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Old 11-10-2014, 06:05 PM   #21
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that is great Herk but it did not show taking it out. So you are saying that every person on this forum is wrapping it backwards? Look at the pic's on the fourm they are all the same it is bunched at the end only pic's don't lie and I know that members know how to put the tape on. Sorry that did not prove anything to me. By the way Herk I do not like your implacations that I'm telling someone wrong as I stated" TO EACH HIS OWN"... PS: I have never had a leak and my threads still look great.
Glenn, from what I see on mine during removal, the teflon tape is not really bunched up, but is what is left on the threads that actually don't make contact with the water heater threads. I wrap the whole anode thread, then screw it in until snug tight. As in all pipes/threads, the tape remains and seals up the very minute space/gaps between the threads of the two mating surfaces....while the excess get's either compressed, cut, or pushed back from the threads. If you just make one pass around the anode threads, that is all that is needed most times.

I'm still not really understanding why you are so adamant about this. It's nothing to get bothered over. I do understand CYA instructions, but with something so simple as a pipe thread, I just wouldn't dare go out on a limb to say this would be one of those.
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Old 11-10-2014, 06:06 PM   #22
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Sorry, but my "hackles" raise when someone pulls out the "I am an expert" card as justification for an opinion.

Just seems self serving and has no bearing on presenting a logical argument. An "expert" would never recommend violating manufacturer's instructions and use "because I said so" as an argument.

I can say that because I freely admit I am no expert.

Claiming "expertness" is what puts you on that high horse and makes you an easy target for snipers!
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Old 11-10-2014, 06:14 PM   #23
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Okay you guy are correct, just leave it at that, I said to each it own and also said that paste is better then tape. But don't tell me I'm wrong because I said either nothing or paste. Also the Suburban also recommended paste, but I do not want that in my water myself. Thanks for both of your input. I just know what the difference is to stop corrosion that's all. Have to have metal to metal.
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Old 11-10-2014, 06:23 PM   #24
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If you do wrap the tape the wrong way it will bunch up, when it is put on right there isn't much left to it because the threads rip it up when you back it out because its doing the same as when you put it on wrong.
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Old 11-10-2014, 06:28 PM   #25
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If you do wrap the tape the wrong way it will bunch up, when it is put on right there isn't much left to it because the threads rip it up when you back it out because its doing the same as when you put it on wrong.
You are correct. Pipe threads are by no means precision cut and have numerous high and low spots on the tread surfaces which is what the tape or compound is designed to fill in the gaps. Have never seen a plumber join pipe without either tape or joint compound.
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Old 11-10-2014, 06:37 PM   #26
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here is a post that makes sense from Vince in 2012, so i'm not the only one as stated..Seeing some anodes near perfect after 12-18 months = something is wrong! Its really called sacrificial anode and is designed to give it self up to surrounding metal.
Does anyone ever use a resistance meter (multimeter) to check center of anode nut to frame? The annode will not work if not grounded. Too much tape or dope could insulate the rod from the frame. ( I guess he is wrong to)
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Old 11-10-2014, 06:57 PM   #27
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here is a post that makes sense from Vince in 2012, so i'm not the only one as stated..Seeing some anodes near perfect after 12-18 months = something is wrong! Its really called sacrificial anode and is designed to give it self up to surrounding metal.
Does anyone ever use a resistance meter (multimeter) to check center of anode nut to frame? The annode will not work if not grounded. Too much tape or dope could insulate the rod from the frame. ( I guess he is wrong to)
He is not saying not to use it, he is saying don't use too much.
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Old 11-10-2014, 07:08 PM   #28
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If you do wrap the tape the wrong way it will bunch up, when it is put on right there isn't much left to it because the threads rip it up when you back it out because its doing the same as when you put it on wrong.
Exactly. Thank you.
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Old 11-10-2014, 07:15 PM   #29
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"too much" optimum words metal still touches tape and are meant to be used sparingly it is meant to act as oil would in an engine keeping thing from rusting in place so you don't ruin the tank threads when removing the anode. If you apply either correctly you will still be able to ck with a meter and get proper reading.
How to Change a Water Heater Anode Rod | Video | This Old House
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Old 11-10-2014, 07:17 PM   #30
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X? on the tape. Been using Teflon tape for years and it does not bunch when applied correctly. Pipe dope is also fine, tape is just cleaner.
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Old 11-10-2014, 07:22 PM   #31
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The camper is brand new this last September. Probably need to replace. We have bad hard water here. Attachment 66182


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That looks pretty good
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Old 11-10-2014, 07:34 PM   #32
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That actually looks pretty good. You have several more months left on that rod in my opinion. I'll try and snap a pic of mine when I get home. I usually replace it when it is about half gone.
I was going to try and get a pic for the OP but my water heater is full and I don't want to drain it as I'm headed out Friday. Sorry, I will snap a pic when I do drain it and if this thread is still active (seems like it will be ), I'll post it when I do.
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Old 11-10-2014, 09:39 PM   #33
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Yours looks a lot better than mine. Looks like you have 80% left. I'd wait and replace it later down the road. See how it looks in a few more months.
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Old 11-10-2014, 09:46 PM   #34
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I am no expert either... NPT or IPS is a tapered thread designed to seal on taper. The thread "lubricants" are partially designed to lubricate the threads during assembly. Many pipe fitter/plumbers use tape and paste at the same time. They make metallic pipe "dope". If you are worried about contact and corrosion at the same time...then use that.


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Old 11-10-2014, 10:00 PM   #35
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So here's a recent story sorta related to this thread

When we brought our trailer home to prepare for our upcoming trip we wanted to clean our water system, including the water heater because of the rotten egg smell we experienced during our past 2 trips - first time we smelled it we had no idea what was wrong, during the second trip around October 10th we figured out the problem (thanks to the forum) but we didn't have the tools needed for the job so we figured we'd wait until we prepare for our next trip which is now.

Well as we begin, DH releases the pressure value and low and behold hot water comes out! Yes, we had actually left the water heater on since our last trip that was over a month ago! Total newbie oversight! Thankfully no one was hurt, including the tank since is was full of hot water.

Wish I had taken a pic of the anode, it was like almost gone even though we just bought the trailer in March 2014 and you can see in my signature that we haven't had that many nights camping. I'm glad I had bought a couple of anodes to have on hand so we were able to replace it. So much scale came out of that tank, yuck! We cleaned the whole system with bleach water, but we're also going to put vinegar through the system, seems like that would do a better job of removing the scale.

And I'm never going to forget to turn off the water heater again when we break down camp. Ever!
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Old 11-10-2014, 10:19 PM   #36
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[moderator edit - removed quote no longer in thread]

Me too. Especially when considering that the OP was just asking opinions about the remaining life of his anode Rod.

BTW - the threads on his anode Rod look prettry dang good to me and it looks like tape was used by the previous installer.
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Old 11-10-2014, 10:25 PM   #37
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Me too. Especially when considering that the OP was just asking opinions about the remaining life of his anode Rod.

BTW - the threads on his anode Rod look prettry dang good to me and it looks like tape was used by the previous installer.
Agreed and it'll probably be good for quite some time providing he doesn't run his water heater for a month straight

You know that commercial with the owl about 'How many licks would it take to get to the center of a tootsie pop', well I can now share 'How many days straight running your water heater in an average of 90 degree weather that it would take to use up your anode rod' and your propane tank too! Not really funny, but I'm thankful everything ended up alright
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Old 11-10-2014, 10:30 PM   #38
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I am no expert either... NPT or IPS is a tapered thread designed to seal on taper. The thread "lubricants" are partially designed to lubricate the threads during assembly. Many pipe fitter/plumbers use tape and paste at the same time. They make metallic pipe "dope". If you are worried about contact and corrosion at the same time...then use that.


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This is a correct statement that supports Glens experience with his anode now if we have a cathode ray tube I can claim to be an expert broadcast engineer...
I have use pipette pipe dope on my anode, lubricates the threads when I didn't have tape handy.
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Old 11-10-2014, 11:08 PM   #39
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These pics were taken when I removed my anode rod to winterize a couple of weeks ago. What you see in the pic is tape on the threads. This is original from the factory. The tape is peeling up a bit but not bunched up or acting as a nut.





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Old 11-10-2014, 11:19 PM   #40
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These pics were taken when I removed my anode rod to winterize a couple of weeks ago. What you see in the pic is tape on the threads. This is original from the factory. The tape is peeling up a bit but not bunched up or acting as a nut.
Looks like it had plenty of metal to metal contact regardless of the tape.

youroo, me thinks galvanic action takes place regardless of whether there is 110v ac available, unless my chemistry teacher lied to me.
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