RV News RVBusiness 2021 Top 10 RVs of the Year, plus 56 additional debuts and must-see units → ×


Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 12-02-2020, 05:07 PM   #21
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2016
Posts: 354
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jt1087 View Post
Hi all,

I have a 2021 forest river fsx Salem 179dbx bought in March this year. I went to winterize it today and when taking the water heater anode plug out of the hot water tank to drain it and it looked degraded - like it had calcium build up - I took a photo and posted below. Anyone heard of it before or what might cause it other than maybe just hard water ? Can I just replace it with a new one or is there potentially an underlying issue to sort out as well?

Thanks in advance for any help !
Mine looked the same the first fall after I bought it when I took it out to drain the water heater for winterizing. That was 4 years ago. Still looks pretty much the same
__________________
Jeff

2016 APEX 215rbk
2016 F-150 4WD 3.55 3.5l ecoboost
jwfrede is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-02-2020, 05:26 PM   #22
Just as confused as you
 
Scrapper's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: south central Wisconsin
Posts: 4,695
Quote:
Originally Posted by jwfrede View Post
Mine looked the same the first fall after I bought it when I took it out to drain the water heater for winterizing. That was 4 years ago. Still looks pretty much the same
The rate of deterioration depends on what minerals and ph your water has and at what concentrations. My tt has been sitting on the same site for 7 years and the anode still looks better than OP's
__________________
Richard & Jill
2014 Flagstaff 832IKBS Classic Super Lite
2018 Silverado 1500 Crew Cab Z71 4WD All Star Edition
Camping since 1989
Car Shredder Op/Tech, Scrap Metal Recycling - retired
I deserve hazard pay when camping with my relatives.
Scrapper is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-02-2020, 06:57 PM   #23
D W
Senior Member
 
D W's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2016
Location: ALASKA (World's Biggest Campground)
Posts: 2,902
Quote:
Originally Posted by cardwellmarty View Post
Have you ever had that to happen? Mine always wears more at the threads, some times to the point l have been concerned with it, l change mine probably sooner than l shoud, especially when it wears at the threads.
Never had it happen to me, but a friend had it happen. Took him about an hour with at least 2 different magnetic probes. The steel rod rusted off jagged so there wasn't a flat surface to put the magnetic tip on. After a lot of cussing he finally got it out. The rod still had close to 50% of pitted aluminum left on it. That's a little hole to work through with a probe trying to find the end of the rod while shining a light in there. It's dark inside that tank. Like working blind.
__________________
'07 K3500 Silverado LT Crew Duramax (LBZ)
2016 Salem 27RKSS
1984 CHEV SCOTTSDALE K20 2GCGK24J0E1XXXXXX (Chevrolet Legends-Class of 2019)
"...exhaust fluid? We don't need no stinkin' exhaust fluid"
D W is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-02-2020, 07:37 PM   #24
Senior Member
 
cardwellmarty's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2017
Location: Alabama
Posts: 499
Quote:
Originally Posted by D W View Post
Never had it happen to me, but a friend had it happen. Took him about an hour with at least 2 different magnetic probes. The steel rod rusted off jagged so there wasn't a flat surface to put the magnetic tip on. After a lot of cussing he finally got it out. The rod still had close to 50% of pitted aluminum left on it. That's a little hole to work through with a probe trying to find the end of the rod while shining a light in there. It's dark inside that tank. Like working blind.
I bet it was a trick to get out, that why if the anode rod gets thin at the threaded end l change it , lol, better than fighting with it fishing it out of the tank.
cardwellmarty is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-02-2020, 09:28 PM   #25
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2018
Location: Raleigh, NC
Posts: 3,560
Non-corrosive water

Quote:
Originally Posted by Scrapper View Post
The rate of deterioration depends on what minerals and ph your water has and at what concentrations. My tt has been sitting on the same site for 7 years and the anode still looks better than OP's
Mine, too. It has been sitting on the same site, year-round, since 2008. It has water in the heater for 8 months of the year, winterized December through March. The original rod still has full diameter with just some surface roughness.

The campground has well water in tidewater Virginia, about 35 miles inland from Virginia Beach. It must be very non-corrosive water.
__________________
Larry

Sticks and Bricks: Raleigh, NC
2008 Cherokee 38P: at Ivor, VA permanently
Larry-NC is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-07-2020, 08:15 PM   #26
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2018
Posts: 12
There's lots of life left in that rod. You could use a brush and knock some of that sediment off, but the rod itself is in great shape.
ObiRich is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-07-2020, 08:30 PM   #27
Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2019
Posts: 48
Cheap to Replace

I probably replace my anode rod ahead of most, but they are so cheap and the water quality where I leave my RV in its mooch dock is from a well and pretty hard and "gypie" (lots of gypsum in the area), even with filters installed.

So I figure since anode rods are also called "sacrificial," then I'm going to sacrifice a rod sooner and hopefully forego water heater problems or water quality issues as well.
MisterVick is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-07-2020, 09:09 PM   #28
Senior Member
 
DouglasReid's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: Maurice, LA
Posts: 3,337
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jt1087 View Post
Thanks all - super helpful. Am new to rv’s ... so much to learn !
Here is another item you should be taking care of on at least an annual basis as far as that anode rod is concerned.

Those white flakes fall off that rod and to the bottom of the Water Heater. They then get sucked up into the water system eventually to clog up the faucet aerators. In severe cases they can clog entire water lines.

Each year when you remove the anode use a tool like this to flush the debris from the bottom of your WH. It will save a bit of grief later.

https://www.etrailer.com/Accessories...hoC9hYQAvD_BwE
__________________
2012 Wildcat Sterling 32RL, Gladiator Qr35 ST235/85R16 Load rating G, TST 507 TPMS w/ Flow-thru Sensors & Repeater, Reese Sidewinder 16K Pin Box, PI EMS HW50C
2008 Chevy Silverado 2500HD CCSB LTZ Diesel, Fumoto Oil Drain Valve, Turbo Brake activated, 39 gal Aux Tank W/ Fuel Pump transfer, Air Lift Loadlifter 5000 air bags.
DouglasReid is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-08-2020, 10:04 AM   #29
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2019
Posts: 324
when i pull my anode rod i scrape off the corrosion, and sand down the rod. keeps the particles from building up in tank bttom. hook a small tube to shop vac VIA duct tae and vacuum out the particles. lubing the threads of rod with what ever lube suits you on top of teflon tape gets the threads conditioned ad easier to reinstall rod after a few removals. water sours so i drain mine often.
Thomas ho is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-08-2020, 10:15 AM   #30
Senior Member
 
DouglasReid's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: Maurice, LA
Posts: 3,337
Quote:
Originally Posted by Thomas ho View Post
when i pull my anode rod i scrape off the corrosion, and sand down the rod. keeps the particles from building up in tank bttom. hook a small tube to shop vac VIA duct tae and vacuum out the particles. lubing the threads of rod with what ever lube suits you on top of teflon tape gets the threads conditioned ad easier to reinstall rod after a few removals. water sours so i drain mine often.
Vacuuming the WH will work just as well as flushing.
__________________
2012 Wildcat Sterling 32RL, Gladiator Qr35 ST235/85R16 Load rating G, TST 507 TPMS w/ Flow-thru Sensors & Repeater, Reese Sidewinder 16K Pin Box, PI EMS HW50C
2008 Chevy Silverado 2500HD CCSB LTZ Diesel, Fumoto Oil Drain Valve, Turbo Brake activated, 39 gal Aux Tank W/ Fuel Pump transfer, Air Lift Loadlifter 5000 air bags.
DouglasReid is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-08-2020, 10:21 AM   #31
Pickin', Campin', Mason
 
5picker's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: South Western PA
Posts: 13,356
Quote:
Originally Posted by D W View Post
X2. I noticed in the OP's pic that deterioration is more pronounced near the threads, almost down to the "wire". It is certainly doing it's job. What you don't want to happen is the rod breaking off and falling into the tank. You'll play hell trying to get it out if that happens.
Quote:
Originally Posted by cardwellmarty View Post
Have you ever had that to happen? Mine always wears more at the threads, some times to the point l have been concerned with it, l change mine probably sooner than l shoud, especially when it wears at the threads.
It deteriorates more near the threads because it is trying to protect that big steel bung it screws into. Since the rest of the tank is porcelain lined (and not bare steel unless some has chipped off) the anode works feverishly near the steel bung.
__________________
_________________________________________
2016 Flagstaff 8529IKBS Diamond Package 5th Wheel-Goodyear Endurance Tires
2017 Ford F-Series SCREW 4x4 - Factory Puck B&W Companion
TST Tire Monitor w/Repeater - Sinemate 3500w Gen.

Days Camped: '18=51 '19=58 '20=110 '21=21
5picker is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 12-08-2020, 04:32 PM   #32
Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2020
Location: Colorado
Posts: 52
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jt1087 View Post
Hi all,

I have a 2021 forest river fsx Salem 179dbx bought in March this year. I went to winterize it today and when taking the water heater anode plug out of the hot water tank to drain it and it looked degraded - like it had calcium build up - I took a photo and posted below. Anyone heard of it before or what might cause it other than maybe just hard water ? Can I just replace it with a new one or is there potentially an underlying issue to sort out as well?

Thanks in advance for any help !
Filter your water intake.
frankhaas is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-08-2020, 04:39 PM   #33
Senior Member
 
Lins's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2016
Location: Yellowknife
Posts: 1,052
Quote:
Originally Posted by D W View Post
Never had it happen to me, but a friend had it happen. Took him about an hour with at least 2 different magnetic probes. The steel rod rusted off jagged so there wasn't a flat surface to put the magnetic tip on. After a lot of cussing he finally got it out. The rod still had close to 50% of pitted aluminum left on it. That's a little hole to work through with a probe trying to find the end of the rod while shining a light in there. It's dark inside that tank. Like working blind.
Ours broke off this fall when I was winterizing, and it was probably only 25% worn. Thankfully it was already out of the tank, but it only took a light accidental bump. It was likely original (2007) so it didn't owe me anything.
__________________
2007 Rockwood 2701SS
2017 Ram 2500 Granite Crystal SAP Laramie 6.7L
2014 Triumph Bonneville. NH Togas, tuned
1953 GMC 9314
1982 GoldWing Interstate
Lins is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 12-08-2020, 04:40 PM   #34
Site Team
 
Mr. Dan's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Grayson County, Texas
Posts: 15,679
Quote:
Originally Posted by frankhaas View Post
Filter your water intake.
Filtering water doesn't help in my case. Always filter; always have sacrificial action.
__________________
SEARCH is your friend!
FR Wildcat 295RSX / GMC Sierra

Nights Camped: '13 = 49/'14 = 74/'15 = 74/'16 = 85/'17 = 110/'18 = 111/'19 = 86/'20 = 108; booked = 32
Mr. Dan is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 12-08-2020, 05:55 PM   #35
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2019
Posts: 2
Anode rod

Sir,
I have a Forest River Windjammer, I have done a bit of research on this and hereís what I did. My anode rode looked very similar to your picture. The info following I received when talking to a Forest River tech. Rep. I bought a 2pk of the anode rod through amazon. I also bought the heater element. I put the old anode rod back in, I filled the 6 gallon HW tank With 4 gallons of white vinegar and 1 gallon of water and let it set for 4 days. I was told you can turn on the HW sys and leave it on about 8-12 hours and it will quicken the process, but I just let it sit for a few days. Then drain it, blow it dry with air, then the HW tank will be cleaned and sanitized. Make sure your valves are in the winterized position. After I drained my tank the old anode rod was pretty much gone, But I already bought a new one. I also looked at the heating element and the vinegar solution had no effect on it, I bought a new one of those as well. Now when I dewinterize it next year, I will rinse it out again a few times and put the new anode rod and element in it. I was also told that if you have a steel HW tank the magnesium anode rod is necessary. Hope this helps Rick
2015 Forest River Windjammer 3025W
Trainaddict is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Tags
water heater, water, heater, anode

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


» Featured Campgrounds

Reviews provided by

Disclaimer:

This website is not affiliated with or endorsed by Forest River, Inc. or any of its affiliates. This is an independent, unofficial site.



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 02:20 PM.