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Old 10-25-2014, 09:34 PM   #1
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water heater anode

Winterized today. We pulled the drain plug on the water heater, it is really long so I think it is actually an anode looking at it. Anyways, it looks corroded already as it has lots of little holes all over it or is this normal? We noticed grey water coming out initially as we unscrewed it, then the water came clear once the plug/anode was out. This is very different than our old trailer. If it is corrosion, any idea why it would have corroded so fast? My 5er has a build date of Feb 2014 and we just purchased in July. Thanks





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Old 10-25-2014, 09:48 PM   #2
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The magnesium rods eat up quick...
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Old 10-25-2014, 09:52 PM   #3
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That's pretty normal for one season. There will only be a wire about the size of an oil dipstick when the anode is gone. At the rate yours is going, it should last 5-10 years i would think.
The crap in the tank is minerals and particles from the anode corrosion/ residue
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Old 10-25-2014, 09:58 PM   #4
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Ok so this is still ok and not in need of replacing?
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Old 10-25-2014, 09:59 PM   #5
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Also we usually leave our drAin plug out of the tank for the winter and replace cone spring. Should we not do that with this type? Is plumbers tApe ok to use on the threads of this?
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Old 10-25-2014, 10:01 PM   #6
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Ok so this is still ok and not in need of replacing?
Correct. You may want to get/make a flush wand and hook to a water hose to flush the gunk out since you have the anode removed.

If you will look in the FAQ section under water heaters, I think Herk has an anode usage chart that shows you the various stages and at what point to replace it.

EDIT: Here you go

http://www.forestriverforums.com/for...aqs-36254.html
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Old 10-25-2014, 10:04 PM   #7
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Thanks gonna go check it out now
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Old 10-25-2014, 10:18 PM   #8
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Also we usually leave our drAin plug out of the tank for the winter and replace cone spring. Should we not do that with this type? Is plumbers tApe ok to use on the threads of this?
We leave ours out too over the winter and flush the tank. I would reuse that anode, as i stated before, the wear rate on yours, it should last for years.
I've heard varying views on the tape, but i was under the impression that it needed direct metal to metal contact with the tank to be of any use as a sacrificial rod....but i might have misunderstood that, but it makes sense.
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Old 10-25-2014, 11:03 PM   #9
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Ok so this is still ok and not in need of replacing?
Indeed, lots of miles left on that one.
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Old 10-25-2014, 11:05 PM   #10
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The magnesium rods eat up quick...
Depends on the water. We have four seasons on a magnesium anode.
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Old 10-25-2014, 11:22 PM   #11
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Ok thanks guys. Still learning g lots of new things different on this fiver from my old tt.
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Old 10-26-2014, 12:01 AM   #12
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If you don't want it I'll take it. LOL If you're going to leave it out, might not be a bad idea to give it a roll in some baking soda. Then just rinse it well before you get going next season.
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Old 10-26-2014, 01:09 AM   #13
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What will the baking soda do?
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Old 10-26-2014, 01:43 AM   #14
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Short story.. helps retain the efficiency of the surface area of your anode so less energy is required to bring your water temps up. Not a major deal, but as long as you've got it out anyway, right? :-)
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Old 10-26-2014, 01:59 AM   #15
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Interesting. I will have to look into doing that.... probably after I get my fiver back from the factory, that way if someone puts it back in I don't have to worry about it.
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Old 10-26-2014, 02:08 AM   #16
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Short story.. helps retain the efficiency of the surface area of your anode so less energy is required to bring your water temps up.
Huh? Totally missed this in RV 101. How about that electro-chemical neutralizing thingy?
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Old 10-26-2014, 05:44 AM   #17
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Huh? Totally missed this in RV 101. How about that electro-chemical neutralizing thingy?
Baking soda is the po'man's version. Since magnesium is electrochemically active, the baking soda helps to dampen the release of electrons as well as absorb ambient moisture and form an O2 barrier.

That was the long story.

It's not THAT big of a deal. It's not like they are really all that spendy to begin with, so longevity isn't so much an issue as efficiency when in use. Didn't mean to make a thing of it. Just one of those little things you pick up along the way from somewhere or other.

If you happen to have it out for an extended period of time. It just takes a couple of seconds to roll it in some baking soda and drop it in a baggie.

You can always just run some steel wool over it before you reinstall it, but that doesn't do much down in the pits. KWIM
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Old 10-26-2014, 05:52 AM   #18
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The back of the packaging for the OE anode states to wrap the threads with teflon tape. I seem to remember the rods actually coming with a small amount of tape in the package, but this may be incorrect. I think I have a new packaged one in the trailer and will take a look later.
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Old 10-26-2014, 07:44 AM   #19
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If you elect to leave it out, I would suggest rolling a pc of paper towel and plugging the hole to prevent critters, etc. from getting in. Wiping the threads with a silicone paste will also prevent the threads from rusting.
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Old 10-26-2014, 07:51 AM   #20
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The back of the packaging for the OE anode states to wrap the threads with teflon tape. I seem to remember the rods actually coming with a small amount of tape in the package, but this may be incorrect. I think I have a new packaged one in the trailer and will take a look later.
Good to know! I couldn't remember. I was just gonna look at my anode when i pulled it out and see what the threads had.
But i usually use pipe dope instead of Teflon tape, just a habit from doing hydraulic line work.
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