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Old 04-04-2012, 08:33 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by willyg113 View Post
Bad link. Willy did you get my PM on how to manage the attachments?

copy that jpg to your desktop.
Right next to the smiley face there is a paperclip
Click that and there are 5 browse buttons allowing you to attach 5 pictures (or files).

Make sure you click upload
You also need to put at least 4 characters in the body of the post to post it.
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Old 04-04-2012, 08:34 PM   #22
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the thing is...its worked fine for 6 yrs...doing the same procedure..just this year its hot out of the relief valve..lukewarm at faucet...cold if i turn by-pass on
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Old 04-04-2012, 08:42 PM   #23
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I have an idea.

I am waiting for Willy's call to help him through an upload.

If there is a single "T" valve similar to a RV anti-freeze valve at the cold water inlet and a one way check valve at the hot water output, the bypass can be accomplished with one valve.

Example: clockwise bypass; counter clockwise normal use (or vice versa).
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Old 04-04-2012, 08:49 PM   #24
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When the pointer is facing the cold water line (pointed to "you" like in the photo) the valve is in "normal"; when pointed "UP" it is supposed to be in bypass and a one way check valve in the upper hot water outlet prevents the bypassed water from entering the HW heater.
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Old 04-04-2012, 09:05 PM   #25
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Just got off the phone with Willy.
Consensus is a bad valve.
The T valve is allowing flow to both the hot water heater and the bypass tube when it is in the "Normal" position (pointed to the cold water line).
When it is in the vertical position "Bypass" it works fine to isolate the hot water heater (thus he is getting the cold water).

He is going to drain the system tomorrow and examine the valve.

If it is broken, easiest fix IMO is to put a PEX straight valve in the bypass hose. If it is leaking, maybe it can be fixed.

He will let us know how he makes out.

Just goes to show that just when you think you have it all figured out; SOMEBODY has a camper that is totally different.
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Old 04-04-2012, 09:37 PM   #26
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I had an Itasca motorhome with the same problem, turned out to be a backflow preventer valve on the hot water heater. The repairman said it was a common problem. My motorhome was about six years old when it happens.

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Old 04-05-2012, 07:09 AM   #27
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I think if replacing the valve doesn't work II will look into the backflow preventer valve on the heater.thanks
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Old 04-05-2012, 07:32 AM   #28
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Do you have an outside shower? I seem to remember that years ago this problem was attributed to having the outside shower cold faucet open but the water flow was cut off at the shower head. The fix was to make sure the shower faucets were in the off position. I could be completely wrong here since my memory isn't what it used to be.

BTW, my 2004 Wildcat only had one shutoff valve too. My 2008 Wildcat had two shutoff valves and my new 2013 Silverback seems to have more shutoff valves than Carter has little liver pills. (Oops, showing my age here)
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Old 04-05-2012, 07:53 AM   #29
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Originally Posted by willyg113 View Post
I think if replacing the valve doesn't work II will look into the backflow preventer valve on the heater.thanks
Was thinking about the check valve on the heater and I can't see how it could be "your" issue. If the valve is doing its job when properly positioned, no cold water should be bypassing it. The check valve at the top has to do with winterizing and keeping the antifreeze out of the HW tank when the valve is positioned to bypass the heater.

I think the valve (or the handle) has been misaligned inside the valve body. I think it is 90 degrees "out of phase." There should be a shaft with 3 holes in it. (picture a T on its side --| like this) When the holes are aligned --| the valve is in bypass (your handle is supposed to be toward the bypass hose). Then rotate the valve counter clockwise and the valve body should look like and the lever should point at the cold pipe:

bypass hose
cold __ hot
side | side
valve wall

Best I can do within the limits of the forum's posting software.
The hole pointing down will be blocked by the side of the valve wall and the water will flow straight through.
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Old 04-05-2012, 09:46 AM   #30
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u have a 3 way valve. i have the same thing. with the body of the valve intack, unscrew the bonnet and pull the plug out and see if u can see the problem. sure sounds like it is bad.

on industral valves, u can adjust the bonet. if it has become loose, it may be allowing flow by it. i really doubt that this valve is that way but u may try seeing if the bonnet (cap part that the (stem) handle goes thru) is loose.
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Old 04-05-2012, 11:13 AM   #31
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My drawing skills are not the best, but I think this is what is going on.
The valve handle either slipped or was forced past its stop.
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Old 04-05-2012, 11:44 AM   #32
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that's reasonable. u may be able to loosen the bonnet and rotate the handle 180 deg and correct w/o draining.

i thought i would be able to look at mine and tell u something by the position of the handle. mine is mounted facing the wh and the handle points to the supply also. ie i couldn't see anything different.

my previous statement abt trying to tighten down on the bonnet works on a tapered plug. i don't know how the plug is made on these fittings. if u can locate one, it would be a lot less work to replace rather than fitting in additional valves.

if u wind up pulling the valve, would you post a picture of the valve disassembled?
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Old 04-06-2012, 08:31 AM   #33
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Another thought, if the valve inside is 180 off, wouldn't one position give u a no flow?
I believe ur going to have to go into the valve or replace it.
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Old 04-06-2012, 08:40 AM   #34
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Another thought, if the valve inside is 180 off, wouldn't one position give u a no flow?
I believe ur going to have to go into the valve or replace it.
Jim, I talked to Willy on the phone. He has flow from the hot tap in both positions.
I am thinking it is rotated only 90 degrees past the correct spot.
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Old 04-06-2012, 09:06 AM   #35
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yeah, i'm really wrestling with that valve. if u point it in the opposite direction, the openings will be between the water heater and bypass. supply would be cut off resulting in no flow at the faucet. the other position would be supply to wh which would give a flow. i tend to believe the valve is bad regardless of tightness of bonnet or possition of plug.
the other possibility has also been stated: (oakman) there is something tied together like an external shower w/both valves open and the shutoff being at the shower head. i would make sure that those possibilities were checked before going to the valve. on my trailer, i only have two possibilities of tieing them together (that i can think of) both are showers.
if everything checks out, i would disassemble the valve and see if there is an "O" ring out of position or something.

i believe the biggest problem is the price i found on line for the valve...i think they are selling it by the oz. just looked at one...i sure those valves can't cost $36. if they do, i would replace with metal.
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Old 04-06-2012, 09:28 AM   #36
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just goes to show that just when you think you have it all figured out; somebody has a camper that is totally different.

x2 !
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Old 04-06-2012, 09:45 AM   #37
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i believe the biggest problem is the price i found on line for the valve...i think they are selling it by the oz. just looked at one...i sure those valves can't cost $36. if they do, i would replace with metal.
He could put an inline on/off valve in the bypass hose for less than 10.00
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Old 04-06-2012, 10:02 AM   #38
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Jim, I talked to Willy on the phone. He has flow from the hot tap in both positions.
I am thinking it is rotated only 90 degrees past the correct spot.
i'm still hung up on 180 deg. ur stating 90. that would go between complete bypass or tied together. that would be a possibility. would really like to see how that valve is made inside.
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Old 04-06-2012, 11:51 AM   #39
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i'm still hung up on 180 deg. ur stating 90. that would go between complete bypass or tied together. that would be a possibility. would really like to see how that valve is made inside.
Take the bypass example and rotate it 90 degrees to the right (clockwise)
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Old 04-06-2012, 12:11 PM   #40
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i was looking at that. was trying to figure if the handle would still have the same two positions or if it would point down in one position.
i would be willing to bet that 3 way can be located somewhere for a lot less than $36 also.
on replacing with 2 valves to correct it once and for all, i was thinking abt squezing under there and cutting lines. of course, u can pull the two lines and make the cuts in a more comfortable location.
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