Share braided hose to PEX-B repair

[bleedwater]

Many RV forums have reported water leaks where ½” ID flexible reinforced PVC kink-resistant hose (conforming to NSF/ANSI-61 and TS-25-201) was clamped to PEX-B fittings using a standard PEX clamp.

The clamp I removed from my leaking connection had these markings c NSF us 17.5 PEX OET. Those work perfectly on PEX, but they are too small to even fit onto my hot water braided hose (11/16 outside diameter). Also, the braided hose (1/2 inside diameter) is too large to attach to a PEX fitting. Yet the builder installed it there somehow.

For completeness, in my Forest River product the braided hose markings are “NSF-61 CAMCO FWH 0.5”ID 150 PSI MAX WORKING PRESSURE AT 23C (73F) & 82C (180F) IAPMO TS-25-2019 ASTM F1807 / F2098 / F2159 CSA Z240.3.2 RV 051721 10:50 MADE IN USA 13LO1”.

GOAL OF THIS THREAD: Share among owners the various ways we have successfully repaired a leak as described WITHOUT REMOVING ALL THE BRAIDED HOSE AND REPLACING IT ALL WITH PEX. Why not replace it all with PEX? Consider yourself blessed you have working access to both ends of the braided hose. Many of us will find that only one end (or heaven forbid, neither end) of the braided hose has working access sufficient for tools to reach the leaking connection.

I was shocked when I realized I could not just pick up a braided hose to PEX adapter at the hardware store. If that exists, I never found it, but maybe I am wrong. Please share what worked for you. I promised if I ever got it to work, I would share my findings, ask for feedback and seek better solutions so we can jointly share what worked and for us with others.

[bleedwater]

An image of the original water leak shows a braided hose with red braid attached to a bypass valve (Tiara ROC 14080). The hose was loose and easily turned by slight hand pressure.

[theHookers]

I used stainless screw clamps. I replaced the water filter with a pex copper T and later added an accumulator tank. I have not had a leak in the any of the pvc to pex connections once the pex clamps were replaced with the screw clamps. The clamps are visible in this post.

https://www.forestriverforums.com/fo...ml#post2822226

These are what I used for the accumulator tank project:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...e?ie=UTF8&th=1

I had picked up regular screw type stainless steel clamps at a RV store when I replaced the first few that were leaking a few years ago.

[bleedwater]

The image of the solution I used shows the red braided hose removed from the bypass valve at its PEX connector.

Firstly do not attempt this work in cold ambient temperatures. The braided hose is not so flexible when cold and moving it around could create a leak at the other end of the braided hose connection which was 100% inaccessible for tools in my situation. Had both ends been accessible I would have converted to 100% PEX. Make sure the inside of the RV is hot. So hot you feel too hot working in a T shirt. Make sure it has been that hot for maybe 4 hours before you begin. You want that Braided hose to move as it flexes rather than twist on a a remote PEX connection and spring a new leak.

I removed the braided hose PEX connector. It was already somewaht loose so not so hard to accomplish.

I cut and did several checks for shape of actual red PEX hose pointed downward using a black bend guide. Don't clamp anything of course until everything in the system aligns perfectly and meshes.

I searched for a PEX to Female threaded adapter and decided on the SharkBite 1/2" X 1/2" FNPT Female Adapter (Swivel) Part# UC532LFA

I searched for a hose clamp to Male adapter to mesh with the SharkBite Female adapter and decided to try a fitting avail from a company sourcing and shipping fittings called McMaster-Carr because they had all the specs published and the specs proved it was intended for NFS-61 drinking water applications. The fitting is part 2838N26 "Barbed Hose Fitting for Drinking Water Straight Adapter for 1/2' Hose ID x 1/2 NPT Male"

Having had poor past experiences getting male/female adapter threads to actually to mesh in a compatible manner and not leak, I lab tested this outside the RV to be sure the two adapters really interfaced in a leak free manner. I highly recommend this approach since once you clamp on a solution in tight spaces it will be very difficult remove the clamps if it leaks.
These two adapters meshed and were leak free. Even go so far as to purchase a set of adapters for lab test and a set for actual repair if you have to. If you hook stuff and find it leaks you will wish you hade tested for compatibility prior to clamping.

So line everything up and size to perfect position, recut and resize any PEX that is not perfectly aligned. Hand tighten slightly to be sure, position for final then mark everything because PEX clamper wont fit inside the tight space. You now have to pull the system out to apply the clamps.

[bleedwater]

Image of the finished repair

[MR.M]

they do make a bigger 1.2 pex clamp that fits over the braided hose it's slightly larger but for the life of me can't remember the brand got off amazon . will look back on orders and see if i can find it's been a couple yrs .

[Bob K4TAX]

My solution for PEX to Flex for all the fixtures. Easy and no leaks.

Bob

[TacomaJoe]

On the back of my water heater the connections for the bypass line leaked. I cut off the pex crimp and installed stainless screw clamps at the ends.

Looking at the line, the bypass pipe material appeared to be more clear than all the other braided lines in the trailer. It's as if they ran out of the correct stuff and picked up something from a box store to complete the job. Not quite to spec I'd say.

[bleedwater]

Originally Posted by bleedwater

Image of the finished repair

Actually the Red PEX coming off the bypass valve after I finished is at the top of the water heater. My posted photo suffered rotation garble. My bad. Just rotate your head when viewing it.

[bleedwater]

Originally Posted by bleedwater

An image of the original water leak shows a braided hose with red braid attached to a bypass valve (Tiara ROC 14080). The hose was loose and easily turned by slight hand pressure.

Actually the braided hose with red braid in the image of the original water leak is at the top of the water heater. My posted photo suffered rotation garble. My bad. Just rotate your head when viewing it. This is a 6 gallon water heater with hot connection on the upper connect and cold connection on the lower connect.

Thus the braided hose with red braid was oriented uphill with a bend in direction to mate with the PEX barb on the bypass valve. When I checked this connection, the clamp was tight on the hose, but the hose swiveled easily on the male PEX barb and leaked there.

The lower braided hose does not yet leak. It lays more or less flat on the floor and has no fight with gravity to cling to its male PEX barb. Also that cold hose line had enough length to approach its connection in line without a bend.

[bleedwater]

Originally Posted by Bob K4TAX

My solution for PEX to Flex for all the fixtures. Easy and no leaks.

Bob

Hey Bob: Good find. If anyone considers replacing an RV faucet with a residential faucet, I had a good outcome with a Pfister LF-042-LRGS and used the SharkBite 24687 which press connects to PEX, comes with a stop valve and a 30 inch braided interface that boasts of Twist "Click" Seal. I got it done, but if you have to reach into a far away hole with your arms extended straight out in order to press the SharkBite fitting into the PEX hose, it can be difficult apply the needed force. If you have a little door you are working thru, you will be bumping it a lot so just take off the door at hinge screws. You will likely strip the hinge screws out of the particle board door connection if you wrestle thru that little space for very long.

In your case and my faucet case we could both get access to PEX and worked with PEX. I think the steel braided hose is much more standard because it connects faucets, toilets etc. and there are many good options to choose from.

[bleedwater]

Originally Posted by bleedwater

Image of the finished repair

Originally Posted by bleedwater

Image of the finished repair

My adapter failed at the worm screw seen in this picture after two perfect days of hot water camper use. The worm screw clamp became loose enough to allow the red braided hose to blow off of the brass fitting in the picture.

I prayed and felt I should ask Oetiker if they could me. I asked for customer support at the phone number posted on the web for the Oetiker manufacturing plant in Marlette, MI. and left a message explaining my problem. That afternoon application expert Larry Krawczyk called me back. He needed my measurements for the hose Outside Diameter (18.02mm), hose Inside Diameter (13.75mm) and Outside Diameter of my brass hose barb fitting (13.49mm at barb maximum and 12.82mm at minimum between barbs). Those measurements came from inexpensive 6 inch caliper. Larry suggested a clamp (Oetiker 16700020 018.5-706R 10 15.3 – 18.5 Stepless Ear Clamp). I got some clamps, bought a spare brass fitting (Straight Adapter for 1/2" Hose ID x 1/2 NPT Male) and did some practice clamping on a scrap portion of the hose. Perfect!

The hose is still slightly larger than the brass hose barb. DO NOT put teflon tape on the hose barbs attempting to make the hose barb seem snug inside the hose. The Oetiker clamp will close a small gap just fine.

Where to place the Oetiker clamps? I decided to use two clamps (with the ears in opposite directions) not just one clamp. Put both hose clamps on the hose loose. Stick the brass hose barb inside the hose. Hose OD is 18mm and Oetiker clamp is 18.5mm so clamps go onto the hose easily. Next use the clamp tool to just barely pinch the clamp enough that you can still position the clamp but it stays where you position it (trying to get 18.5mm down to 18mm so it slides less freely). See if the clamp will quit sliding around before you even hear a click from the tool. I found if I removed the clamp tool as soon as I heard the first audible click, it was still fine. The tool has a paw you can disengage to remove the tool if you get a click. Ok position the clamp far enough from the raised brass six sided wrench grab that your clamp tool will NOT hit the wrench grab when you apply pressure (I moved back 3/16" by pressing and then removing a 3/16" allen wrench between the wrench grab and the Oetiker clamp to do final positioning). Once positioned, clamp the Oetiker clamp nearest the wrench grab. Then I positioned the remaining Oetiker clamp right next to the first one and tighten.

This description may seem too careful, but if you practice it is very simple. However if you mess up those clamps can be hard to get off, you might have to cut off the brass fitting by cutting the hose and then the hose gets shorter. So be careful. Take your time. Unlike a screw-on hose clamp which you could tighten as the last step, here you clamp the brass fitting to the hose first. After that you hand tighten the female fitting (with teflon tape on the brass fitting threads) as the last step. You will need to think ahead for a way to hold the brass fitting firm when while you hand tighten the female fitting with your fingers.

This was tested and is leak free with hot water. The hose will not blow off of the brass hose barb fitting.