Originally Posted by nomad297
Now that I understand the whole picture, it looks to me like, that at one time, the now-leaking gray water drain used to be piped to the black tank instead of the gray tank ó some RVs are piped like this. Somebody didnít like this idea, so they rerouted the gray water drain to the gray tank and capped/plugged where it used to dump into the black tank.Bruce
Thanks for helping out. Any idea why it would previously have been piped to the black tank? What are the advantages except maybe rinsing or flushing the black tank with the disadvantage of being full quicker??
Have repaired the leak yesterday and also repaired a few small leaks in seam of roof and water piping/tubes. Replaced the house batteries with 4 Trojan 6V T105's, re-attached cabinet door, found culprit switch of (out of order) auto-levellling system,
Still on to do list:
- repair bent chassis/beams under water tank
- isolate underside of storage compartments and add double skin with alloy 1mm sheet metal. Hope also to get all storage compartments dry this way with added benefit of no freezing in there...
- get rear airco to work (no power supply to unit)
With the new Trojan battery bank my residential fridge only runs on the inverter for about 1,5 - 2 hours before generator kicks in.
Mechanic/engineer who sold me the set advised me to set AGS at 12,2V to avoid damaging the batteries as 12,10V equals a discharge of about 50%. (11,66V equals discharge of 80% and should be absolute maximum discharge)
Had battery cut out set at 12V.
Can maybe set AGS to 12V and battery cut out to 11,5V as a absolute minimum. Not sure if that would help a great deal.
Was hoping for the fridge to run on the inverter/batteries for maybe 12hours or so before generator start.
Have also set fridge and freezer to least cold setting...
How long do your batteries cope please without genny? Also only a few hours?