Sheepish winterizing question

[BandJCarm]

18 months and this is my first attempt at winterizing. I've tackled big things on this unit, but somehow winterizing gives me the bejeebers. I don't know why.

Here is my silly question.

I got a 'plug' to attach to the incoming water line and to my air compressor. Actually two questions. The plug is just a plug........if I stick it on the compressor hose, and turn compressor on, pressure will build but there's no 'trigger' to shoot air upon demand. I am going to Lowe's and see if I can find a piece with a trigger to stick between the compressor hose and the plug connected to trailer. But surely I can.

The real question...........is........when I shoot air into the system, do I open EVERY faucet, leave all low point drains open? Seems they'd all have to be open to get water out of all of them. Yet, seems I read that someone said do them one at a time.

So, as I shoot air, which water faucets are open?

OK, a third question........sorry. The one thing that I am having trouble grasping, and giving me pause, is turning on the pump with the hose stuck in the antifreeze bottle. Bottle and hose is outside, pump is inside. I can't see what it's doing. What if the antifreeze runs out?

Sorry to be a dufus on this. I've spent a year getting things on this camper fixed and it's all great now. I don't want busted pipes. I have res. refrig., washer, icemaker, etc. Lots to go wrong. I only have 9 weeks to worry about it, I'm headed south 12/30........but dewinterizing is not a worry, just turn water on.

Thanks for help. Laughing at me is ok.

[Iwritecode]

Originally Posted by BandJCarm

18 months and this is my first attempt at winterizing. I've tackled big things on this unit, but somehow winterizing gives me the bejeebers. I don't know why.

Here is my silly question.

I got a 'plug' to attach to the incoming water line and to my air compressor. Actually two questions. The plug is just a plug........if I stick it on the compressor hose, and turn compressor on, pressure will build but there's no 'trigger' to shoot air upon demand. I am going to Lowe's and see if I can find a piece with a trigger to stick between the compressor hose and the plug connected to trailer. But surely I can.

If you have a quick-connect on your air compressor, get yourself one of these:



I picked one up and used it for the first time this year and it worked beautifully.

Originally Posted by BandJCarm

The real question...........is........when I shoot air into the system, do I open EVERY faucet, leave all low point drains open? Seems they'd all have to be open to get water out of all of them. Yet, seems I read that someone said do them one at a time.

So, as I shoot air, which water faucets are open?

When I did it I opened the low point drains, let all the water drain out, then put the caps back on. Then I hooked up the compressor and went through each faucet one by one. You should get a little bit of water out of each one.

Originally Posted by BandJCarm

OK, a third question........sorry. The one thing that I am having trouble grasping, and giving me pause, is turning on the pump with the hose stuck in the antifreeze bottle. Bottle and hose is outside, pump is inside. I can't see what it's doing. What if the antifreeze runs out?

I just get a clean bucket, dump a few gallons of AF into it and put the hose into the bucket. You are less likely to run out that way. Even if you have a little left over after you've gone through all the faucets, you can either dump it into the toilet(s) or pour it back into one of the jugs.

[polishdon]

Like Iwritecode said, get that blow out plug that connects to your compressor quick connect. After I drain the low point drains, I set my compressor working pressure to around 40 psi, attach it to that blow out plug, go in and open all the faucets one by one.

Most winterizing hoses are right near the pump, I added mine myself as my unit didn't come with one. I turn off the line coming from the FW tank, open the valve to my clear line and put the clear line in the gallon of AF. All inside the camper so I can see what's going on.

[BandJCarm]

Originally Posted by Iwritecode

If you have a quick-connect on your air compressor, get yourself one of these:



I picked one up and used it for the first time this year and it worked beautifully.

That's what I have. But plugging it to the compressor hose via quick connect results in constant air going through line. No 'trigger' to shoot air in. What do you do, turn compressor on and off?

When I did it I opened the low point drains, let all the water drain out, then put the caps back on. Then I hooked up the compressor and went through each faucet one by one. You should get a little bit of water out of each one.

So, don't open them all at once, then?

I just get a clean bucket, dump a few gallons of AF into it and put the hose into the bucket. You are less likely to run out that way. Even if you have a little left over after you've gone through all the faucets, you can either dump it into the toilet(s) or pour it back into one of the jugs.
Having too much wasn't a concern really. It was what happens if pump is on and it runs out.

see above.

[rattleNsmoke]

I do like those industrial ball valves off the water pump. Beats the hell outa the cheap plastic ones found all too often by the manufacturer.

[Iwritecode]

Originally Posted by BandJCarm

That's what I have. But plugging it to the compressor hose via quick connect results in constant air going through line. No 'trigger' to shoot air in. What do you do, turn compressor on and off?

I just set it at around 30 - 40 psi and leave it on the whole time.

Originally Posted by BandJCarm

So, don't open them all at once, then?

Nope. Go to each one individually. Open hot side for a few seconds, then close it. Open cold side for a few seconds, then close it. Repeat as necessary. Then move to the next faucet.

Originally Posted by BandJCarm

Having too much wasn't a concern really. It was what happens if pump is on and it runs out.

That's why I use the bucket. It's unlikely that you'll go through all the AF in the bucket before you've gone through each faucet. At least I never have.

[BandJCarm]

Originally Posted by Iwritecode

I just set it at around 30 - 40 psi and leave it on the whole time.



Nope. Go to each one individually. Open hot side for a few seconds, then close it. Open cold side for a few seconds, then close it. Repeat as necessary. Then move to the next faucet.



That's why I use the bucket. It's unlikely that you'll go through all the AF in the bucket before you've gone through each faucet. At least I never have.

Got it. Seems simple when you type it out. You have to type real slowly for me.

[CHICKDOE]

they also make a plug that screws into the water hose input and has a tire valve stem on the other side. I have one and I can screw the compressor tire hose end onto it. even if you only use a gallon jug of antifreeze it will stop being pumped when it runs out. if you are at a faucet and trying to get antifreeze out of and the jug runs out you will know. go out and put the hose into another jug and continue.

[BandJCarm]

Originally Posted by CHICKDOE

they also make a plug that screws into the water hose input and has a tire valve stem on the other side. I have one and I can screw the compressor tire hose end onto it. even if you only use a gallon jug of antifreeze it will stop being pumped when it runs out. if you are at a faucet and trying to get antifreeze out of and the jug runs out you will know. go out and put the hose into another jug and continue.

Thank you.

[ependydad]

Can you have a helper? My wife and I always winterized together.

[5picker]

Just think of your air compressor in the same light as your city water supply hose.
Only difference is air vs water.
No need to 'trigger' air in, just hook up the compressor and let it build pressure to about 40 psi. Make sure you have a regulator on your air compressor to not allow more than 40 psi (give or take-some use 50) into the plumbing system.

Once you've reached the pre set 40 psi in the plumbing system, start opening the low points/showers/faucets/toilet one at a time to evacuate any water using the compressed air that is now in the system. Depending on your compressor recovery rate and/or the tank size on your compressor, you may have to allow a little time for the compressor to 'catch up.'

[BandJCarm]

Originally Posted by 5picker

Just think of your air compressor in the same light as your city water supply hose.
Only difference is air vs water.
No need to 'trigger' air in, just hook up the compressor and let it build pressure to about 40 psi. Make sure you have a regulator on your air compressor to not allow more than 40 psi (give or take-some use 50) into the plumbing system.

Once you've reached the pre set 40 psi in the plumbing system, start opening the low points/showers/faucets/toilet one at a time to evacuate any water using the compressed air that is now in the system. Depending on your compressor recovery rate and/or the tank size on your compressor, you may have to allow a little time for the compressor to 'catch up.'

Very good.

I rode the short bus. I appreciate this.......really! It is starting to make sense.

I have the anode rod out, the inside faucets all open, and the low water drain plugs out. I'll give it some time, put it all back together, and start in.

Thanks, guys.

[5picker]

Originally Posted by BandJCarm

Very good.

I rode the short bus. I appreciate this.......really! It is starting to make sense.

I have the anode rod out, the inside faucets all open, and the low water drain plugs out. I'll give it some time, put it all back together, and start in.

Thanks, guys.

... and the water heater in bypass?

[BandJCarm]

Originally Posted by 5picker

... and the water heater in bypass?

No, not yet. Not ready to put antifreeze in yet. I will.

I will let it drain best it can with faucets open. For a while.

Then I'll put drain plugs back in, plug anode rod hole, shut faucets, change valves to bypass, and blow out lines.

Then I'll do the antifreeze via pump.

Right????

[5picker]

Everyone has their own idea about when to actually close/open the bypass valves on the WH.

I'm in the camp that I believe the crud in the bottom of the water heater can be sucked/siphoned into the plumbing when opening the low point drains where it can get trapped in the plumbing so I ALWAYS bypass the WH as my FIRST step in winterizing.

Then, any crud in the WH can only escape from the drain/anode port. I then have a flush tool that I can clean the WH and not worry about anything getting flushed back into the plumbing system because the lines are already closed off at that point.

[ependydad]

Originally Posted by 5picker

Everyone has their own idea about when to actually close/open the bypass valves on the WH.

I'm in the camp that I believe the crud in the bottom of the water heater can be sucked/siphoned into the plumbing when opening the low point drains where it can get trapped in the plumbing so I ALWAYS bypass the WH as my FIRST step in winterizing.

Then, any crud in the WH can only escape from the drain/anode port. I then have a flush tool that I can clean the WH and not worry about anything getting flushed back into the plumbing system because the lines are already closed off at that point.

Same here.

[BandJCarm]

Originally Posted by Iwritecode

When I did it I opened the low point drains, let all the water drain out, then put the caps back on. Then I hooked up the compressor and went through each faucet one by one. You should get a little bit of water out of each one.

OK, about to get started. All set.........but, why put the low point drain plugs back on? Shouldn't I be blowing water out of those lines, should any be in there, also??????????????

[marinerjoe]

Originally Posted by BandJCarm

OK, about to get started. All set.........but, why put the low point drain plugs back on? Shouldn't I be blowing water out of those lines, should any be in there, also??????????????

Because you want to blow the water out your faucets and shower outlets. All the air will go out the low point drain. Put the plugs in, blow the water out, and then you can open those plugs to get the last bit out. I've found it's best to have only one outlet open at a time to maximize air flow out.

[BandJCarm]

OK thanks.

Whew. So simple.......and yet...........my friends say "Boy, you could screw up an anvil"...........

[ependydad]

Originally Posted by BandJCarm

OK thanks.

Whew. So simple.......and yet...........my friends say "Boy, you could screw up an anvil"...........

I'm so thankful to read of someone else having mental blocks on a fairly simple activity.

Things get described here and I feel well prepared to go do them and then end up standing beside my rig confused.

So yeah- thanks for being like me!