Suburban Water Heater

[donanddona]

Full Timer for 5 years now I woke up this morning (and a good morning to you to) to find the red light on for the water heater (standard thing from time to time), so I shut it off. Shifted bottles and then removed the empty (normal thing). Then things started to get un-normal. When I removed the "empty" it still had 1/3 of propane in it. I turned the rocker back on for the water heater and the igniter cycled 5sec for the normal three times and then faulted again (red light is on). After waiting for the normal 5 minutes between attempts and faulting each time I removed the cover and began taking pictures in hopes of repairing as I go. The burners on the stove are working fine and I am plugged into a good shore power connection. Besides the normal wear and tear it looked the same. I removed the limit switch cover and inspected the links and they seam fine, put it back together and attempted ignition. It fired (why I don't know) and then faulted. Three attempts yielded the same results. Do you have a Idea yet? Does anyone have directions to read voltage at the fuel control valve? The water heater has worked fine everyday for five years. 2011 8528BHSS Flagstaff 5r.

[Happy Vibe]

The fact you said it fired up and then shut down, I would look at the thermal couple. If the unit is not detecting the flame it will shut down.

[OldCoot]

Or it got bumped out of position, there are 3 dimensions that must be "right on" for it to work properly. If any one of the 3 are off, it will not work. Your instruction manual has these dimensions.

[donanddona]

Will confirm the alignment. Additionally I took reading on the fuel control valve. It has voltage to both sides (#1 & #4 leads) of the fuel control. The other two (#2 & 3#) only look to provide ground points. We spent winter camp in Texas so I'm thinking maybe the Texas propane got some sand/dirt/salt in it and is not completely clear? It has worked for five years almost 365 days a year.

[donanddona]

Well Its Working again. I forgot to say I washed the RV the day before this problem. Not sure if water played any part in it. After disassembly, checking electrical connections, and reassembly it has worked all night. Thanks to all my Forum friends it has helped.

[DaveSchwartz]

Looks like a fair bit of corrosion in there and that means conductive salts. You probably got a bit of water on the thermocouple connections and the buildup of dust and dirt can make that a bit conductive. Thermocouples produce very low voltage (in the millivolts) and anything that drains that to ground will keep the control from sensing flame.

I had this happen once on the first startup after winter on about a 110% humid (foggy) day. I pulled all the connections one at a time and sprayed them down with contact cleaner (with silicone protectant) and didn't have the problem again. Now that you've had it happen once you should probably do this or its going to become more and more likely to happen under rain or high humidity.

[donanddona]

Sounds good. We did spend winter camp on the gulf of Mexico so it could very well be the time to scrub clean and paint inside that area...

[donanddona]

Originally Posted by OldCoot

Or it got bumped out of position, there are 3 dimensions that must be "right on" for it to work properly. If any one of the 3 are off, it will not work. Your instruction manual has these dimensions.

Ok after tinkering on it, it worked for a week. Same thing again today. I have propane. Igniter clicking, three cycles until lockout, and have power to the valve. I read the manual three times, searched the FR forum internet but I could not find the three dimensions to check. Do you have a link?

[donanddona]

I did read there was a screw that could be adjusted?

[arpipeliner]

Probably a one of the coils on the gas valve. I have replaced them on both of my campers. I bought the whole valve. Was told just changing a coil wasn't safe.


Sent from my iPhone using Forest River Forums

[OldCoot]

Originally Posted by donanddona

Ok after tinkering on it, it worked for a week. Same thing again today. I have propane. Igniter clicking, three cycles until lockout, and have power to the valve. I read the manual three times, searched the FR forum internet but I could not find the three dimensions to check. Do you have a link?

Page 12 of the attached.

[donanddona]

Thanks to all for the info. Just got back from a sweet campground Citizens Lake in Monmouth, IL. Our first club outing. Anyway as I pondered what I could do to the water heater I noticed the relief pop-it valve was dripping ever so slowly and that it looked as if it puddled at the propane orifice. I dried it off and blew it out, but to no avail. The water heater failed to fire. After setting around with our club friends I thought about a lawnmower that I had as a kid and that it just would not start. I took the carb apart and found water in the fuel bowl and the gas line. That gave me the idea to remove the propane line to the orifice and try to drain it. Their wasn't any water in the gas line but hidden behind the gas line was a small rocker switch that led to finding that my water heater did in fact have an electric element. WOW saved by my own stupidity, we now have hot water for the campout! The manual shows a reset switch next to the water heater switch and not having that combined with never noticing the rocker switch at the water heater....... well after arriving home and setting up the propane side is firing.... I'm sure the gas valve will need to be replaced someday soon... Thanks OldCoot for the manual but I don't think the alignment is the issue but I'll keep the file for records.... It is hard to see the rocker switch in the first picture but is there in the second picture... I'll get her all cleaned up this week and maybe send a "cleaner pic" later... Thanks again to all my Forest River friends...