I have a 2002 Wildcat with a Suburban SW6DE water heater. I'm having several problems with the heater. I purchased the camper about 6 months ago. The first time I took it out in November, the heater worked perfectly on electric.
Problem 1 - I took it out 2 weeks ago and the water would only get slightly warm for a few seconds then go back cold. I've checked the bypass valve and even replaced it with no help. Running on electric it would only get luke-warm. On gas, it would get a bit warmer but not hot.
Problem 2 - the Pressure Relief (Pop-off) valve at the top of the tank starts leaking when the water starts getting around 95 degrees. I bought a new valve but can't seem to get the old one out.
Problem 3 - when I removed the anode rod to drain the tank - it was in perfect condition except that it was covered in what looked like calcium deposits and quite a bit of calcium came out of the heater when i drained it.
Any help would be appreciated. I'm about ready to just buy a new one and replace this one altogether.
I have a 2002 Wildcat with a Suburban SW6DE water heater. I'm having several problems with the heater. I purchased the camper about 6 months ago. The first time I took it out in November, the heater worked perfectly on electric.
Problem 1 - I took it out 2 weeks ago and the water would only get slightly warm for a few seconds then go back cold. I've checked the bypass valve and even replaced it with no help. Running on electric it would only get luke-warm. On gas, it would get a bit warmer but not hot.
Problem 2 - the Pressure Relief (Pop-off) valve at the top of the tank starts leaking when the water starts getting around 95 degrees. I bought a new valve but can't seem to get the old one out.
Problem 3 - when I removed the anode rod to drain the tank - it was in perfect condition except that it was covered in what looked like calcium deposits and quite a bit of calcium came out of the heater when i drained it.
Any help would be appreciated. I'm about ready to just buy a new one and replace this one altogether.
Problem 1 sounds like a bypass valve being set incorrectly. That has been the subject of many forum post here lately. People thought their bypass valves were set correct when in fact they weren't.
If you have three valves behind your water heater, make sure the inlet(cold water) valve is open, the outlet (hot water) valve is open, and the bypass (which ties the cold water into the hot water line) is closed. The valves should be open when the T in handle is turned the same way as the pipe....and closed when the handle is turned across the pipe. Since the bypass water line runs in a different direction than the hot/cold water lines, it's easy to confuse the position of the valve handle being set incorrect.
Check out this thread/post for the proper valves position. It's possible you may only have one or two valves at all behind your water heater.....or three.
Problem 3 doesn't sound like a problem but normal usage. The sacrificial anode rod does leave pieces of itself inside the water heater as it deteriorates, which is dirty white/grey chunks. It's a good idea, when checking/replacing/removing anode rods, to get a flush wand and flush out the water heater with it while the rod is out. It's possible that this anode rod has been replaced before by another owner and he didn't flush it out, and you are getting pieces/chunks from previous anode rods still inside the heater.
WARNING: If removing the anode rod (which drains the water heater tank), make absolutely SURE you don't have the water heaters electric heating element switch turned on. It must be OFF if you have shore power hooked up with no water in the tank. Check for a little hidden black switch on the front of your water heater.
Problem 1) Classic bypass valve open. Make sure the "middle" valve is closed and the upper and lower valves are open.
Problem 2) Open the valve completely and let the water flush out whatever is keeping it from closing. If that still does not fix it; then use an appropriately sized pipe wrench to remove it.
Problem 3) Sounds like a normal use anode. Here is some guidance on anodes. The anode on the red tool box is perfectly OK and can be reused.
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Lou & Freya the wonder dog
2008 GMC Sierra 3000HD Allison Duramax
2019 Flagstaff 8529FL
I have a single bypass valve which I checked and even removed. I am positive that it is in the correct position. I purchased a new valve just in case it was bad. I removed the valve and verified that it was in the correct position and functioning properly before reinstalling it.
With the heater installed in the camper, there's no way to get a pipe wrench on the P/T valve. If its leaking at 95 degrees, I really feel like the valve might be bad. Maybe a service center can get it replaced for me. I hate to spend a lot of money fixing this water heater when i can replace it for about $350.
I have a single bypass valve which I checked and even removed. I am positive that it is in the correct position. I purchased a new valve just in case it was bad. I removed the valve and verified that it was in the correct position and functioning properly before reinstalling it.
With the heater installed in the camper, there's no way to get a pipe wrench on the P/T valve. If its leaking at 95 degrees, I really feel like the valve might be bad. Maybe a service center can get it replaced for me. I hate to spend a lot of money fixing this water heater when i can replace it for about $350.
OK, is there any way to maybe get a pic of the bypass valve behind your water heater? If only one valve, it should be on your cold water line. Probably look like below. Sometimes there is a second one on your hot water side, but the valve is turned towards the heater, and you can miss seeing it.
I am curious as to how your valve is plumbed, and would like to see the actual cold water to hot water bypass line....... and where your internal plumbed check valve is (which you should have).
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2011 Flagstaff 831 RLBSS
A 72 hour hold in a psych unit is beginning to intrigue me as a potential vacation opportunity.
he is talking about getting the pressure valve out of the water heater it is on the outside on top of the tank may have to put a wrench on it then a bar to brake it loose
The Hot Water Heater Bypass Kits that use only a single three way valve also must use a check valve on the hot water output.
RodeoGeorge
Herk, you beat me to it. Posted while I was posting.
LOL
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2013 Rockwood 8289WS
Mods: Central Vac, PI EMS-HW50C, 2025RV, (2) SCS225 Trojans, PD9260, Awning Remotes & LED Lights, Eliminators, External Water Filter,, Intellijacks
2008 RAM 3500 Cab&Chassis Hauler Bed, B&W Companion Hitch
All My Modifications are at this link: https://www.forestriverforums.com/for...ons-36212.html
I was able to purge the air from the tank by opening a faucet. the check valve at least let air out...
I had to remove the supply lines from the water inlet/outlet of the heater to get the bypass valve apart. When I reassembled everything, the rubber o-ring had fallen out and water sprayed out all over me so i assume the check-valve isn't in the water lines but inside the tank?
The check valve we are referring to is also called a back-flow preventer. With a one valve bypass valve, you have to have a way to prevent the cold water that would be tied into your hot water line, from backflowing into the water heater from the top of the water heater (hot water outlet),
This internal backflow preventer/check valve only allows water to flow one way, which is from the hot water outlet, and it should be where Herk said it was.
Trying to get my mind set straight on this, I would think if the backflow preventer was stuck closed, he shouldn't be getting ANY hot water, but I am still visualizing all of it so don't take that as gospel.
Man, a pic would help so much
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2011 Flagstaff 831 RLBSS
A 72 hour hold in a psych unit is beginning to intrigue me as a potential vacation opportunity.
The check valve we are referring to is also called a back-flow preventer. With a one valve bypass valve, you have to have a way to prevent the cold water that would be tied into your hot water line, from backflowing into the water heater from the top of the water heater (hot water outlet),
This internal backflow preventer/check valve only allows water to flow one way, which is from the hot water outlet, and it should be where Herk said it was.
Trying to get my mind set straight on this, I would think if the backflow preventer was stuck closed, he shouldn't be getting ANY hot water, but I am still visualizing all of it so don't take that as gospel.
Like I said, just trying to figure it out. The fact he is getting hot water means the water heater works and his problem is plumbing.
Also remember that it can also be one of his shower hand wands are closed and the two hand valves could be open. (inside or outside)
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Lou & Freya the wonder dog
2008 GMC Sierra 3000HD Allison Duramax
2019 Flagstaff 8529FL
Like I said, just trying to figure it out. The fact he is getting hot water means the water heater works and his problem is plumbing.
Also remember that it can also be one of his shower hand wands are closed and the two hand valves could be open. (inside or outside)
As I was rereading the opening post, he stated he was getting luke-warm water and not much better on propane, while also stating his pressure valve kept opening up.
Lou, Do you think that the pressure valve opening too soon,, is keeping the water from heating up enough....or could it be thermostats?
I agree that is sure sounds like cold water mixing with hot water somehow.
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2011 Flagstaff 831 RLBSS
A 72 hour hold in a psych unit is beginning to intrigue me as a potential vacation opportunity.
As I was rereading the opening post, he stated he was getting luke-warm water and not much better on propane, while also stating his pressure valve kept opening up.
Lou, Do you think that the pressure valve opening too soon,, is keeping the water from heating up enough....or could it be thermostats?
I agree that is sure sounds like cold water mixing with hot water somehow.
The more I think about his problem the more I think he needs to check his outside shower wand.
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Lou & Freya the wonder dog
2008 GMC Sierra 3000HD Allison Duramax
2019 Flagstaff 8529FL
Outside shower wand is turned off.. When i tried to turn them on - it leaked where the hose attaches to the faucet so I turned them off. Inside shower/tub faucet is turned off.
I really appreciate all of the help and suggestions.
I've made an appointment with the local dealer - they are going to replace the P/T valve and they seem to think that the 120V thermostat switch may be having issues causing it to not heat up. They are going to diagnose it and replace the thermostat switch if needed. I guess buying an 11 year old RV is bound to come with a few problems.
I've made an appointment with the local dealer - they are going to replace the P/T valve and they seem to think that the 120V thermostat switch may be having issues causing it to not heat up. They are going to diagnose it and replace the thermostat switch if needed. I guess buying an 11 year old RV is bound to come with a few problems.
Ok, please keep us informed how it all goes and if it solves the problems..........so we'll know for future references.
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2011 Flagstaff 831 RLBSS
A 72 hour hold in a psych unit is beginning to intrigue me as a potential vacation opportunity.
I love this forum, having the much knowledge at your fingertips is awesome. First time out and no one told me about the 3rd valve and I really couldn't see it, had to reach back and feel, now wife can go take a shower.
Problems Solved... Lou & Linda... you hit the nail on the head. When I went through and made a double check of everything - I found that the external shower had both hot and cold valves open. Once I closed them - I have hot water again! I took the RV to the dealer and they changed the P/T valve in about 15 minutes. Took it to the lake this past weekend and everything worked great!