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Old 10-15-2017, 01:10 PM   #1
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Shower/Tub drain replacement help

Hey there. I have a 2005 Surveyor SV234. I had a leak somewhere under the drain or the drain itself. I took the p-trap out and drain out. P-trap and both the nuts are not cracked. Taking the drain out I broke it. Ordered a JR Products #95095.

The question is here. Am I suppose to use Plumbers Putty on the drain (top side of tub around opening)? All Plumbers Putty I have found says not to use on plastic, which this drain is. The drain that I took out looked like it had a white colored putty but very little around the drain opening in tub, just around the top of the old drain below the tub. I couple youtube videos showed Plumbers Putty but both of the vids the person used a stainless drain.

Secondary question is how tight to I tighten the locknut for the drain and the two nuts that are on the P-trap?

Thanks for the help!!
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Old 10-15-2017, 01:45 PM   #2
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Silicon on the plastic drain part between strainer and tub.
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Old 10-15-2017, 01:49 PM   #3
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Wont the silicone crack due to the flexing of the tub? I was thinking on throwing two 4x4's down there to prevent that flex. Id say the tub by the drain moves damn near 1/2" when standing on/near drain.
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Old 10-15-2017, 01:53 PM   #4
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Once cured it should not. You can foam under it or boards work too.
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Old 10-15-2017, 02:00 PM   #5
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So use silicone under the lip of the drain that rests on top of the tub and thats it? Do I need any silicone on the bottom side by the locknut?

Is there any reason I cant use the Plumbers Putty? Do you know what was used at the factory? I know it wasnt silicone because the stuff that is around the old drain seems to be a type of putty, still soft after 12yrs.
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Old 10-15-2017, 03:16 PM   #6
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Putty will soften the plastic, silicon at the top interface of the drain and tub is all you need. The factory stuff is a putty tape they use on everything it seems. I remove all putty from plastic plumbing. As a plumber for 30 plus years, I have replaced lots of leaking or broken plastic tub / shower drains do to the putty weakening the plastic and washing out.
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Old 10-15-2017, 03:28 PM   #7
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Dale, that advice works for me! Thanks! Its a pain in the butt working on it because I cant see what Im doing. Any silicone you recommend over the others? Should I put a bead around the top of the lip of the drain and the tub once it is in place and tightened with locknut?

One positive thing of this leak has been I found a huge storage area under the bed with 2 4ft bins that slide out I was not aware was there until I took the plywood for the bed up lol. Wife was happy!

Do you know why there is so much flex (tub flex) around the drain on these campers?
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Old 10-15-2017, 03:44 PM   #8
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Put a bead on the drain and drop it thru the hole, add rubber washer, friction washer, and nut to bottom and tighten. Spray some Windex around the drain and tub then use clean dry paper towels to clean up.windex will keep the silicon from sticking to the plastic during clean up. There is flex as the builders are to cheap to use mud, or foam to make a platform to support the base.
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Old 10-15-2017, 03:54 PM   #9
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Ok got it. The drain I bought (go to amazon and lookup JR Products 95095) only comes with a foam gasket which Im assuming goes on 1st under tub then lock nut. Should I add a rubber one or friction one?

Lastly, for the lock nut and the two nuts on the P trap, should I make them as tight as I can with my hand? Not sure how tight to make them and dont want them to split being plastic.
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Old 10-15-2017, 04:20 PM   #10
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Parts they include should be fine. On the nuts, hand tight, then 1/2 to 1 turn should be good.
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Old 10-16-2017, 01:52 PM   #11
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I contacted a few rv dealers by me. They all said if I used silicone that I would never be able to take it apart if needed. They all recommended I use Butyl Tape, as what they use for this type of fixes. Thought on that?
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Old 10-16-2017, 01:58 PM   #12
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If you ever need to take it apart, it will be broken already. The tape is oil based and that is the problem with putty, it will soften and break down the plastic, (Also oil based) and cause the seal to fail. But as we all know, the folks that build and warranty these thing know 1000% how and what to do and use. Otherwise we would see leaks, loose parts, China tires, improperly wired entertainment centers, so on and so forth. Get my drift? Hehe.
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Old 10-16-2017, 02:16 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Adam8622 View Post
Wont the silicone crack due to the flexing of the tub? I was thinking on throwing two 4x4's down there to prevent that flex. Id say the tub by the drain moves damn near 1/2" when standing on/near drain.
There is a silicone type of caulk called "Lexel" comes in clear, white and black. It cures and stays flexible. It also sticks better than regular clear caulk and drys clear, not opaque.

It is not cheap at $8 a tube but in my opinion it is worth it. I also use it around my door and windows. It is also printable a couple hours after putting it on. GREAT STUFF!
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