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Old 01-07-2021, 04:38 PM   #21
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Sorry. Just for clarifications, I only opened red to red for a few seconds then closed it back to wait until I am sure. The photo represents how it is now and how I found it when opened. I will touch the values again until at the campground tonight.

The hidden value is also closed and one end goes into the tank.
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Old 01-07-2021, 04:47 PM   #22
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Originally Posted by kenandterry View Post
How does one access a permanently installed panel?
Wouldn’t you have to approach it from another direction?

Just askin’.
It was a challenge and there was no other direction. I used a spatula, box knife and a filet knife to break the panel free. I honestly thought I would destroy the panel and damage the cabinet in the process. Once I got it out, I lightly sanded two edges to get just a glove fit. I centered a small pull in the panel to pull it out and spring loaded cabinet clips on the cabinet to keep it in place.

It's been several years since doing it, so I don't remember all of the specifics. What I do remember is studying all the options to gain access. My thoughts were that I would have to install bi-pass valves because the WH was inaccessible. When I made access and saw the valves in place, I was relieved.
But why install valves that the customer can't get to?

I have included a picture of the kitchen area. The hot water heater is directly under the window. When opening the sink cabinet door, the floor of the cabinet is elevated up about 6". The access panel between the underside of the cabinet floor and the lower cabinet frame.
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Old 01-07-2021, 04:48 PM   #23
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Originally Posted by jlillie View Post
Sorry. Just for clarifications, I only opened red to red for a few seconds then closed it back to wait until I am sure. The photo represents how it is now and how I found it when opened. I will touch the values again until at the campground tonight.

The hidden value is also closed and one end goes into the tank.
Rotate all 3 valves 90º from how you found them. The object is to open the blue input and red output to/from the heater and close the red to blue bypass. kenandterry is correct.
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Old 01-07-2021, 05:00 PM   #24
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Originally Posted by bubbles View Post
Rotate all 3 valves 90º from how you found them. The object is to open the blue input and red output to/from the heater and close the red to blue bypass. kenandterry is correct.
Bubbles.....

Your first suggestion to the OP was to turn both valves 90*.
You had not confirmed how many valves the OP has in his Sunseeker.
Your instructions to just turn both valves would not have remedied his trouble.

A 2 valve system works differently than a 3 valve system as outlined in my link to RV101 Water Heater bypass valves several posts below.
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Old 01-07-2021, 05:19 PM   #25
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It is 3 valve, and I thing that suggestion is correct. Basically switching each of the three valves from the winterized positions so that the lines to and from the water heater are open and that one in the middle connecting them for bypass is closed. Thanks for the help!
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Old 01-07-2021, 05:24 PM   #26
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One question: Should I switch the value positions before or after hooking up to water?
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Old 01-07-2021, 05:30 PM   #27
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Originally Posted by jlillie View Post
One question: Should I switch the value positions before or after hooking up to water?
I only ever did it without water connected, but didn't have a specific reason for doing so. I wouldn't think it matters much.
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Old 01-07-2021, 05:45 PM   #28
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Originally Posted by kenandterry View Post
Bubbles.....

Your first suggestion to the OP was to turn both valves 90*.
You had not confirmed how many valves the OP has in his Sunseeker.
Your instructions to just turn both valves would not have remedied his trouble.

A 2 valve system works differently than a 3 valve system as outlined in my link to RV101 Water Heater bypass valves several posts below.
Is this your day to scold? I just said rotate those valves shown 90º. Never said that would clear the issue.
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Old 01-07-2021, 08:05 PM   #29
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Is this your day to scold? I just said rotate those valves shown 90º. Never said that would clear the issue.

Fair enough, but you probably should mention that in your post, as in "rotate those valves shown 90 degrees, but it may not clear your issue." Then the person being addressed can judge the value of your suggestion.
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Old 01-07-2021, 08:20 PM   #30
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Originally Posted by jlillie View Post
One question: Should I switch the value positions before or after hooking up to water?

If you are first filling your plumbing system with water when summerizing, and there was antifreeze in the pipes, you should flush the cold water lines with fresh water first, then switch the water heater to normal operation position, then fill the water heater tank. If you switch the valves first, you will probably introduce some antifreeze into the water heater tank which will require a little additional flushing to clear out.

If the RV had been winterized by blowing out the lines with air, and no antifreeze used, it really doesn't matter what order you switch the bypass valves.
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Old 01-07-2021, 10:03 PM   #31
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Hi everyone, I switched the valves out of the winter mode and all is good. Hot water working great. Thanks for all your help and info. Me and the family really appreciate it.
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Old 01-08-2021, 08:52 AM   #32
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Fair enough, but you probably should mention that in your post, as in "rotate those valves shown 90 degrees, but it may not clear your issue." Then the person being addressed can judge the value of your suggestion.
See post #23.
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Old 01-08-2021, 02:13 PM   #33
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Originally Posted by jlillie View Post
I have a new sunseeker and cannot get the hot water to work, I think because there is a valve closed for winter. I know there are some threads about this, but I cannot find the valve. There is an outside cabinet for adding antifreeze and tried turning those valves but this does not help. I don't want to turn on the water heater in case it is not full. I attached photos of the outside cabinet. The guy at the dealership says the value would be in an inside cabinet, but I cannot find it. The inside of the water heater should be under the bathroom, but I don't see any access panels. Thanks for your help!
i have a 2014 sunseeker 2250 and the winter/summer valves are hidden behind a panel (4 screws) below the wardrobe...
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Old 01-12-2021, 12:54 AM   #34
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One question: Should I switch the value positions before or after hooking up to water?
I would switch them before, but probably doesn't matter. Recognize that when you have water supply connected, and turn on the HOT water tap, it will take a while before you get water out, since the tank (currently full of air) needs to fill to push the water out the hot water outlet to your taps. IF the lines have antifreeze in them, you will first see a pink solution, if they were drained, you will hear/fell air coming out of the hot water tap when it is opened.
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Old 01-12-2021, 12:06 PM   #35
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https://www.forestriverforums.com/fo...ml#post2475486


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Old 01-14-2021, 11:50 AM   #36
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Water Heater bypass diagram

This is NOT a sunseeker photo. This is a diagram of how our FR travel trailer valves are supposed to be set. I carry this diagram on my phone because we seem to refer to it every fall.

Now I'm crossing my fingers that the photo uploads.
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Old 01-14-2021, 12:01 PM   #37
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Hi everyone, I switched the valves out of the winter mode and all is good. Hot water working great. Thanks for all your help and info. Me and the family really appreciate it.
Problem SOLVED.
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