Suburban hot water tank

[rndsommer4]

Last fall when winterizing the anode rod/plug was very hard to get out. It was not in very far but seemed to be cross threaded. It was the first season of use. The rod itself looked pretty good and could be reused. This spring I purchased 2 new anode rods and I can't even get them started. The old rod will only make 1 turn so I'm 100% that the heater needs to be re-threaded. I've never done this before but I'm pretty handy with most things. Does anyone know the tool and size die or thread chaser I would need to clean up the threads? Hope I'm explaining this correctly.

[Flybob]

Note the anode rod is a graduated thread and will not fully thread into the WH. You can try chasing the threads and then wrap the anode rod with teflon tape.

[Gumpster808]

I know mine feels the same way initially.

Hard to get it started level in the space but a little wiggling around gets it started correctly.

Threads may just need cleaned as well since they do get rust in them a bit. I’d try with wire brush that fits and see if you can get it that way.

[fonzie]

3/4 inch pipe thread

http://www.forestriverforums.com/for...in-103336.html

[rndsommer4]

I wire brushed the threads, flushed it out. Definately was cross threaded. The tips of my fingers look like I had them on a meat slicer. I'm going to have to go the thread chaser route to clean everything up inside. The tool I need is a 3/4 inch thread chaser???

[TimVWulp]

Originally Posted by rndsommer4

I wire brushed the threads, flushed it out. Definately was cross threaded. The tips of my fingers look like I had them on a meat slicer. I'm going to have to go the thread chaser route to clean everything up inside. The tool I need is a 3/4 inch thread chaser???

You will need to borrow, rent, or buy a 3/4" pipe tap to rethread it. Or call suburban water heater up and explain what is going on and see if they will warranty the unit. look under the library link at the top of this page for information on repairs to warrentys

Hope this helps Tim

[BobHanke]

Clean threads as much as possible. Apply a little plumber's grease. Wrap Teflon on rod and leave it in place though not as tight during storage.

[Larry-NC]

Originally Posted by TimVWulp

You will need to borrow, rent, or buy a 3/4" pipe tap to rethread it. Or call suburban water heater up and explain what is going on and see if they will warranty the unit. look under the library link at the top of this page for information on repairs to warrentys

Hope this helps Tim

Just to be absolutely clear:

• The size is 3/4" Iron Pipe (IP) thread. It is not 3/4" USS or National Coarse (NC) or SAE or National Fine (NF) or British Standard (BSP).
• The thread is tapered (cone shaped, larger at the outside end, smaller at the inside end). Do NOT run the tap all the way through--you will make the hole too big. Only the tapered part of the tap should go in the hole.

Here is a suitable tap.

You should use lubricant while chasing the threads. Given the proximity to potable water, use cooking oil or salad oil as the lubricant. Once the tap begins to thread in, turn it 1/2 turn, then back up 1/4, advance 1/2, back up 1/4. This keeps the shavings short so they don't jam in the tap flutes.

After threading, clean up with a telescoping magnet.

As suggested, wrap the threads of the new rod with teflon tape and be careful inserting it. The weight of the anode will cause it to drop down and crossthread again. I use a deep-well (extended) socket, being careful to hold the rod level by pushing down on the socket. It doesn't have to be he-man tight. Get it snug and just go a little more. (The danger with tapered threads is that you can crack the female part (tank in this case) by tightening the male part too tight.

Larry