thomas ho said but make sure it is clean, clean, clean

No! That hack job will fail within hours.

If you have an RV costing thousands, why would you use a bubblegum and duct-tape fix? You wouldn't do that to your car/truck.

[nomad297]

Originally Posted by Larry-NC

No! That hack job will fail within hours.

If you have an RV costing thousands, why would you use a bubblegum and duct-tape fix? You wouldn't do that to your car/truck.

Agree

Bruce

[Larry-NC]

Originally Posted by nomad297

That is a 3” ABS Street 90 with a 3” ABS x 3” No-Hub adapter going into the rubber coupling. No pipe is needed as the No-Hub adapter glues onto the street side of the street 90.

Bruce

I couldn't quite visualize that. Mostly the hubless connectors I've worked with were couplings with bands on both ends. This seems to have only one band.

Would a replacement be needed? Could you post a link?

[nomad297]

Originally Posted by Larry-NC

I couldn't quite visualize that. Mostly the hubless connectors I've worked with were couplings with bands on both ends. This seems to have only one band.

Would a replacement be needed? Could you post a link?

3”ABS No-hub adapter:



Here it is at Ferguson: https://www.ferguson.com/product/3-i...vanhm/_/R-6669

Bruce

[nomad297]

3” ABS St 90:



Also from Ferguson: https://www.ferguson.com/product/3-i...vs9m/_/R-28202

Bruce

[PoppySteve]

Lots of good information. Thanks.

I'm guessing that the 3”ABS No-hub adapter fits into the tank drain opening? And that the hose clamp seals it up? Is there some type of gasket or something that fits around the 3”ABS No-hub adapter?

In my pic on the right side there seems to be a bulge of gasket, or caulk if you will, that is being squeezed out of the joint.

[Larry-NC]

Originally Posted by nomad297

That is a 3” ABS Street 90 with a 3” ABS x 3” No-Hub adapter going into the rubber coupling. No pipe is needed as the No-Hub adapter glues onto the street side of the street 90.

Bruce

Okay, but now I have called out the wrong part at the valve end!

The valve flanges are available as either hub (big female) or spigot (small male).

What I thought I was looking at was a street ell with the spigot end at the valve and the hub end at the tank. You have explained that it is the reverse. That means I called out the wrong valve flange. It needs to be the spigot.

This is the correct flange for the assembly:
https://www.amazon.com/Valterra-T100...omotive&sr=1-1

[Mikeytheb]

Originally Posted by Thomas ho

pvc glue .

Every RV dealer should have the right glue for this job. I tried pvc glue, and special transition glue, none of it works.