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12-01-2020, 09:13 PM
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#1
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Junior Member
Join Date: Dec 2020
Posts: 3
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Water Heater Anode Rod deteriorating
Hi all,
I have a 2021 forest river fsx Salem 179dbx bought in March this year. I went to winterize it today and when taking the water heater anode plug out of the hot water tank to drain it and it looked degraded - like it had calcium build up - I took a photo and posted below. Anyone heard of it before or what might cause it other than maybe just hard water ? Can I just replace it with a new one or is there potentially an underlying issue to sort out as well?
Thanks in advance for any help !
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12-01-2020, 09:17 PM
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#2
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2019
Posts: 1,401
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Welcome to the forum from New Jersey, Depending on the water quality those rods are designed to give up,You can just replace it next season. Some drain the water heater between trips.
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12-01-2020, 09:18 PM
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#3
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Junior Member
Join Date: Dec 2020
Posts: 3
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Thank you!
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12-01-2020, 09:20 PM
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#4
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2017
Location: Wyoming, Iowa
Posts: 266
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That's what it's intended to do. Looks to me like you have a few more years of use in the that one.
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12-01-2020, 09:20 PM
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#5
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2019
Posts: 1,401
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Apply some teflon tape to the threads on the new rod.
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12-01-2020, 09:51 PM
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#6
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Site Team
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Grayson County, Texas
Posts: 21,587
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chris Pastuzyn
Apply some teflon tape to the threads on the new rod.
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But don’t even install a new anode while this one is still good.
__________________
2015 FR Wildcat 295RSX / GMC Sierra
Nights Camped: '13 = 49/'14 = 74/'15 = 74/'16 = 85/'17 = 110/'18 = 111/'19 = 86/'20 =108/'21 = 115/'22 = 135/'23 = 78; Booked for 2024 = 69
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12-01-2020, 10:01 PM
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#7
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2016
Location: Texas
Posts: 781
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They are supposed to degrade.
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12-01-2020, 10:17 PM
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#8
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Member
Join Date: Feb 2017
Posts: 59
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tuckerdog1
They are supposed to degrade.
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This^
We're on our 5th season with ours and it still has life left in it
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12-01-2020, 10:21 PM
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#9
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Junior Member
Join Date: Dec 2020
Posts: 3
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Thanks all - super helpful. Am new to rv’s ... so much to learn !
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12-02-2020, 12:07 AM
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#10
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2017
Location: North of Seattle, WA
Posts: 17,362
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a suggestion. Using the above attached image I'd replace when the rod reaches 75%. The smaller in diameter the anode rod is the faster it will be consumed. That last little bit can go quick and when it's down to just the center rod electrolysis/corrosion will start in on the inside of your tank.
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12-02-2020, 12:20 AM
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#11
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Site Team
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Northeast Louisiana
Posts: 33,962
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jt1087
Thanks all - super helpful. Am new to rv’s ... so much to learn !
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That's what we are here for, to share experiences and wisdom.
This thread may help and is aimed at new RV owners.
https://www.forestriverforums.com/fo...ts-157524.html
Included in that link above is a reference to our Five(5) different Suburban video guides, one of which explains the anode rod function and replacement.
Here is a direct link to just that video:
Water Heater Series 01: Video 01 - Suburban Anode Rod
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2011 Flagstaff 831 RLBSS
A 72 hour hold in a psych unit is beginning to intrigue me as a potential vacation opportunity.
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12-02-2020, 12:35 AM
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#12
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Just as confused as you
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: south central Wisconsin
Posts: 5,108
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jt1087
Thanks all - super helpful. Am new to rv’s ... so much to learn !
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Though on-demand water heaters don't have anode rods, it's the same with your water heater in your home has an anode rod which needs to be inspected.
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12-02-2020, 02:57 PM
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#13
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Member
Join Date: Jul 2014
Posts: 54
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The picture you posted looks absolutely normal. It's doing it's job. You've still got plenty of life left on it.
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12-02-2020, 03:38 PM
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#14
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2016
Location: ALASKA (World's Biggest Campground)
Posts: 6,759
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TitanMike
a suggestion. Using the above attached image I'd replace when the rod reaches 75%. The smaller in diameter the anode rod is the faster it will be consumed. That last little bit can go quick and when it's down to just the center rod electrolysis/corrosion will start in on the inside of your tank.
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X2. I noticed in the OP's pic that deterioration is more pronounced near the threads, almost down to the "wire". It is certainly doing it's job. What you don't want to happen is the rod breaking off and falling into the tank. You'll play hell trying to get it out if that happens.
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12-02-2020, 03:44 PM
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#15
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2017
Location: Alabama
Posts: 560
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Quote:
Originally Posted by D W
X2. I noticed in the OP's pic that deterioration is more pronounced near the threads, almost down to the "wire". It is certainly doing it's job. What you don't want to happen is the rod breaking off and falling into the tank. You'll play hell trying to get it out if that happens.
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Have you ever had that to happen? Mine always wears more at the threads, some times to the point l have been concerned with it, l change mine probably sooner than l shoud, especially when it wears at the threads.
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12-02-2020, 04:19 PM
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#16
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AKA: 'tiredTeacher
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Richmond, Virginia
Posts: 1,045
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Quote:
Originally Posted by D W
You'll play hell trying to get it out if that happens.
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On a side note. I bought a pair of 18" tweezers. I can't count the times they've saved my butt.
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12-02-2020, 04:31 PM
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#17
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2018
Location: Raleigh, NC
Posts: 9,622
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No worries
Quote:
Originally Posted by D W
X2. I noticed in the OP's pic that deterioration is more pronounced near the threads, almost down to the "wire". It is certainly doing it's job. What you don't want to happen is the rod breaking off and falling into the tank. You'll play hell trying to get it out if that happens.
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No worries about that. The sacrificial part is aluminum or magnesium. The wire down the center is steel and decomposes very slowly, if at all.
A few shards of aluminum or magnesium in the bottom of the heater are not harmful. If it's a concern, just insert the hose nozzle into the anode opening and flush them out while the water heater is bypassed.
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Larry
"Everybody's RV is not like your RV."
"Always take pictures with the button on the right."
"Always bypass the water heater before opening the low-point drains."
Sticks and Bricks: Raleigh, NC
2008 Cherokee 38P: at Ivor, VA permanently
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12-02-2020, 04:54 PM
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#18
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Member
Join Date: Sep 2015
Posts: 79
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The anode is sacrificial and intended to be replaced. They are inexpensive and readily available on Amazon. My dealer stocks them as well. Kind of a pain to install, however, only because it has a tapered thread with a short lead and the cantilevered weight of the anode rod makes it a little difficult to get started without cross threading. I pull mine every winter to drain the tank when winterizing and I always carry a spare.
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12-02-2020, 04:57 PM
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#19
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Member
Join Date: Sep 2015
Posts: 79
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Also, if you pull yours to drain at winterizing it's a good idea to rinse out the tank after it drains because those corrosion deposits fall off an lay in the bottom of the tank.
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12-02-2020, 04:59 PM
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#20
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Site Team
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Grayson County, Texas
Posts: 21,587
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wjrdmr
Also, if you pull yours to drain at winterizing it's a good idea to rinse out the tank after it drains because those corrosion deposits fall off an lay in the bottom of the tank.
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... as stated on post #17.
__________________
2015 FR Wildcat 295RSX / GMC Sierra
Nights Camped: '13 = 49/'14 = 74/'15 = 74/'16 = 85/'17 = 110/'18 = 111/'19 = 86/'20 =108/'21 = 115/'22 = 135/'23 = 78; Booked for 2024 = 69
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