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Old 11-10-2014, 01:58 PM   #1
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Water Heater anode

The camper is brand new this last September. Probably need to replace. We have bad hard water here. Click image for larger version

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Old 11-10-2014, 02:14 PM   #2
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The camper is brand new this last September. Probably need to replace. We have bad hard water here. Attachment 66182


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That actually looks pretty good. You have several more months left on that rod in my opinion. I'll try and snap a pic of mine when I get home. I usually replace it when it is about half gone.
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Old 11-10-2014, 02:14 PM   #3
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The camper is brand new this last September. Probably need to replace. We have bad hard water here. Attachment 66182


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You have at least 95% left on that rod, that white build up is the junk that pours out your H/W heater. For $12.00 just replace it yearly, it will cut down on the white crud that comes out, that would be the only reason. Yours is still like new but you will not get that white junk off with anything not even a wire brush. I have tried. by the way HI BOMB DOC
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Old 11-10-2014, 02:20 PM   #4
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Glass bead blasting will make it look like new with the exception of the crevices, but the glass beads even clean them out. I clean mine every time I remove it, wrap the threads with Teflon tape and re-install it.
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Old 11-10-2014, 03:07 PM   #5
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I was surprised how it looks for such a short time used. I'll use next year then start replacing every spring


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Old 11-10-2014, 03:51 PM   #6
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Unless your using the water heater all summer long you should get at least 2 summers out of one. Take it out every fall and clean threads and put new Teflon tape on every fall, while its out flush the water heater and clean all the residue out of the water heater .
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Old 11-10-2014, 04:01 PM   #7
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Unless your using the water heater all summer long you should get at least 2 summers out of one. Take it out every fall and clean threads and put new Teflon tape on every fall, while its out flush the water heater and clean all the residue out of the water heater .
I would not put tape on the threads, you want contact with the W/H metal. It will not leak without it, Just IMO....
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Old 11-10-2014, 04:01 PM   #8
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I was surprised how it looks for such a short time used. I'll use next year then start replacing every spring


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Totally not needed.

I don't even clean mine; just close the bypass valves; drain and flush out the tank; tape up the threads and screw it right back in.
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Old 11-10-2014, 04:09 PM   #9
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Totally not needed.

I don't even clean mine; just close the bypass valves; drain and flush out the tank; tape up the threads and screw it right back in.
I only bead blast mine because it only takes about a minute and IMO just exposes the anode better. I agree with the re-taping to insure no leaks. I also smear a little Danco silicone grease on the threads for rust prevention.
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Old 11-10-2014, 04:09 PM   #10
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I recommend teflon tape or oatey great white pipe dope with teflon.
You don't want the anode rusting threads and sticking in there!
It has happened. Even with tape there will be some metal to metal contact
and that's all that's needed.
I put liberal amount of oatey pipe dope on mine every time I drain and
replace it. It still gets eaten away so I know it's making contact.
Just drained and re-installed mine yesterday....
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Old 11-10-2014, 04:13 PM   #11
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My anode was taped when I took it out. I'll take again. I've had issues years ago when I had my first TT to winterize. When several years on a small unit we just had to park.

Thanks for tips. Was going to squeeze in another weekend but seems winter wants to come to southern Indiana


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Old 11-10-2014, 04:28 PM   #12
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Totally not needed.

I don't even clean mine; just close the bypass valves; drain and flush out the tank; tape up the threads and screw it right back in.

Agree totally.
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Old 11-10-2014, 04:33 PM   #13
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my old one wasn't taped and it had rusted in but I was able to get it out. I taped it's replacement and never had a leak and it came out easy.
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Old 11-10-2014, 05:02 PM   #14
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I only bead blast mine because it only takes about a minute and IMO just exposes the anode better. I agree with the re-taping to insure no leaks. I also smear a little Danco silicone grease on the threads for rust prevention.
Of course you would disagree with the tape, but you need metal to metal for it to work correctly. Been putting anodes in a long time
Maybe you should read up on the metal to metal contact for them to truly protect. To each his own, and mine do not leak.
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Old 11-10-2014, 05:09 PM   #15
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The manufacturer states to use teflon tape or sealant suitable for potable water in their installation directions on the back of all their anodes packaging. The pic shown is for an aluminum one, but the magnesiums state the same.

I have also purchased anodes that came with teflon tape in the packaging. All of my anodes have sacrificed themselves accordingly.

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Old 11-10-2014, 05:17 PM   #16
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The manufacturer states to use teflon tape or sealant suitable for potable water in their installation directions on the back of all their anodes packaging. The pic shown is for an aluminum one, but the magnesiums state the same.

I have also purchased anodes that came with teflon tape in the packaging. All of my anodes have sacrificed themselves accordingly.

I agree with the paste, but if you look at your tape once you pull it, it is all at the end as a washer. Many pic's on this web site show that once a person pulls it. it is all just bunched up at the nut end period not on the treads anymore, give me a break, been doing it for years and also professionally for over 20 years. But thanks for your input.
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Old 11-10-2014, 05:26 PM   #17
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give me a break, been doing it for years and also professionally for over 20 years. But thanks for your input.
Glenn, I'm not following your 'give me a break' comment. Are you trying to imply that Suburban (the manufacturer) is wrong?
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Old 11-10-2014, 05:35 PM   #18
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Glenn, I'm not following your 'give me a break' comment. Are you trying to imply that Suburban (the manufacturer) is wrong?
Yes I am I stand by what I said the tape will only from a gasket at the end as you twist it in. Look at some pictures of pulled ones. Where is the tape on the treads themselves when it come out?. Many pictures to look at and it is not needed. Just my opinion, people can do what they want. It's called CYA by Suburban.....
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Old 11-10-2014, 05:39 PM   #19
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Iit is all just bunched up at the nut end period not on the treads anymore, give me a break, been doing it for years and also professionally for over 20 years.
And yet you are still wrong...

Not using Teflon tape or Teflon pipe dope may result in thread corrosion and make removal of the anode more difficult. Recommending someone not follow the manufacture's instructions does no one any good.

If the Teflon tape "bunches up" you are wrapping it on the threads backwards.

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Old 11-10-2014, 05:48 PM   #20
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And yet you are still wrong...

Not using Teflon tape or Teflon pipe dope may result in thread corrosion and make removal of the anode more difficult. Recommending someone not follow the manufacture's instructions does no one any good.

If the Teflon tape "bunches up" you are wrapping it on the threads backwards.

that is great Herk but it did not show taking it out. So you are saying that every person on this forum is wrapping it backwards? Look at the pic's on the fourm they are all the same it is bunched at the end only pic's don't lie and I know that members know how to put the tape on. Sorry that did not prove anything to me. By the way Herk I do not like your implications that I'm telling someone wrong as I stated" TO EACH HIS OWN"... PS: I have never had a leak and my threads still look great. I also said that pipe dope is better then tape. Before you jump on your high horse you should read all the post. Pipe dope still creates contact not the same as tape. Just my opinion, nobody has to listen to me or you that I know of.
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